Hello Anne and Erik,
There is a rather cheep micro-switch inside the housing that has ˜Faston' (spade type push on) connectors connected to it. Odds are that either the ˜Fastons' have come loose or the micro-switch contacts are bad. Go ahead and open it up (make sure all power is disconnected, generator off, inverter off) and check for loose wires or connectors. If all seems in order you can check the micro-switch contacts with a volt/ohm meter.
I've had two failures of this transfer box. First time was a ˜Faston' that fell off the switch. Squeezed the ˜Faston' to hold tighter on the spade for the first fix. The second time was bad contacts on the micro-switch. Replaced with a brand name switch for the second repair and now keep this box as an emergency backup. I have a schematic of this box but I haven't entered it into CAD and created a .PDF of it. I see a project around the corner. I'll get it posted as soon as I can.
Always worried about connecting to a 50 Amp. pedestal with an open neutral (very, very bad), so I purchased and installed this unit.
Automated Engineering Corp.
AC Transfer Switch "AECS with ESP"
p.n. 10040A our cost for a demo unit was $549.00
from RT Enterprizes -- Ron 818-292-1268
This thing uses a microprocessor to qualify the incoming line to ensure that the ground, neutral, and both 120 Volt AC lines are good. If not, it won't energize the contactors and gives an error code that describes the fault. It has already saved our bacon once which I'm sure more than paid for the unit. A park had a 50 Amp. service with a high resistance neutral (caused usually by terminal arcing from not being tightened enough). Good luck.
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Have Fun!! Mark & Donalda 04 Horizon 40WD no TOW 90,900+ miles and counting
Triumph Bonneville & Susuki S40 on the back
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