Fresh Water Leak - Page 2

MutinyGuy · 12-29-2014, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grtharris

MutinyGuy, For future reference there is a access panel behind the water heater with about 6" to 8" clearness between the frame and the heater compartment wall.
I just looked at mine and there is a screw missing and the panel is not down tight in the lower left corner, so another fix to do when it warms up.
I would for sure let the a dealer take care of it.

Hi Grant,
Thanks for the note...I crawled under the coach and looked and there is no access panel from what I can see...no screws at all...the only way I can see that there is access is to pull the side panel off where all of the low pt drains, winterization, and hwh bypass is located...once you pull all that off then you can unscrew the side panel and gain access to the rear of the hwh...if it was not under warranty I would take a look...
We are headed to Lk Havasu for a few days at a friends house and I contacted 3t's rv service who are an authorized WGO service location. I have an early appt on Wed hoping they can at least ID the leak location...since it is New Years Eve they are only open half a day...

MutinyGuy · 01-02-2015, 07:53 AM

Looks like I found a leak hopefully THE leak. It is the hose/fitting that comes out of the water pump....so now I have to remove one of those weird clamps that goes around this braided hose and get some other type of clamp...any suggestions?

BFlinn181 · 01-02-2015, 08:50 AM

If you are talking about clamp rings on PEX tubing, it isn't reusable and a special tool is needed to clamp them, often you can borrow or rent the tool, buying one is very expensive. If it is PEX tubing, look at SharkBite fittings, available at Home Depot and other plumbing supply stores. If the braided hose is stainless steel braid, You might just look for a replacement line with fittings on it.

grtharris · 01-02-2015, 08:58 AM

MutinyGuy The clamps on the braided hose are single use clamps remove it with a pair of wiring cutting pliers and replace it with a small SS worm gear clamp (you can find them at any hardware or auto parts store). I like to use the ones that are 1/4" wide the bigger ones smash the hose fitting if you are not real careful.

MutinyGuy · 01-02-2015, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

If you are talking about clamp rings on PEX tubing, it isn't reusable and a special tool is needed to clamp them, often you can borrow or rent the tool, buying one is very expensive. If it is PEX tubing, look at SharkBite fittings, available at Home Depot and other plumbing supply stores. If the braided hose is stainless steel braid, You might just look for a replacement line with fittings on it.

The hose is the typical white braided hose you see....think all I need is a small hose clamp...now I need to figure out how to remove the band clamp...maybe pry it apart?

BFlinn181 · 01-02-2015, 09:10 AM

You can try prying it apart, just be careful not to cut the hose. If there's any slack, you could cut the hose and use a screw clamp. If you have a Dremel tool a cut off wheel would also make short work of removing the band. Also if it's loose enough to leak you might just gently pull and twist the hose and pull it off, then the ring can be removed more easily.

jk_and_dog · 01-02-2015, 06:10 PM

Several treads lead me to drain the hot water heater by opening the relief valve and allowing all water to drain. Close the relief valve and drain valve and refill. Hot water tanks have a tendency to loose the top air space and when the water heater reheats there is no place for the expanded water to go except to drip from the relief valve. The above draining and refilling fixed my mysterious water leak after fighting the issue for 3 years. This procedure is now done a quarter basis and everything is still tight. good luck with issue and let us know if you figure out your problem.

BFlinn181 · 01-02-2015, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jk_and_dog

Several treads lead me to drain the hot water heater by opening the relief valve and allowing all water to drain. Close the relief valve and drain valve and refill. Hot water tanks have a tendency to loose the top air space and when the water heater reheats there is no place for the expanded water to go except to drip from the relief valve. The above draining and refilling fixed my mysterious water leak after fighting the issue for 3 years. This procedure is now done a quarter basis and everything is still tight. good luck with issue and let us know if you figure out your problem.

If you remove the drain plug from the bottom front of the tank then open the relief valve, the water will drain out. If it's a Suburban, replace drain plug with a new plug and anode. If it's a Atwood, the nylon plug has no anode. After the plug is in, open the relief valve and turn water pump on. When water starts coming out the relief valve, allow the spring loaded valve to snap shut. An air space from the top of the relief valve to the top of the tank will leave enough air to absorb any expansion from heating the water. Allowing the relief valve to snap closed usually will dislodge any deposits on the valve seat and prevent leaks. If it still weeps, open and let snap shut a few times and see if it seats. If it doesn't, you could try treating it with vinegar or just replace the relief valve, they do weaken over time.

jerichorick · 01-03-2015, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MutinyGuy

Looks like I found a leak hopefully THE leak. It is the hose/fitting that comes out of the water pump....so now I have to remove one of those weird clamps that goes around this braided hose and get some other type of clamp...any suggestions?

Please post a picture. If this is a crimp clamp fitting it can easily be replaced with a pex or Sharktooth fitting that can be found at Lowe's or HD for a few bucks.

If you use diagonal cutters you can cut the clamp off. Use a hair drier to soften the braid tubing enough to get it off the old fitting. Remove the fitting and bring it with you. I hope the tubing is a bit long. It would be best to cut the used end off (which is an option over removing the clamp) with a utility knife. Just keep the cut clean and square as possible. Follow the directions in the new fitting package. Use the tubing insert.

A screw clamp is an option but the pex fittings are so much more secure. They must have started using the clamp fittings to reduce coast. But, if not done accurately, they will leak.

Keep us posted.

Rick Y

BFlinn181 · 01-03-2015, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Please post a picture. If this is a crimp clamp fitting it can easily be replaced with a pex or Sharktooth fitting that can be found at Lowe's or HD for a few bucks.

