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Old 10-19-2015, 12:25 PM   #1
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Converter questions

Had an issues this past weekend with my 12V house power. Was on shore power but it appears my converter or something related stopped providing 12V and house battery charging. House batteries were providing 12V but started to drop in voltage. I have 2 deep cycle 12V.

I think I have the Magnetek 7445 45AMP but need to confirm that. Got home late. I had AC power to the outlet under the stove where the converter is plugged into. No hum or fans working on converter. While on shore power and pressed the battery disconnect I lost all 12V power.

1. Do I just need to test for 12V output at the converter provided the converter is getting AC input. If no 12V output then the converter is bad?

If the converter proves bad. I have read through many past threads. What is todays latest thoughts on brands and models to look at? The two I have seen are the PD and Iota. I would like to keep my converter where it is so size is important to clear the stove drawer.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:37 PM   #2
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Got 120v in, no 12v out? No circuit breaker tripped or fuse blown on or in the converter? Then bad converter.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:55 PM   #3
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Thanks! Will test 120v in, converters fuses, and converter output with my Fluke tonight.


House batteries charged normally on way home via engine alternator.
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Old 10-19-2015, 02:38 PM   #4
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Convrerter in our old coach had two (I believe) 30 amp fuses on back of inverter. I have had fuses look good after pulling then when put back in all worked. Dont know if these connections get dirty but that seemed to cure the issue
I also found where the ground wire had come loose once from the grounding buss.
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Old 10-19-2015, 03:01 PM   #5
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After reading all the stories about Magnetek overcharging and people buying new batteries, I went with the Progressive Dynamics PD9255, with the remote Intellipower indicator. I now look at my water levels every 6 months and add maybe a cup of distilled water every year, between 3 batteries.
Very happy with the system.
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Old 10-20-2015, 05:32 AM   #6
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Converter questions

On the output side look down the line because a lot of these units has thermo fuses resettable. They will wear out and give you this problem. If they are bad any auto parts has them for $3. Had to fix mine and a friends with this issue.


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Old 10-20-2015, 06:24 AM   #7
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I pulled my converter last night. I was getting 120V where it was plugged into the coach. The connections and ground were tight. I checked the 2 30AMP fuses on the unit with my Fluke meter. They were good. I took the converter to the house and plugged it in. I was getting 13.6V DC output.


It's a WFCO 45AMP WF-8845 unit. My 2004 Winnebago Adventurer parts manual show converter 123058-02. I googled that and came up with a Parallax 4445. I never replaced the converter. Does it sound like unit came with a WFCO new? It has a RCMS interface on the side and labeled Remote Charge management system. I can't find a manual or much about this model online. Assume its discontinued. I'm wondering if its failing under load.


I might install the unit and connect to shore power with the batteries disconnected and see what happens. Over the weekend I had no 12V in the coach when I did this.


If the converter is good. I'll have to look downstream from the unit.
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Old 10-21-2015, 07:16 AM   #8
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I put the converter back in. With the battery disconnect switch off at the entrance and on shore power I have no 12V in the coach Not sure if its wired such that you need the batteries engaged or no 12V even from the converter.


I measured output at the converter with batteries disconnected. I'm only getting about 12.2 volts. The day before out of the coach it was putting out 13.6.


I'm starting to think the converter is bad.
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Old 10-21-2015, 11:30 AM   #9
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I picked up a PD9260 converter. Its an upgrade from my old unit and I will see if that solves the issue as well.
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Old 10-22-2015, 07:10 AM   #10
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Installed the new PD9260 converter. I was on shore power and as soon as I plugged the converter in I had 12V power in the coach even with the battery disconnect switch off. That wasn't the case with my original converter. I engaged the batteries with the battery disconnect switch. The PD9260 pendant showed boast charge for awhile and has backed off to normal mode. I'm showing 13.6V at the batteries presently.


I think my issue is resolved with the new converter.
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:23 AM   #11
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A typical converter failure mode is to fail under a load no load the output reads proper a few amp load and the output takes a dive

Please do not toss the defective unit in the trash
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJINTF View Post
Please do not toss the defective unit in the trash

Where should one take defective electronics for disposal? Salvation Army doesn't want trash like this....
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:58 AM   #13
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High School or JC with an electronics department would love to have them

Converters are SIMPLE to repair with a parts cost typically less than $2.00 and 30 minutes of time the unit is a good as new

I hate to see the local dump aka transfer station get these things

I collect them, repair them and then give them away to folks in need
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