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Old 02-23-2016, 02:43 PM   #1
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Battery watering on 2015 Itasca Navion 24J

I have a neighbor with a 2015 Itasca Navion 24J and the chassis batteries are discharged. She has kept it plugged into 30A power and I suspected that the water may have boiled out.
I found the battery under the access plate in front of the driver's seat, but I can't figure out how to view into the cells. The owner's manual states that the water levels should be checked, but doesn't tell how to do it!

I found a plastic handle on top of the battery but when I lifted it nothing seemed to happen. I was afraid to put too much pressure on it. Is that supposed to pop open a cover to reveal the cell openings?

Thanks for any help!
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:07 PM   #2
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Hi Joe!
A call to Winnie TS should help. Monaco pulled me out of an electrical problem this week.


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Old 02-23-2016, 03:19 PM   #3
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Hi Joe!
A call to Winnie TS should help. Monaco pulled me out of an electrical problem this week.


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Hi Dave! If nobody can help me maybe they will give me a tech support number. I don't know anything about Winnies, just trying to help a neighbor who lost her husband a couple of months ago!
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:19 PM   #4
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I replaced the battery in my father-in-law's 2008 Navion, I think it was AGM. I do find mentions of the stock group 49 being AGM online, but couldn't confirm that 100%. Might be in the Mercedes owner's manual. (I also found mentions of the Winnebago manual being wrong about the chassis battery.)
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:21 PM   #5
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hard to tell, Joe. IF the battery is a typical 12-volt lead acid battery it will have 6-cells in two groups of three all in a straight line and each group of 3-cells with an individual cover. that's how all of my lead acid batteries for the last 50-years have looked but I 'spose anything is possible. you might need to use a flat edge screwdriver to pry up one side of the cover to facilitate its removal. t

the photo is of a typical 12-volt lead acid battery. you can clearly see the two separate covers that must be removed to check and/or add water.



it IS possible that the coach batteries are NOT lead acid (AGM is a likely candidate) in which case there are no cells to check or add water to OR the battery is a sealed, maintenance free battery in which case there are no cells to check or add water to.
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:23 PM   #6
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I have read on here from a few owners that Sprinter chassis don't charge the start battery when plugged in.

The house batteries may have battery caps and the start battery may be maintance free. Did you see more then one battery ?

The others owners discused adding a trik-l-start.

Just something to check
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:16 PM   #7
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Unless Winnebago changed something in 2015, the View / Navion chassis battery is maintenance free. And it does not charge when plugged into a 30 amp source. It does have a habit of discharging rapidly though when not in use. I added a battery tender to mine to keep it charged.

The two house batteries under the stair step do charge when plugged into a 30 amp source and the water levels need to be monitored.
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:18 PM   #8
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I'm thinking it must be an AGM battery! It doesn't look like any battery I've seen, certainly does not have the normal snap-off caps!

The house batteries are regular lead-acid batteries. I checked the water in them.

I'll try to get a pic of the battery tomorrow and see if anyone recognizes it!
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:22 PM   #9
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Joe & Annette,

Sorry to hear about your friend's problem. First.... there are two sets of batteries on a Navion (if it is like my View Profile).

The battery you located in the floor to the right and ahead of the driver's seat is the CHASSIS/STARTER battery. It is a SEALED unit despite looking like it should have 'caps' for maintaining fluid levels. My View's battery had an 'eye' .... much like the old Delco batteries .... to tell you when the fluid is low. I suspect, that at the point of needing water you just replace it. IME.... about 2 1/2 to 3 years most likely.

Since this battery is located in an enclosed well beside the driver's seat, it has a vent tube from battery to under the van for venting hydrogen gas. The tube is located on the battery end of the 'cap' toward the gas pedal. The opposite end has a plug in the same location. Because it is a 'vented' battery, it is 'sealed' to avoid issues of H2 gas collecting in the battery compartment.

The 'COACH' batteries (2) are located inside the main hatch & under the second step. Release the clamp on the riser between the steps. Sort out releasing the clamp...it's self locking. Raise and remove the upper step (its heavy and may be stuck to the rubber gaskets) for access to the coach batteries. The battery bank is located under the top step.

On mine.... the coach batteries are typical "old school" flooded lead acid jobs. Service like you would any other battery. It's pretty easy but you may need to force some of the cables and battery handles aside to remove the caps.

(TIPS: You need a good flashlight. Also, get a piece of thick carpet or beach towel and put it on the top step of the retractable steps. You can kneel on that to get easier access to the batteries.)

FWIW.... I've replaced chassis batteries on two Sprinter RVs. I can't figure out if the OEMs are 'glass mat' types. I suspect not. Just sealed flooded batteries. I just replaced the chassis battery on our View with an AGM type battery from Autozone.