If you use diagonal cutters you can cut the clamp off. Use a hair drier to soften the braid tubing enough to get it off the old fitting. Remove the fitting and bring it with you. I hope the tubing is a bit long. It would be best to cut the used end off (which is an option over removing the clamp) with a utility knife. Just keep the cut clean and square as possible. Follow the directions in the new fitting package. Use the tubing insert.

A screw clamp is an option but the pex fittings are so much more secure. They must have started using the clamp fittings to reduce coast. But, if not done accurately, they will leak.

Keep us posted.

Rick Y

The OP did keep us posted, with a photo yesterday morning. 23 hours, 25 minutes earlier.

nothermark · 01-04-2015, 05:48 AM

FWIW If those are the band clamps I think they are you are dealing with stainless steel. Most wire cutters are softer than the band. Use a cutoff wheel or pop the tab apart with a cold chisel if you can get to the overlap and if it will pop.

jerichorick · 01-04-2015, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

The OP did keep us posted, with a photo yesterday morning. 23 hours, 25 minutes earlier.

So I missed them. Is that worth insulting me for? Give me a break.

jerichorick · 01-04-2015, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nothermark

FWIW If those are the band clamps I think they are you are dealing with stainless steel. Most wire cutters are softer than the band. Use a cutoff wheel or pop the tab apart with a cold chisel if you can get to the overlap and if it will pop.

It looks like (in the picture I was so rudely reminded of) there is enough hose to simply cut it. The Sharkbite products are great and easy to use. I wouldn't fool with trying to release that clamp. (The last ones I use were copper.) With a short bit of hose in hand the OP can do a fit test when buying the repair replacement.

MutinyGuy · 01-05-2015, 01:30 PM

Quick Update:
I have an appt next week at a RV dealer down here in AZ. But meanwhile I put a sponge under the water pump fitting that was dripping and that seemed to take care of that issue for now but I was still feeling dampness in the back of the water compartment...so I turned on the electric hwh and went for a hike. When I came back this is what I found in the water compartment:

http://youtu.be/zPnMiEFgvfM

BFlinn181 · 01-05-2015, 01:41 PM

Have you tried tightening the white ribbed fitting just above the leak? It could be loose enough to cause the leak. Other possibility is that it's not a loose clamp but a cracked fitting, that black one right behind the leak. This is a different location from the first photo at the water pump? I'd suggest cutting the clamps off and taking the fitting to a good plumbing supply shop or Home Depot. Match up the leaking connector and buy enough screw clamps to replace all the ring clamps you had to cut off and fix it once and for all, with no trip to a repair shop needed.

None of my posts were meant to be insulting or rudely posted. Just pointing out the OP had done as was asked.

MutinyGuy · 01-05-2015, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Have you tried tightening the white ribbed fitting just above the leak? It could be loose enough to cause the leak. Other possibility is that it's not a loose clamp but a cracked fitting, that black one right behind the leak. This is a different location from the first photo at the water pump? I'd suggest cutting the clamps off and taking the fitting to a good plumbing supply shop or Home Depot. Match up the leaking connector and buy enough screw clamps to replace all the ring clamps you had to cut off and fix it once and for all, with no trip to a repair shop needed.

None of my posts were meant to be insulting or rudely posted. Just pointing out the OP had done as was asked.

Yes I did tighten both fittings up and that seemed to stop the leak! Thank goodness!!! I have just sucked up most of the water that was sitting in the compartment and in this nice dry warm AZ sun it should dry it out fairly quickly...and yes different location from the first leak on the water pump...will monitor it to make sure everything is ok...geesh

BFlinn181 · 01-05-2015, 03:31 PM

Glad you solved the problem and reported back. Those plastic connectors often have a rubber gasket in them, over time and vibration they can weep a bit. Be careful of over-tightening them, I've had larger diameter ones crack when tightening too much.

jerichorick · 01-06-2015, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Glad you solved the problem and reported back. Those plastic connectors often have a rubber gasket in them, over time and vibration they can weep a bit. Be careful of over-tightening them, I've had larger diameter ones crack when tightening too much.

I'm glad you mentioned this. I was just going to post the same caution. These fittings are non-forgiving if overtightened. Shacking, as we often do, down the highways and byways of our travels will loosen things over time. I frequently have problems with the sink drain fittings coming loose. This is just a part of RVing. MutinyGuy is in the same learning curve we have gone through. He is in a better place than many of us because he has found the forum early on. Good for him!

osgoor · 04-26-2015, 07:52 PM

I hope no one minds reviving this thread as I have a similar leak problem... actually two. One is easy to get to and is an elbow in the bypass and water pump lines. The tough one seems to be coming from behind the water heater. I can reach far enough in the bay to be able to touch the small platform behind the water heater and it is wet. I looked under my coach and see an oval panel cover and water is dripping from that location. Is that an access panel? If I have to remove the water heater, how hard is that? I feel I can fix most anything if I have the right knowledge.

Thanks!!

The coach is a 2005 Itasca Suncruiser (Winnebago Adventurer) 37B

Jbmsr · 04-26-2015, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osgoor

I hope no one minds reviving this thread as I have a similar leak problem... actually two. One is easy to get to and is an elbow in the bypass and water pump lines. The tough one seems to be coming from behind the water heater. I can reach far enough in the bay to be able to touch the small platform behind the water heater and it is wet. I looked under my coach and see an oval panel cover and water is dripping from that location. Is that an access panel? If I have to remove the water heater, how hard is that? I feel I can fix most anything if I have the right knowledge.

Thanks!!

The coach is a 2005 Itasca Suncruiser (Winnebago Adventurer) 37B

I just accessed the hot water compartment of a 2006 Itasca Suncriuser. I removed a panel about 12"s x24's held on with screws. It was under coated. One of the fittings found inside could be leaking. I climbed under the coach behind the drivers slide and found the panel.

Jesse