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Old 04-08-2008, 06:53 PM   #1
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Anyone save me a headache trying to decypher the dwgs ?

Seems as though the only time my coach batteries will charge from the engine alternator is if I hold the aux start sw on.

How does Winnie do (or not do) this ? Solid state battery isolator -- relay ? And where is it ?

I am in Seattle and it is a bit cold and wet to be tracing the circuit right now.

Tnx,

ReM
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:53 PM   #2
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Anyone save me a headache trying to decypher the dwgs ?

Seems as though the only time my coach batteries will charge from the engine alternator is if I hold the aux start sw on.

How does Winnie do (or not do) this ? Solid state battery isolator -- relay ? And where is it ?

I am in Seattle and it is a bit cold and wet to be tracing the circuit right now.

Tnx,

ReM
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:38 PM   #3
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Hi Dick,

About 2 seconds after the engine starts, 12 volts gets applied to the Auxiliary Start Relay from the engine. This ties coach and house batteries together so that they all charge. Problem is, the relay made by Trombetta is designed for 12 Volts DC and when 13.4 volts is applied, it gets very hot to the point of discoloring the coil wire. I have talked to Trombetta about this design error in the past but I don't think they have done anything to correct it so far.

The other issue is the contacts. I have had one relay go bad because the contacts burned. I cleaned them and got it working again. Not easy to do since rivets have to be drilled out and replaced with small bolts.

I also modified the coil circuit by adding (I seem to remember) 3 ohms of resistance. This allows the relay to work in its normal voltage range without getting so hot.

After a search, I was unable to determine where your relay is mounted but it's there somewhere. Once you find it, see if 12 volts is being applied with the engine running. If it is, then the house batteries should have the same 13.4 volts that the chassis batteries have. If not, then the contacts of the relay are probably bad. You can either replace it with a new one that you should be able to obtain from a Winnebago dealer or if you would like you can order the standard copper contact or the better silver contact relay direct from Trombetta. Here is the information.

Trombetta 262-251-5454
Tie Contactor
Copper contacts 114-1211-010-03 (Winnie PN)
Silver contacts 114-1200-020 (Trombetta PN)

If there is no voltage with the engine running, then you either have a problem with the Freightliner relay that powers up the Aux. relay or some problem with the wiring. If that is the case, I can only suggest taking it to Freightliner. They have schematics of the chassis wiring that I don't have. If you would like to try tracking it down, there are links to the Winnebago schematics here in this forum. Or you can use this one.

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:30 AM   #4
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dick Morse:
Hi Mark--

Now that's a thorough response! If I can't fix it with your info it probably doesn't need fixing

Since the aux start relay does work from the dash switch I expect the coil is still OK. (BTW I find a diode or two in series with the coil is a good way to drop the voltage.)

Suspect maybe a problem with the small relay or circuit driving the aux relay.

Tnx,

ReM </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:30 AM   #5
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Great explanation my Mr Transistor.

Just to add to his comments, on our previous Journey 36G the solenoid that closes automatically to charge the coach batteries from the engine was located on the coach front firewall. After opening the hood, you should see a rectangular metal panel secured by 4 1/4 turn fasteners in each corner. Once you remove that panel, you will find the Freightliner fuse and relay panel along with the battery disconnect relay and start relay.

You can test that relay both with the engine off and running to insure it is closing properly
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:55 AM   #6
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On my 04 GAS coach I had a problem with a blown fuse. This was interconnected with the steps and the alarm light that shows for the TV Antenna That is a 15 amp fuse and was blown, replaced and the circuit started charging.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:01 PM   #7
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My rig didn't have the feature to charge the house batteries from the alternator and charge the engine batteries while plugged in to shore power, so I removed the battery parallel solenoid, and installed a Blue Seas automatic charging relay.

This is a really neat system, as it has a built-in logic board which monitors many different conditions, and in the automatic mode, will charge both sets of batteries when they need it. It will not allow either chassis or house battery to overcharge, and can be set to "OFF" so it is effectively removed from the system, and can be held in momentary "ON" while starting either the generator from the chassis battery, or engine from the house batteries if needed.

Installation was a simple swap, with the exception of removing the original dash-mounted "Parallel" switch, and replacing it with a ON-OFF-Momentary switch. Here's a few photos, if they post:





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Old 04-09-2008, 01:27 PM   #8
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Uh-Oh CaptBill,

Another must have item!
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:32 PM   #9
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Isn't it interesting that they run SEVENTY FEET of cable for a 6' run from alternator to batteries?
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