House battery charging issue

tazsport · 07-02-2017, 03:30 PM

We are original owners of a 2006 Itasca Sunrise Class A. We are dry campers. We have two new 12v house batteries and a chassis battery that are maintained (fully charged) on battery tenders when coach is parked at home. In addition to using our GenSet for running the microwave, tv, AC, we use a Honda 2000U portable generator hooked up as shorepower for the tv and what I thought was replenishing the house batteries.

For years we have run the Honda generator through the night with an auxillary 6 gal fuel tank. I was always under the impression the shorepower from the Honda generator was recharging or at least replenishing the house batteries to an exceptable operating level, since we never encountered the drained batteries.

On recent trips, our house batteries become fully depleted after a couple days out, even with shorepower from the Honda generator. I have confirmed that the batteries are recharging when driving and are fully charged when leaving home. So we are starting out with fully charged batteries.

Once the batteries are drained down the refrigerator won't even start with shoreline power or Genset.

Anyone had this issue or something similar ? I admit I'm not fully savvy on the workings of GenSet or how the charging of the house batteries works.

cbeierl · 07-02-2017, 03:39 PM

Sounds like your 45amp converter/charger (located under the fridge, see pages 4 & 5 of the Body, 12 Volt Wiring Installation diagram for your coach) is no longer charging.

I'll leave it to others with more specific knowledge of those units for recommendations on testing/fixing the problem.

Jim_HiTek · 07-02-2017, 07:42 PM

With a low cost digital meter, you can measure the voltage across the house batteries, they should measure 12 volts from ground to the last battery. Now turn on the generator or plug into shore power, and you should read 13.x volts.

If you do not, than either you have a bad connection, or your 'converter' under the refer is not working. Check for blown fuses, corroded wires, loose connections, and have the unit tested at a shop once you've eliminated any other simple issues.

Many times, it's as simple as a bad (corroded, broken) connection.

SuperGewl · 07-03-2017, 03:31 AM

So did this issue come up after the replacement of the batteries? As others have stated check ALL the battery wiring and the fuses and breakers on the converter.
Good luck and let us know the outcome.

twinboat · 07-03-2017, 03:54 AM

If you accidentally crossed the cables while connecting the new batteries, even for a second, you could have blown the reverse connection protection fuses in the converter. The converter is what charges the batteries while running your generator.

Do you recall a spark while connecting your new batteries ? That would be a sign.

Rockwood27 · 07-03-2017, 11:36 AM

I agree with some of the previous posts that you may have tripped the fuse on the converter. You should also check the water level in the batteries. The original equipment, single stage converter can boil the water out of the batteries. I replaced mine with a Progressive Dynamics multi-stage unit. For extended dry camping you can replace the 12V batteries with a pair of GC-2 6V batteries. I was able to squeeze in 4 6V batteries in the box under the steps, but I had to relocate to chassis battery. With four batteries, you might have to up the charger to 60 amps.

nothermark · 07-03-2017, 12:02 PM

When you stop and shut down do the lights work inside before you add the generator?

If they do the storage relay is working. Any fuses in the wiring are also working. That does not check the converter output.

If they do not work the relay is open. Toggle the switch to see if it closes. You should hear the clunk and see the lights come on.

If you can do that and still have a problem you have a lot of good places to start.

tazsport · 07-03-2017, 05:20 PM

Thanks for all the good ideas on where to start. To answer SuperGewl question about this starting after replacing batteries, no. I'm planning to go through all the connections possible. Batteries are fairly new and charge up fine via driving and trickle charging. Water is up to the top of the plates. I plan to do the voltage checks suggested. I have located the converter and as mentioned it's under the frig. It should be a plug and play install. Since the coach is 10 yrs young and I'm suspecting the issue is with the converter itself. It's a Parallax 7400, which has been discontinued. I'll keep you posted.

cruzbill · 07-03-2017, 05:25 PM

As Twinboat sez; check the fuses on your converter. If that doesn't get it and you need a replacement, here's one that you simply slide the old one out and slide the new one in-good multi-stage charger converter.

4600 Series Upgrade or Replacement Power Converters

siggy · 07-03-2017, 05:32 PM

I CISCOVERED THAT MY BATTERIES WERE LOW ON WATER LAST FALL AND THEY DON'T GET A GOOD CHARGE,DAH!! I ADDED ABOUT 2 1/2 GALLONS TO THEM AND GOT LUCKY THEY WEREN'T BURNED UP. They need service like anything else.

tazsport · 07-03-2017, 08:07 PM

Ok, did the voltage testing suggested by Jim HiTek. 12 volts with generator or shore power. Also, the two fuses on the converter look good and no breakers have been tripped. Did a visual check of all connections and nothing abnormal there either. I'm going the route of replacing the converter/charger. Will post results when I have installed the new converter/charger.