Shore power charges coach batteries.... as you know. It does not charge the chassis battery. Shore power charging should not cause harm to the coach batteries. If, like my View, WBGO used a Progressive Dynamics PD-9200 series converter/charger. It's pretty well designed and uses a 'floating' mode and also a 'de sulfering' strategy to protect the batteries.

The chassis battery is only charged by the Sprinter engine. Or, another strategy like a maintainer or solar maintainer added by the owner. A small 'maintainer' like a Battery Tender/Schumacher 3A maintainer will work with an accessory plug adapter. Use the always 'hot' accessory/cigarette plug in the base of the console below the dash to 'maintain' the chassis battery. Plug into a convenient 110V outlet in the coach when on shore power. JUST BE SURE THE MAINTAINER IS THE FIRST THING YOU DISCONNECT BEFORE BEFORE STARTING THE SPRINTER!!!!!!
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:02 AM   #10
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Joe & Annette,

Sorry to hear about your friend's problem. First.... there are two sets of batteries on a Navion (if it is like my View Profile).

The battery you located in the floor to the right and ahead of the driver's seat is the CHASSIS/STARTER battery. It is a SEALED unit despite looking like it should have 'caps' for maintaining fluid levels. My View's battery had an 'eye' .... much like the old Delco batteries .... to tell you when the fluid is low. I suspect, that at the point of needing water you just replace it. IME.... about 2 1/2 to 3 years most likely.

Since this battery is located in an enclosed well beside the driver's seat, it has a vent tube from battery to under the van for venting hydrogen gas. The tube is located on the battery end of the 'cap' toward the gas pedal. The opposite end has a plug in the same location. Because it is a 'vented' battery, it is 'sealed' to avoid issues of H2 gas collecting in the battery compartment.

The 'COACH' batteries (2) are located inside the main hatch & under the second step. Release the clamp on the riser between the steps. Sort out releasing the clamp...it's self locking. Raise and remove the upper step (its heavy and may be stuck to the rubber gaskets) for access to the coach batteries. The battery bank is located under the top step.

On mine.... the coach batteries are typical "old school" flooded lead acid jobs. Service like you would any other battery. It's pretty easy but you may need to force some of the cables and battery handles aside to remove the caps.

(TIPS: You need a good flashlight. Also, get a piece of thick carpet or beach towel and put it on the top step of the retractable steps. You can kneel on that to get easier access to the batteries.)

FWIW.... I've replaced chassis batteries on two Sprinter RVs. I can't figure out if the OEMs are 'glass mat' types. I suspect not. Just sealed flooded batteries. I just replaced the chassis battery on our View with an AGM type battery from Autozone.

Shore power charges coach batteries.... as you know. It does not charge the chassis battery. Shore power charging should not cause harm to the coach batteries. If, like my View, WBGO used a Progressive Dynamics PD-9200 series converter/charger. It's pretty well designed and uses a 'floating' mode and also a 'de sulfering' strategy to protect the batteries.

The chassis battery is only charged by the Sprinter engine. Or, another strategy like a maintainer or solar maintainer added by the owner. A small 'maintainer' like a Battery Tender/Schumacher 3A maintainer will work with an accessory plug adapter. Use the always 'hot' accessory/cigarette plug in the base of the console below the dash to 'maintain' the chassis battery. Plug into a convenient 110V outlet in the coach when on shore power. JUST BE SURE THE MAINTAINER IS THE FIRST THING YOU DISCONNECT BEFORE BEFORE STARTING THE SPRINTER!!!!!!

Thank you so much for this info! There is a chassis battery disconnect just to the right of the throttle pedal and they didn't know to disconnect it when the MH was not being used for long periods. The manual says to disconnect it when the MH is not used for more than two weeks.

I have a battery charger with a trickle charge setting. Would it be OK to disconnect the battery using the connection mentioned above and connect directly to the battery, leaving it on there maybe 24 hours?

The battery does have the "eye" you mentioned, and it shows OK!
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Old 02-24-2016, 04:04 PM   #11
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Joe & Annette,

Sorry to hear about your friend's problem. First.... there are two sets of batteries on a Navion (if it is like my View Profile).

The battery you located in the floor to the right and ahead of the driver's seat is the CHASSIS/STARTER battery. It is a SEALED unit despite looking like it should have 'caps' for maintaining fluid levels. My View's battery had an 'eye' .... much like the old Delco batteries .... to tell you when the fluid is low. I suspect, that at the point of needing water you just replace it. IME.... about 2 1/2 to 3 years most likely.

Since this battery is located in an enclosed well beside the driver's seat, it has a vent tube from battery to under the van for venting hydrogen gas. The tube is located on the battery end of the 'cap' toward the gas pedal. The opposite end has a plug in the same location. Because it is a 'vented' battery, it is 'sealed' to avoid issues of H2 gas collecting in the battery compartment.

