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Old 02-17-2014, 07:39 PM   #1
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Dreaded water heater check valve repair....

Just completed the check valve repair. Hot water flow had dropped to a trickle so I had to dive in. On our 37B Adventurer the WH was behind the right front wheel. The access was through the inside wall behind the water pump. It was only possible to reach it with one hand as I didn't have any skinny grand kids available. I removed the water pump and the slide cover that helped some. I then used my Harbor Frieght Multi-tool saw to enlarge the plywood wall the pump is mounted to. I marked the blade at 3/4" so as not to get into the gas line behind the wall. It is not too hard but a 1" deep socket for the check valve is a life saver. The check valve was very tight so get ready.

Sure enough the plastic poppet and spring had shifted so I pushed them out as I blow out the system to winterize and do not require the check valve. I reinstalled the valve body with some teflon tape and it's good to go.

If yours hasn't been a problem I would recommend getting a 1" deep socket because every time I mention this problem there are several people that have had the issue.

Good luck,
Dave
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:32 AM   #2
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It sounds like the check valve is not needed, but is only installed by Winnebago to meet code. The check valve on my hot water line to the kitchen sink had a slow drip and finally became a major leak. I tool the whole thing out and replaced it with a braided stainless steel water supply connection. Did the cold water at the same time. With all that, I still like to turn off the rv external water supply if we are going out for a few hours.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:51 AM   #3
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The check valve on the inlet is to stop hot water feeding back into the cold water piping and creating a hazard under certain conditions
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Lee View Post
The check valve on the inlet is to stop hot water feeding back into the cold water piping and creating a hazard under certain conditions
Yes it is there to prevent backfeeding and a scalding hazard from developing.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:14 PM   #5
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So now I understand the need for the backflow prevention on the hot water heater, but is it really necessary on the hot and cold water lines to the sink?
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:18 PM   #6
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The check valve on the hot side is to prevent anti-freeze from filling the WH during winterization. It is not needed if the coach is winterized by blowing out the water lines and only adding anti-freeze to the traps. It's been years since I had to winterize, but that method worked well for me.

Dave
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:19 PM   #7
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Check valves

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davel View Post
The check valve on the hot side is to prevent anti-freeze from filling the WH during winterization. It is not needed if the coach is winterized by blowing out the water lines and only adding anti-freeze to the traps. It's been years since I had to winterize, but that method worked well for me.

Dave
I did the same thing this weekend, remove the checks valve internals and reinstalled them. You would think they could have come up with something better than the cheep white plastic junk...
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Old 07-10-2014, 04:47 PM   #8
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08 Ellipse

The hot water heater started to develop a vibrating sound when a hot water tap was opened or the toilet was flushed. I replaced both cold water in and hot water out checkvalves. Still had a vibration noise with the hot water tap(toilet noise was solved). I then replaced the new checkvalves with another brand of checkvalve.... same result.


I then gutted the old checkvalves and reinstalled them. This has cured the
noise problem.


Has anyone had this experience with these made in China junk valves ? Anyone know were there may be better quality valves?
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