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Old 07-28-2019, 02:35 PM   #15
Winnie-Wise
 
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Some questions about how the testing is working may help as there are times when we are looking at things but missing. Not to say that we are better than anybody else but there are times when just a different set of eyes (or thinking) can see it different.
When you are testing 12 volts on the ground side of the battery, are you putting the probe on the post itself os on the clamp on the post?
This is a small point but if it is the cable corroded and not making, you get a different answer. I like to look at the post and find 12 volt and then to make sure , I may also look at the clamp. If the post says 12 and the clamp doesn't, clean the clamp.
If we are talking about a ground missing, forget the tough stuff like fuses and such as they will just confuse the issue as grounds should never have fuses in the line.
If I'm getting the correct read on what you are telling us, it has to be down to the big finger sized ground cable from the battery and they usually go pretty straight to the frame as a ground.
They are so big, they rarely break if they are the original item and not been cut off and new ends clamped on, etc. Just too big and thick to break often but it is a real good chance that it is corroded at the post as it is right next to the battery acid.
I kind of left some things off the drawing, to keep it simple but when you are plugged in, the power comes in on the AC line, to the converter which makes 12 volt DC and feeds it to the things that need it and through things like the lights and to a ground. That ground is usually connected to the frame. But when you disconnect the AC cord, the power has to come out of the battery, through the 12 volt stuff like lights and to the ground where it is connected back to the battery to make a full circle or circuit. When things work on AC but not battery, we don't need to look at fuses and such because they are the same used for DC coming from the converter or DC coming from the battery.
That is true for this case but not something that other type items/different RV might have. So if you are finding 12 volts on the ground lug of the battery, there can't be ground there so it has to be lose or open between the battery and ground.
Check to be sure what we are saying is what you are actually doing as we can often get confused if I'm not reading what you are saying correctly.
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Old 07-28-2019, 07:57 PM   #16
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Did you check the fuse in the line from the camper to the battery?
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Old 07-29-2019, 04:25 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Agashi View Post
Did you check the fuse in the line from the camper to the battery?
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Apparently there is a tiny “reset switch” inside a junction box, on the left side of the A-frame.. the owners manual doesn’t talk about it.. thankfully there are some friendly campers out there!
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Old 07-29-2019, 06:06 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Morich View Post
Some questions about how the testing is working may help as there are times when we are looking at things but missing. Not to say that we are better than anybody else but there are times when just a different set of eyes (or thinking) can see it different.
When you are testing 12 volts on the ground side of the battery, are you putting the probe on the post itself os on the clamp on the post?
This is a small point but if it is the cable corroded and not making, you get a different answer. I like to look at the post and find 12 volt and then to make sure , I may also look at the clamp. If the post says 12 and the clamp doesn't, clean the clamp.
If we are talking about a ground missing, forget the tough stuff like fuses and such as they will just confuse the issue as grounds should never have fuses in the line.
If I'm getting the correct read on what you are telling us, it has to be down to the big finger sized ground cable from the battery and they usually go pretty straight to the frame as a ground.
They are so big, they rarely break if they are the original item and not been cut off and new ends clamped on, etc. Just too big and thick to break often but it is a real good chance that it is corroded at the post as it is right next to the battery acid.
I kind of left some things off the drawing, to keep it simple but when you are plugged in, the power comes in on the AC line, to the converter which makes 12 volt DC and feeds it to the things that need it and through things like the lights and to a ground. That ground is usually connected to the frame. But when you disconnect the AC cord, the power has to come out of the battery, through the 12 volt stuff like lights and to the ground where it is connected back to the battery to make a full circle or circuit. When things work on AC but not battery, we don't need to look at fuses and such because they are the same used for DC coming from the converter or DC coming from the battery.
That is true for this case but not something that other type items/different RV might have. So if you are finding 12 volts on the ground lug of the battery, there can't be ground there so it has to be lose or open between the battery and ground.
Check to be sure what we are saying is what you are actually doing as we can often get confused if I'm not reading what you are saying correctly.
Thank you so much for your information! I will definitely learn how to use the meters! I did figure out what was causing my issue. A tiny reset switch, inside a junction box under my frame. It is so small I missed it the three times I looked.
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Old 07-29-2019, 08:39 AM   #19
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Thanks for the report. Definitely not a very nice looking job they've done. On the second, getting used to using the meter will be a big help as time goes on as it was kind of clear that something about testing and answers were not coming out right. Not a big thing to miss something but getting into using a meter and going on a step by step process can get a lot of things figured out---just takes time.
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:12 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Celtic74 View Post
Thank you so much for your information! I will definitely learn how to use the meters! I did figure out what was causing my issue. A tiny reset switch, inside a junction box under my frame. It is so small I missed it the three times I looked.
Do you have an AGM battery? We found out these batteries are causing that reset button to need resetting!
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Old 07-30-2019, 10:16 PM   #21
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What exactly is “AGM”? I replaced the old one with a 210amp deep cycle/RV battery. Is that a name brand?
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Old 07-31-2019, 04:56 AM   #22
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What exactly is “AGM”? I replaced the old one with a 210amp deep cycle/RV battery. Is that a name brand?
No it’s a dry cell battery. The dealer talked us into one because it holds a charge for longer, better dry camping. Found out this type battery was throwing the reset button. We now have two RV batteries.
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Old 07-31-2019, 05:53 AM   #23
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No it’s a dry cell battery. The dealer talked us into one because it holds a charge for longer, better dry camping. Found out this type battery was throwing the reset button. We now have two RV batteries.
How do you like the two battery set up? I’m thinking about doing that too. How long can you run your fridge, hot water heater and a couple lights on that setup? How long does it take to charge them? I’m not sure but the previous owner had this camper “winterized” and had turned off the red battery, master power, in the cargo space at the front of the camper to store it. I wonder if that flipped it the switch? He had a regular deep cycle battery and not one labeled for RV. I upgraded it though.
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Old 07-31-2019, 08:36 AM   #24
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Not to say for sure but I would be very slow to buy new batteries based on type as a battery of each type should work very much the same. But I also did not know there was a rest there to begin! I am often faced with new equipment that I'm not fully trained to fix, so one of the reasons I like to always look at drawings first is that it will tell me things are on the circuit, even when I was not aware of them.
It does sound possible that batteries which have lost much of their water would need to be replaced but that is a different question than changing types of batteries.
Each type has advantages and disadvantages. While newer design batteries like dry cell can give longer lasting power, they are also very much more expensive and there is very little way to maintain them to make them last longer.
I use wet cell batteries for a number of reasons that fit my personal use. One is that I rarely dry camp, so extended run time on batteries is not a primary need and a well maintained wet cell will often last longer than others. I also like being able to change out both my "regular " batteries easily at lots of places almost anywhere and for the price of one of the newer design batteries.
The wet cells that I often work on are often as much as twenty years old but they are also large and maintained monthly.
What works best for each of us will depend on lots of personal choices.
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Old 08-01-2019, 05:02 AM   #25
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No it’s a dry cell battery. The dealer talked us into one because it holds a charge for longer, better dry camping. Found out this type battery was throwing the reset button. We now have two RV batteries.

