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Old 09-10-2019, 09:31 AM   #1
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Cole_Hersee 24213 Boost solenoid

I received my Cole_Hersee 24213 to replace the defective solenoid in my 2004 Winnebago Adventurer 35U. The Cole_hersee has 4 terminals but none are marked. I know one of the smaller terminals needs to go to ground. Does it matter which of the two smaller terminals is ground. I didn't come with any documentation. Also, does the chassis/house battery terminals matter?
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:03 AM   #2
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Did some searching online. It appears I would connect my LR wire to one of the smaller terminals. And run the other small terminal to a good ground.

And just swap over the house and chassis battery connections to each of the larger terminals on the solenoid.
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Old 09-10-2019, 05:31 PM   #3
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A four wire has two large terminals for the line in and line out (battery 12vdc). The two small terminals are to engage the switch (contacts inside the relay) by pulling the contacts closed. If you have only one small terminal it is for the positive that pulls in the solenoid. The second one has been hooked up internally to the housing of the solenoid. Find the ground with a mater and stick it under a mounting screw.
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Old 09-11-2019, 01:36 AM   #4
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OP is correct, hook existing small control wire to either small terminal and run a short jumper (16 gauge with proper terminal ends will be fine) from the other terminal to one of the mounting bolts.

Caution, do not loosen the innermost nuts on the large studs, and do not allow the studs or those nuts to turn. This would disturb the terminals inside and with them out of alignment they may not make good contact.

Charles
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Old 09-11-2019, 04:17 AM   #5
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I just installed the same thing in my 2004 35u last week. The small terminals are interchangeable. One is 12v + the other is grounded.
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Old 09-11-2019, 06:07 AM   #6
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Thanks all. I sort of figured the smaller terminals were interchangeable since they are not marked. I put my Fluke ohm meter on both terminals to the solenoid body. No continuity. So neither of the small terminals is grounded to the body of the solenoid. The reason you need to run a wire from one of the small terminals to ground.
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Old 09-12-2019, 06:26 AM   #7
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Installed and working. Thanks all!
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Old 09-16-2019, 07:04 AM   #8
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On those the terminals should have numbers on them 1 through 4 and the norm is:


1 - Main Power/Line In

2 - Switched to Ground (Actuator/ElectroMagnet)
3 - Constant Power to Actuator/ElectroMagnet
4 - Load




Many folks switch the power to the Actuator Coil however this can lead to premature failures of either/both the switch and the relay when in continuous use.

For momentary use you can switch power to 2 and have a constant ground on 3.

In certain severe service conditions you can even feed constant power to a motor/device and connect its ground to 4 and then connect 1 to ground so that the relay is switching the ground instead of the load which can increase the life of the contacts.
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:05 AM   #9
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I looked over the Cole_Hersee 24213 very close before installing. None of the terminals were labeled or marked.
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Old 09-16-2019, 09:14 AM   #10
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NeilV, isn't the purpose of the relay to be continuously ON while the engine is running? Why should continuously energizing the relay lead to premature failure? Am I misunderstanding your information?
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Old 09-17-2019, 10:38 AM   #11
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The 24213 is 200 amp continuous duty rated and is powered thru the small coil terminals by the vehicle, and also by the "boost" switch on the dash, if needed. The two small coil terminals are interchangeable and it makes no matter which one is used for actuating power and which is used for ground.

The 24213 will last the life of the motor home.

Charles
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:31 AM   #12
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I took my old Trombetta boost solenoid apart to look inside. I can see why it failed but it did last a long time.
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Old 09-21-2019, 07:57 PM   #13
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80 amp rated, so it gets overloaded nearly every time you start up the engine if the batteries are low, and plain copper contacts.

24213 is 200 amp rated (continuous) and has tungsten plated copper contacts to eliminate a lot of the arc burning issues.

Should last a lifetime.

Charles
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Old 10-07-2021, 11:22 AM   #14
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If I can jump in with another battery mode solenoid fail - with a twist...

1. RV is a 2008 WB Aspect 26A on a Ford V10 Chassis.
2. Had this solenoid fail a couple days ago, 2500 miles from home in the middle of a month long road trip. At least it failed in a family members driveway...
3. Figured out the problem, and tried finding a solenoid. It is still really hard finding things in these Covid times. Local (in a small NH town) NAPA could not find a Cole Hersee 24213 ("not available anywhere in the region"), but they did cross it to a suitable NAPA ST90. They found one in Boston, and over-nighted it here. The ST90 is 110A rated continuous, which is still higher than the 80A I found listed for the original Trombetta.
4. Removed defective solenoid, replaced with the new, fired up the engine, and the coach battery was indeed charging off of the alternator. Cool.
5. The family wanted to go for a ride, so we loaded up and headed out via a small RV park where I could top up the propane. Drove 20 miles (without stopping) pulled up to the park office to advise we wanted propane, went to move the RV... nuttin. Gauge lites worked, but no starter engagement.
6. Puttzed with OBD codes (P1000 - generic smog system failure), checked starter relay fuse, computer fuse, removed the coach battery connection to reset the computer, nuttin.
7. Just when I was ready to call a tow truck, a Mechanic from the RV park came by. He first jumped the started solenoid at the starter - the RV fired right up. OK then, starter is good...
Then he proceeded to check all the fuses - and the ignition switch fuse was bad! This was spite of (most) of the dash lights remaining functional. Changed the fuse, and it started right up.

It is not a coincidence that the ignition switch fuse is also where the power for the Battery Mode Solenoid comes from.

In review... I installed the new 4-post solenoid, it tested fine, we started and ran the RV 20 miles, and then after turning it off - or maybe upon the restart - the ignition fuse blows???

One of the last things I did before the Mechanic showed up was to pull the 12VDC power that feeds the Battery Mode Solenoid from the ignition switch. At this point I am hesitant put the relay back in operation; but at least now I have a nice sized fuse connection...

The factory "flyback diode" (to prevent over-voltage spikes on removal of power) does appear to be in place; but I have no easy way to test it. But fuses function due to over-current conditions - not transient high voltage.

While a pita, as long as we stay at places every 3rd day or so that have power - or we decide to run the generator to charge the house batteries - we can continue without problems. Would be nice though to figure this out though.

Ideas? Or maybe this was indeed just a coincidental time for that fuse to blow?
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