Hello Tom. Since this was your first time having the water system winterized, it's good having the "big picture" on what they likely did (or should have done) at CW.
WATER FILTERS:
First--they removed water filters. You likely have one whole-house filter in your water bay, and you probably have a second one inside your refrigerator if you have a residential refridge that makes ice. If they did not remove your fridge filter, it's now full of pink RV antifreeze and needs to be replace (you will never get the pink stuff completely out of it). If they did remove it, there is probably a plug in place of where the filter goes. Either way--you need a new filter for the fridge... but don't install it yet! You may have a third water filter under your kitchen sink, possibly an "RO" unit, but these are less common. You will need to replace the whole-house filter too, but not until you are absolutely certain that you have ALL of the pink RV antifreeze fluid flushed out of the system.
WASHER?
If you have a clothes washing machine, they probably used pink fluid in that too. Mine does not have any sort of filter, but it's worth noting that it should have pink fluid in all of the lines. I would make sure to run a couple of cycles (without clothes) to flush out all of the pink stuff.
HOT WATER TANK:
Usually people and businesses do NOT put the RV antifreeze fluid in hot water tanks because it is very difficult to get it all out. Instead, they remove a small nylon threaded plug at the bottom of the hot water tank to drain all of the water out of it. Typically they do NOT re-install this plug to allow any additional water to drain out. Find that plug... you will need it! Go ahead and install it back in the hot water tank, but DO NOT turn the valve that allows water to flow to your hot water tank yet. This valve may be in your water bay (typically), or may be by your hot water heater. You don't want to introduce any pink RV antifreeze into your hot water heater, so do not open this valve yet. ALSO--DO NOT turn on the hot water heater! It will be empty, and turning it on before it is full will burn it up or worse.
UNDERSTANDING WATER INPUTS:
Water gets into your lines in two, possibly three ways. First--from your fresh water tanks. You fill the tanks, they feed the water pump. Second--from the "city water" connection that you typically connect to campground water supply. You connect the hose, it feeds the water pump. THIRD--You may have a small hose that is somewhere in the water bay that was plumbed in there just for the sole purpose of introducing RV antifreeze into your water lines. If you have this, there will also be a valve to turn it on/off. This is a handy feature--it allows you to dip this small hose into a gallon of antifreeze, and then turn on your RV water pump, which will suck the fluid into your waterlines. This prevents you from having to fill up your fresh water tank with pink RV antifreeze. If you have this, it is also a handy way to introduce some fresh, clean water into your system to flush out the pink RV antifreeze. See my procedure below.
DE-WINTERIZE PROCEDURE:
I have only had to de-winterize once so far, but here's what I did, and will repeat in the Spring:
(1) Keep filter plug in the refrigerator in place.
(2) Unscrew the whole-house filter housing and dump out any pink RV antifreeze, then put it back in place WITHOUT a new filter... that comes later. (No need pumping that stuff through the pipes!)
(3) Screw the plug back into the hot water heater, but keep the valves in the "bypass" position so that no water will be introduced into the hot water tank yet. Verify that the hot water elec and gas switches are in the OFF position.
(4) Have 2 or 3 gallons of fresh, clean water in a bucket or in gallon jugs handy. I start to introduce fresh water into the RV through the winterization kit that I described above. I do this only so that ALL of my hoses are clear of RV antifreeze fluid. I insert the "sucking" hose into a bucket or gallon of water, then turn on my RV's water pump.
(5) I also connect a freshwater hose from the city intake to a clean water supply, like at a campground, but I don't turn this on just yet.
(6) Allow the pump to suck in some freshwater until it stops pumping, then turn on my water-bay hose to start draining pink fluid. I don't know if this stuff is environmentally safe, so I try to minimize contact with mother earth. While this faucet is draining, I will have to switch over my water supply to a second or possibly a third gallon.
(7) After a couple of gallons of fresh water have been pulled via the winterization hose, I consider that clean and close the valves... then turn on the city water. In other words, I switch over from feeding water to the RV from the winterization kit, to feeding it water from the city water inlet.
(8) One valve at a time, while on city water, I turn on each faucet until I see no more pink fluid. I turn on the cold side first, then the hot, and maybe back to cold again. Then I move to the next faucet.
(9) Don't forget your shower, and if you have a washing machine, run a rinse cycle or two. Flush the toilet a time or two if you want, but this is completely optional, since there's no way for that pink fluid to ever get into your drinking supply.
(10) Meanwhile... your drains are functioning properly and this pink fluid and water mixture is going into your black and gray tank. No sweat.
(11) WHEN I AM CONVINCED, that there is absolutely no pink antifreeze in my system, I will then turn the hot water valve from "bypass" to "normal operation." In my rig, this begins to fill up the hot water heater with fresh, clean water.
(12) Since the hot water heater was filled with air before water, I open up any hot water spigot to allow the air to escape, and the tank to fill. Then I move from one hot water faucet spigot to another to drain out air until I get a consistent water flow. At this point it is safe to turn on the hot water heater if you want to.
(13) Next I will PARTLY fill up my RV fresh water tank, turn off the city water, and proceed to draw water from the RV fresh water tank too. If they winterized properly, there should be no pink fluid in the tank itself, but sometimes there is still a wee bit in the hoses/valves. Flush that out too.
(14) With all of these steps, the pink stuff should be gone...
(15) This is a good time to sterilize your water lines using a weak bleach solution or a commercial RV water sterilizer product of your liking. Follow procedures per directions, or your google/youtube searches. There's lots of info on how to do this out there..
(16) FINALLY, when your water lines are clear and sterilized, insert a new whole-house water filter, and a refrigerator filter if you have one.
Even with all of these steps, somehow I think the water still tastes a little funky. Not bad, but just a little weird. I end up switching out the two filters in a month or two, which is way early and premature, but by then it seems to produce perfectly tasting water.
Also--16 steps sounds like a lot, but really, you can get through this in a leisure afternoon, sipping coffee or whatever beverage you enjoy during the process
The water sterilization takes the longest because you should wait a while to allow the bleach or other solution to kill whatever germs are in the system. Different products require different wait times, but I typically allow the water to sit in the lines overnight for this. Since you'll be camping, that's not reasonable... maybe you can wait and do that step another time.
Good luck!! Sorry for the long post...