Journey39n · 07-07-2017, 03:27 AM

It really sounds like the converter. Even if your house batteries are very low, once hooked to shore or generator power, the converter should power all the 12v systems in the coach, as well as charge the batteries.
If you have checked all the circuit breakers in the coach, plus the circuit breaker on the converter, and unplugged and re-plugged the converter into 120v, and still no 12v to the coach, it does indicate a bad converter.

tazsport · 07-07-2017, 09:49 AM

Agreed Journey39n, I did a voltage test on the converter 12v output side with the positive going to the battery disconnected and the coach plugged into shore power. This reading should be 13.x, but was almost non-existent. After researching and shopping around, I ordered a replacement/upgraded converter from Bestconverter.com, Boondocker #1245C. The original factory converter is a Parallax 7445, which has been discontinued. In this case, I believe it made sense to go to a newer model upgraded converter. I will post the final results after installing the new unit.

cydonia-jacc · 07-11-2017, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tazsport

Agreed Journey39n, I did a voltage test on the converter 12v output side with the positive going to the battery disconnected and the coach plugged into shore power. This reading should be 13.x, but was almost non-existent. After researching and shopping around, I ordered a replacement/upgraded converter from Bestconverter.com, Boondocker #1245C. The original factory converter is a Parallax 7445, which has been discontinued. In this case, I believe it made sense to go to a newer model upgraded converter. I will post the final results after installing the new unit.

I'm curious. Did this fix your problem? I'm having similar issues. The generator and shore isn't charging properly. The chassis isn't charging my two month old coach batteries either. The only way I can charge the coach batteries is with jumper cables connected to the chassis battery. I changed my converter about 5 or 6 years ago. Maybe I have more than one issue.

nothermark · 07-12-2017, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cydonia-jacc

I'm curious. Did this fix your problem? I'm having similar issues. The generator and shore isn't charging properly. The chassis isn't charging my two month old coach batteries either. The only way I can charge the coach batteries is with jumper cables connected to the chassis battery. I changed my converter about 5 or 6 years ago. Maybe I have more than one issue.

Have you checked that the storage relay is toggled on and that there are no other problems that prevent charging?

It's simple enough to check the battery voltage with the cord unplugged then plug in the RV and see if the voltage goes up. If it does not then then check it at the converter output. IF they are all the same you have a converter problem. If not, you have another problem.

ladagobago · 07-15-2017, 06:10 PM

WOW - batteries that need that much water must be boiling to much. I replace the crap that winnegago installed for a charger and installed a progressive charger with the wizard. It REALY IS THE BESt. My batteries (4 six volt) deep charge golf cart batteries use about 1 gallon a year to top them off. I look at them every six months. With the winnebago garbage I was burning up batteries.

Thank you progressive.

Jim_HiTek · 07-15-2017, 06:22 PM

For those who might not want to run out and buy a new converter...you can add mineral oil (3-in-1 oil) to the battery cells...2 oz per cell...to reduce the escape of water. This is a 100 or more year old trick endorsed by Edison himself. I've used it for years in my old '94 Bounder successfully.

What it does is make the bubbles from overcharging slooooowly rise to the surface of the cell and when they reach the surface, they burst with less energy. This help prevent acid from escaping into the air above the plates, and slows it's migration out of the vents, which slows the corrosion of your terminals. It also reduces the loss of water.

Instead of having to check my batteries once a month or once every two months, with the mineral oil, I could go six months between checks, not worry about corrosion, and seldom had to add more than a few ounces of water.

Jim_HiTek · 07-15-2017, 06:24 PM

For those who might not want to run out and buy a new converter...you can add mineral oil (3-in-1 oil) to the battery cells...2 oz per cell...to reduce the escape of water. This is a 100 or more year old trick endorsed by Edison himself. I've used it for years in my old '94 Bounder successfully.

What it does is make the bubbles from overcharging slooooowly rise to the surface of the cell and when they reach the surface, they burst with less energy. This help prevent acid from escaping into the air above the plates, and slows it's migration out of the vents, which slows the corrosion of your terminals. It also reduces the loss of water.

Instead of having to check my batteries once a month or once every two months, with the mineral oil, I could go six months between checks, not worry about corrosion, and seldom had to add more than a few ounces of water.

ladagobago · 07-16-2017, 06:08 AM

Adding mineral oil to batteries to stop excessive outgassing does not solve the issue of a poor control over battery charging cycles. A good three stage charge and the ability to equalize the battery are the features of improving the conditions of the battery. You could also put special battery caps (water miser) on the them but that still does not correct the poor quality of the charger.

Okierambler · 07-16-2017, 12:31 PM

Had an issue with my coach batteries not charging, on my 2012 Winnie 30T, checked the out put of the converter at the batteries and no out put,, finally worked the cut off switch numerous times which exercised the solenoid and ahhhh ha, I now had 13 volts output. I am going to buy a solenoid and next time it happens I will replace the solenoid.