AGM= Absorbed Glass Mat battery. It works essentially the same as FLA (flooded lead acid). In traditional or FLA batteries the electrolyte is liquid and that liquid level must be maintained. In AGM batteries the electrolyte is absorbed into a fiberglass mat next to the lead plate. There is no liquid moving around or to maintain in AGM so they are referred to as "maintenance free" although other types of FLA batteries are sometimes labeled the same. The electrolyte in AGM is more like a paste which saturates the glass mat.



If you don't want to check the electrolyte level of FLA batteries spend the extra cash for AGM. AGM batteries may be more sensitive to overcharge and undercharge and discharge beyond 50% which will shorten their life cycles.


AGM batteries have lower internal resistance than FLA and recharge slightly faster. It is usually acceptable to use AGM deep cycle in any application for FLA deep cycle.


AGM batteries are approximately double cost of FLA batteries. Rough estimate.


https://www.crownbattery.com/news/ag...u-need-to-know
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Old 08-01-2019, 08:35 AM   #26
Winnie-Wise
 
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My first thought for this case is how the reset is supposed to work differently with different type batteries. A rest is a form of "breaker" and would be assumed to trip due to higher than rated current flow. So my first question would be why a dry or wet cell would have enough difference in the current , either when charging or discharging, to trip a breaker. I normally think of breakers as being able to handle the normal flow plus some for avoiding unnecessary tripping.
I have no info on what this rest button does, nor how it is rated, etc. but I do know how many repair shops are advised by the industry mags to help them increase the profit margin. They may call it "profit enhancement" but from a customer standpoint, I call it a scam in a number of cases.
I don't have enough info to say but before changing battery types, I would want to ask if it is really a case of the reset button getting weak and tripping too easily as the amount of current drawn by each actually makes the battery type very much the same if the reset is not really too close to the normal current expected.
Looking at a landline phone bill and asking what a "cost recovery fee" really means will give an idea of the business ethics involved!
To me, the cost recovery is very close to being "increased profit"!!
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Old 08-02-2019, 05:59 AM   #27
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I agree, it makes no difference what type of battery, AGM or FLA, in tripping the reset breaker. Zero. Those push button breakers (reset button) are known to fail by getting weak. That wiring box is a rat's nest for sure. I'd be looking for a way to open the "other side" and run those wires to a good weatherproof switchable breaker.



I run Trojan FLA, not paying double for the privilege either, checking the electrolyte is just regular maintenance to me. Other folks don't like checking electrolyte levels and prefer to spend the cash on AGM but it doesn't make any difference in tripping a breaker. AGM batteries don't out-gas either so that's a point for location specific needs.
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Old 08-02-2019, 08:46 PM   #28
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How do you like the two battery set up? I’m thinking about doing that too. How long can you run your fridge, hot water heater and a couple lights on that setup? How long does it take to charge them? I’m not sure but the previous owner had this camper “winterized” and had turned off the red battery, master power, in the cargo space at the front of the camper to store it. I wonder if that flipped it the switch? He had a regular deep cycle battery and not one labeled for RV. I upgraded it though.
I like the two battery system. We use propane for the frig and hot water. We also have a small solar panel that helps. We had a battery monitor installed so we can know just how much time. We have left.
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