Electrical question please - Page 2

Mudfrog · 09-13-2016, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbeierl

The 50-amp to 30-amp adapter should should internally connect the single 30-amp leg coming in to both legs of the 50-amp plug, so everything should get power.

Was guessing that but wanted to make sure,, Thanks!

mel s · 09-14-2016, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbeierl

I'm guessing SuperGewl meant to say ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) rather than ABT.

cbeierl
Thanks

I'm "guessing" that also.... (but I would like "know" if SuperGewl meant ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch).... or ABT, (whatever that is).

S Bradley · 09-15-2016, 07:55 PM

The 12V part of this problem has been addressed.
Check 120 AC service from the house exterior circuit it is usually protected by a GFI or GFCI in the circuit. Check to see if you have AC at the outlet, if not check in the garage to see if a GFI has popped they are usually in the same circuit. If so unplug everything from the circuit, then push the reset button. If it resets try plugging into the AC outlet it to test for power. If you don't have power go to the home circuit breaker panel check for a breaker that may need to be reset. Some GFCI are in the panel.

Hope that helps.

Luckiest Dreamer · 09-15-2016, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S Bradley

The 12V part of this problem has been addressed.
Check 120 AC service from the house exterior circuit it is usually protected by a GFI or GFCI in the circuit. Check to see if you have AC at the outlet, if not check in the garage to see if a GFI has popped they are usually in the same circuit. If so unplug everything from the circuit, then push the reset button. If it resets try plugging into the AC outlet it to test for power. If you don't have power go to the home circuit breaker panel check for a breaker that may need to be reset. Some GFCI are in the panel.

Hope that helps.

Chances are it is the GFI that is popping. What I would do is run an extension cord directly to the refrigerator and by pass everything else. If you need to charge the batteries do the same for them by running another cord to a charger and that should do it.

TheBelchers · 09-18-2016, 02:37 PM

Ok. Sorry took so long to get back to everyone. I appreciate all your support and answers...I have been told that it is a transfer switch that is not operating properly.... I am waiting to get in to have it repaired under warranty of course Do dealers charge any fees for warranty work. Like shop charges etc....any one heard of such things. I feel warranty is warranty and all work should be covered including any fees. Just wondering.

JBP · 09-18-2016, 03:08 PM

There is no charges for warranty work. At least i have never been charged for it.

TheBelchers · 09-18-2016, 05:43 PM

I didn't think so but wanted to see if anyone had ...thanks.
Unrelated ....just returned from Hampton beach nh. Foliage is just around the corner. Beautiful quiet weekend at the beach. Get out there if you can.

TheBelchers · 09-18-2016, 06:49 PM

I believe now I'm a victim of the faulty automatic transfer switch mentioned in recall

SuperGewl · 09-19-2016, 03:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbeierl

I'm guessing SuperGewl meant to say ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) rather than ABT.

ABT Automatic Buss Transfer so yeah basically the same thing. But I know someone will chime in and say NO it isn't.

SuperGewl · 09-19-2016, 03:47 AM

OP after the repairs are done go behind them and make sure every thing is good and tight.
Basically open the ATS and put a screw driver to all of the connections also make sure that the cable hold downs are tight so that you don't get any movement in the cable when pulling it out of the electric bay.
I had an ATS catch fire due to the screws being loose after a Warranty shore power cable replacement. It cost me 3 days at the campground, 2 days in a motel, $300 for a new ATS and another $200 for a replacement Shore Power cable. I'm just lucky I caught the fire right as it was starting.

Oh yeah make sure all power is OFF and the coach battery switch is in Disconnect when doing the check. Safety first.

TheBelchers · 10-06-2016, 07:15 AM

quick update: RV is in for repairs on ATS switch...apparently it failed....new one on the way from Winnebago/dealer......hope to have our coach back in a week or so.....thank you to everyone who replied....glad it failed before it caught on fire etc....everyone should check theirs thanks again.....

JBP · 10-06-2016, 02:23 PM

Did they explain why it failed?

TheBelchers · 10-06-2016, 08:19 PM

They haven't as yet. I will discuss once the work is done.....I will give you an update then.

narampa · 10-06-2016, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clay Smith

The control board in for the refer is powered by the 12 volt coach system, so for the refer to function on 120 volts ac you must have the 12 volt system on also.

I agree mine won;t work without the main power solenoid engaged.
This normal.

TheBelchers · 10-30-2016, 06:27 AM

good news!!! after having the recall on my transfer switch completed, I'm back in business, full power......it only took a month for them to complete the repairs and now the camping season is winding down here in the northeast. unfortunately we won't be able to snowbird it this year (relative health issues) but we may be able to sneak out locally for another few weeks at least.....the dealership had originally suggested that i would have to pay a service fee for the repairs but they quickly reversed that comment and the repairs and recalls were done at no charge......on the road again
the Remsbeckers
2016 Winnie Vista LX 35F-Jeep Wrangler

godddard · 11-08-2016, 10:00 AM

For what it's worth, I had the recall on the transfer switch done also, when the coach came back the switch wouldn't transfer on generator power, , the shop had for some reason turned off the generator circuit breaker, so, check all breakers and switches.

2015 Itasca Sunstar 30 T and 2013 210 Roadtrek
Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

S Bradley · 11-09-2016, 12:06 AM

Do you have a power management system such as (EMS-PT50C) if not it is something I use (mine is a 30amp) but protecting all that
expensive electrical equipment is extremely important.

I even put it on when using mine at home just to make sure, even on the 15amp service.

Glad everything worked out.

LarryW21 · 12-17-2016, 06:22 PM

Interesting info from all. Learned mucho.

wa8yxm · 12-18-2016, 09:29 AM

Took them a month? WOW.. When my ATS failed it took them less than one hour... Of course I did open the access panel for 'em (5 minutes).

So you know the suspect list for "no power from 15 or 20 amp outlet" is as follows
Outlet (Is there power to the outlet) if an outdoor or wet area outlet (Garage) is the GFCI tripped.

Bad adapter,, Sometimes there are two of those.

Then we get into the RV.

Next, both normal houe outlets 15 or 15/20 amp, and the common TT-30 RV outlet, all 120 volt, So sayign "Plugging into 110, or 120 volt" is basically meaningless,, It' sa 15 or 15/20 amp outlet.

HOW TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE

This is 20 amp, Neutral is on the left =|
This is 15 | | (note the neutral is longer)

This is 15/20 |- | (the neutral is "T" shaped)

but you can say 15/20 or "normal house outlet" please do not say 120 for that's how RV's get blown up.. Folks think the 240 volt dryer outlet is for RV use.. it's not, trust me.