Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-13-2016, 04:55 AM   #1
Winnebago Watcher
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 4
Bay Heating Issues

Hi All,

We have a 1996 Adventurer 34 RQ and work is forcing us to winter in CT. I placed a remote temp sensor in the wet bay and the numbers don't look promising. I have placed a small 200 watt heater in the compartment and it helps, but I don't think it will keep up.

The brochure indicates heated bays, but an email to Winnebago came back with a reply that the heating was passive from the coach living area into the plumbing areas. Except for opening the bathroom cabinet, I don't really see how warm air from the living area would make it to the bay.

Does anyone know how the bay heating is supposed to work?

Thanks!

Rick and Jessica
kb1flr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2016, 11:47 AM   #2
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Palisade CO
Posts: 895
My 96 Warrior had two dryer hose like ducts coming off the furnace. One went to the front drivers side compartment and the other went to the service bay. That bay was open to the waste and fresh water tanks.
__________________
Clay WA5NMR - Ex Snowbird - 1 year, Ex Full timer for 11 years - 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N Workhorse chassis. Honda Accord toad.
Clay L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2016, 07:06 PM   #3
Winnebago Master
 
DancinCampers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On the Road Westward
Posts: 711
Do you have a grill (not the LP return air) on your shower pedestal or in the hallway? A small fan in that location will move air into the basement area.
__________________
Dan & Sharon & Kasey (Our Yorkie Puppy (12 Yrs Old) On the Road (2012 Journey 36M, 2006 Jeep Liberty)
USN-Ret ('65-'93) Fulltimers, Class of 2012
DancinCampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2016, 10:45 AM   #4
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,653
The Winnie "heated bays" is as ClayL describes ...only the lp furnace provides that heat and you cannot see the "hose" unless you open up the compartment walls. I see one when I remove the panels in my wet bay. The wet bay normally has a thin plastic floor vs the thicker floors in other bays. I sprayed the outside of the bottom with 2-3 coats of undercoat material. That helps some. Then I put a 60w "can" light in the compartment when in below freezing temps. Monitored by a wireless thermometer, that bulb keeps the bay in the 40's or better. I can't imagine needing a space heater to do the job.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e TRADED OFF JUL 2023 / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2016, 11:30 AM   #5
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,080
As mentioned the propane furnace supplies the heat. I believe the ducts that feed the floor registers also have outlets that allow heat into the storage compartments.


It's essentially the same system used today. Both our 2001 and 2013 Adventurers are able to keep the bays above 32*when outside temperatures are in the low 20'sand the thermostat is set at 55*


We use this type of thermometer to monitor the bays.
https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...FU4dgQodfBwDrg


One sensor is in the wet bay, a second is by the fresh water tank, and a third measures the outdoor temperature
__________________
Hikerdogs
2013 Adventurer 32H
Hikerdogs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2016, 06:14 PM   #6
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 962
Here is a related thread

Follow this too
skigramp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2016, 03:05 PM   #7
Winnebago Master
 
Jim_HiTek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 1,174
Yeah, there's usually a floor type vent or two that steals some air from inside and drops it down into the wet bays. If Winnie says yours is passive, than that means forced air from the furnace isn't being sent there. But there's an open vent somewhere and the cold air from inside the RV sinks down into the bays. Cold air sinks, but the cold air from inside the house will be probably 10-20F, or more, warmer than outside air.

Park your RV where the afternoon sun will hit the wet bays. Every day. Don't park in the shade, under cover, or where you can't be sideways to a southern exposure.

What I'd do is get some of that bubble insulation with the foil front and back. Cut custom pieces for the wet bays trying to insulate those walls and openings as best I could. While making them easily removed so I could dump occasionally. (I dump once every 1 to 2 weeks). And then I'd have a 100 Watt light bulb in each bay as well.

Also cut pieces of that bubble insulation for every window in the house.

Since you likely get snow, you might want to surround the RV with hay bales. And pile show up on top of them and against the RV where you can. Sheets of that foam insulation (that blue stuff) can be cut to insert into the wheel wells. And you can use it to block off the front windows, front and drivers and passenger's windows. If you don't need the front chairs, put it in there floor to ceiling behind them and watch a small TV in the rest of the space. Those forward entertainment cabinets are often under insulated. And the windows allow lots of cold to seep in.

It's best if you have lots of heating tape. Wrap around the drain valves. Wrap around the drain hose too. Leave the drain hose unconnected but capped at the house end, and stuffed into the sewer at the other. Only connect it when ready to dump.

Water is only used to fill your onboard tank. After that, drain the hose and store it in a heated area so it's flexible. Going to all the trouble to insulate and heat the hose so it can remain connected all the time usually ends badly for people. The water spigot does need to have heat tape on it.

Lease a 100 gallon propane tank and make sure your local service company will come to you and fill it. You may have to plumb it into your system yourself or hire someone.

Get yourself a Little Buddy propane catalytic heater. That lil dude will heat your house extremely well. Even at -10F. But it produces H2O and needs oxygen so a window always needs to be open. Plus they're not very easy to control the temp on. Sort of a back up system. Uses much less propane than your onboard furnace. And yes, you can have them indoors. They don't produce hardly any CO2.

I stayed in my RV in Fairbanks, Alaska until it was 20F during the day, and in the teens at night. But when it started dipping into the -10s during the day, I rented a cabin.
__________________
'02 Winnebago Journey DL, DSDP, 36' of fun.

Visit my RV Travel & Repair Blog at : https://chaos.goblinbox.com
Jim_HiTek is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
heat, heating


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Floor heating vent on 35A John & Sandy Winnebago General Discussions 8 06-06-2006 01:30 PM
New 400 Cummins Over heating!!! Lucchese1 General Maintenance and Repair 8 07-21-2005 07:52 PM
Heating Problem J Stemler General Maintenance and Repair 8 04-25-2005 02:35 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.