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Old 02-13-2017, 09:51 AM   #15
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My house batteries were reading 10.8 volt when I bought this RV from a consignment dealer. Was never able to restore them to proper operation. Your batteries were at 7.8 volts. I don't think it's practical to try to restore them. They're ruined, IMO.

As others have suggested, disconnecting the grounds is the easiest way to deal with all the parasitic loads on most RVs. Easy, and no question that it works. Fully charged (and healthy) batteries can last for months without the charge getting below 11 volts. Cold won't harm a healthy battery because the acid prevents freezing above -40F. I've stored my RV in Fairbanks, Alaska disconnected without problem over a winter.
'02 Winnebago Journey DL, DSDP, 36' of fun.

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Old 03-06-2017, 01:55 AM   #16
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Hi, I had a similar problem, I put an RV solar panel on the roof of the storage unit and ran it into my battery compartment with a quick disconnect plug. Get the biggest 4 ft solar panel or two. works great! mybatteries are always at 12.8 volts all the time..good luck Dave
Winnebago 2014 Sightseer 33C 35ft Cindy and Dave..
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Old 03-06-2017, 03:20 PM   #17
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Just a note. If you have wet batteries and you discharge them in cold weather they will freeze. Probably not a great idea to charge frozen batteries. I would also inspect the case for damage.

I don't think the master kill switch kills everything. Pretty sure that the carbon monoxide and smoke sensors still operate and there may be a few other low current robbers, especially if some after market items were added improperly. Steps also don't work on the switch but IIRC most use the chassis batteries for steps.

If you are going to store inside with no power I would do it after batteries are fully charged and then remove the main power cable to the battery bank (or inline fuse if you have one). Should be able to last 6 months without a charge and removing them is not exactly fun.
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Old 03-06-2017, 05:37 PM   #18
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One thing you can do to charge faster, since you have 4 batteries, is swap out your converter charger for a larger one, this will reduce the "bulk" charge mode time.

Bulk charge is when the converter charger is putting out 14.4 volts to get the batteries their initial charge to 80%, and charge rate is limited by the maximum amps the converter charger output stage can put out.

Once to 80 % all good converter chargers drop to "absorption" charge mode, output of 13.6 volts. At 13.6 volts amps will drop to finish the battery charger more slowly to prevent battery gassing.

Winnebago OEM is typically 55 Amp max output. When I doubled the batteries as part of upgrading for boondocking, I also swapped out the converter charger to a PowerMax PM3-100, $ 169 , that has 100 Amp max output.

Another thing I did that you can do is place the converter charger very close to the batteries so you don't have any power loss between it and the batteries. You also have to size the wire between the converter charger and the batteries to handle the max current, for 100 Amp this is Wire Gauge 2 or better yet use Wire Gauge 0.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:23 PM   #19
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Be carefull to not get too big a charger.

This is from,


Most flooded batteries should be charged at no more than the "C/8" rate for any sustained period. While some battery manufacturers state a higher maximum charge rate, such as C/3, higher charge rates can result in high battery temperatures and/or excessive bubbling and loss of liquid. ("C/8" is the battery capacity at the 20-hour rate divided by 8. For a 220 AH battery, this would equal 26 Amps.)

TheConcorde and some other AGM*batteries are a special case - the can be charged at up the the Cx4 rate, or 400% of the capacity for the bulk charge cycle for a short period. However, since very few battery cables can take that much current, we don't recommend you try this at home. To avoid cable overheating, you should stick to C/4 or less.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:44 PM   #20
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Rick Fox it is very helpful if you could tell us what model and year your coach is. It sounds to me you you have 6 AGM batteries you have a Tour. If so you need to check how your inverter charger is setup. You should be setup for AGM2 batteries and if you apply the C/8 you need to set your charger to 75%. If it took 48 hours to recharge them you were probably hooked up to a 15 amp or 20 amp source. I am sorry to say if your batteries were as low as you said they have been damaged and will probably need to be replaced. You can see how they are after the complete charge.
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Old 03-07-2017, 03:59 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by RickFox View Post
Even though both house & chassis battery switches were disengaged when I leave the mh, the house batteries have now run down. Chassis batteries are fine.
I'm not at all familiar with your coach, chassis or electrical system, but had the same problem on my gas-powered coach, though mine was the chassis battery. (Both coach and chassis batteries have a lot of parasite drain, items that you would never guess are hitting those batteries even when using the factory disconnect switches.) I installed a BEP marine disconnect switch and it solved the problem... I have not had a dead battery since. -RT
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Ricardo Tegarini
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Workhorse Chassis W20
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