The 'COACH' batteries (2) are located inside the main hatch & under the second step. Release the clamp on the riser between the steps. Sort out releasing the clamp...it's self locking. Raise and remove the upper step (its heavy and may be stuck to the rubber gaskets) for access to the coach batteries. The battery bank is located under the top step.

On mine.... the coach batteries are typical "old school" flooded lead acid jobs. Service like you would any other battery. It's pretty easy but you may need to force some of the cables and battery handles aside to remove the caps.

(TIPS: You need a good flashlight. Also, get a piece of thick carpet or beach towel and put it on the top step of the retractable steps. You can kneel on that to get easier access to the batteries.)

FWIW.... I've replaced chassis batteries on two Sprinter RVs. I can't figure out if the OEMs are 'glass mat' types. I suspect not. Just sealed flooded batteries. I just replaced the chassis battery on our View with an AGM type battery from Autozone.

Shore power charges coach batteries.... as you know. It does not charge the chassis battery. Shore power charging should not cause harm to the coach batteries. If, like my View, WBGO used a Progressive Dynamics PD-9200 series converter/charger. It's pretty well designed and uses a 'floating' mode and also a 'de sulfering' strategy to protect the batteries.

The chassis battery is only charged by the Sprinter engine. Or, another strategy like a maintainer or solar maintainer added by the owner. A small 'maintainer' like a Battery Tender/Schumacher 3A maintainer will work with an accessory plug adapter. Use the always 'hot' accessory/cigarette plug in the base of the console below the dash to 'maintain' the chassis battery. Plug into a convenient 110V outlet in the coach when on shore power. JUST BE SURE THE MAINTAINER IS THE FIRST THING YOU DISCONNECT BEFORE BEFORE STARTING THE SPRINTER!!!!!!
Is that Aux jack always connected directly to the battery? Wouldn't want to burn up something else!
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:32 PM   #12
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I've never futzed with the "disconnect." Our View can sit for 4-6 weeks before needing a run to charge chassis battery. Maybe it it were a couple of months I'd think about it.

While its not healthy for the battery to be significantly discharged for long periods, they are storage batteries designed to hold energy for a long time.

The WBGOs have a switch below the cupholder in the center console. It is a Booster for the starter battery should it be too depleted to start the engine. Press and hold the Booster ON while starting the engine. The switch momentarily "slaves" the coach battery pack to the chassis battery for an emergency start.

I believe using the disconnect disables the entire Sprinter electrical system. It severs the ground in the electric system when open. You would not be able to use the accessory plug to mantain the chassis battery I'm thinking.

AFAIK, the cigarette lighter/acessory plug is direct to battery. Its always "hot" unless you disconnect the electrical system.

I have used the always hot accessory/cigarette lighter plug (center lower console) to maintain the chassis battery and/or charge it when hooked to shore power. It is rated for 300W and is used on some Sprinters as a power source for the big fat tire pump. A 3/6 Amp charger/maintainer would be OK. Since its low Amp, it will take several hours to full charge. Not a problem if in storage.

I'd take this route rather than klugeing something directly to battery. Besides, opening up the battery box and buttoning it back up is a PITA. So much better to "plug and play."

There is another alternative that worked on my 2010 Ventura. Attach the maintainer to the "jump start" connections under the hood. There is a negative post on the left inner fender. The positve connection is under a RED plastic protector on the driver's side of the air cleaner. The protector is spring loaded and pushes back to expose the terminal.

I'd make damn sure to unplug and disconnect the maintainer BEFORE starting the engine.
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Old 02-25-2016, 01:37 AM   #13
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There is a small device called Trik-L-Charge the installs between the House and Starting batteries and its purpose i.e. To eliminate exactly this problem with the starting batteries bleeding off. I don't know what that time is on the Navion, but mine is measured in weeks. It's worth having one installed as that will always be at full charge if the RV is plugged in
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Old 02-25-2016, 05:12 PM   #14
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There is a small device called Trik-L-Charge the installs between the House and Starting batteries and its purpose i.e. To eliminate exactly this problem with the starting batteries bleeding off. I don't know what that time is on the Navion, but mine is measured in weeks. It's worth having one installed as that will always be at full charge if the RV is plugged in
I'm familiar with the Trik-L-Charge and it appear to be a clever way of keeping the chassis battery charged. I do not have one. Here's my thinking....

Mercedes Sprinters are not Fords or Chevys. The electrical system on a Sprinter is similar to those found on other Mercedes products. It is highly sophisticated; uses lots of sensors, a CANBUS (A controller area network (CAN bus) is a vehicle bus standard designed to allow microcontrollers and devices to communicate with each other in applications without a host computer.) You would think that something as simple as replacing a tail light bulb could be a no-brainer. It is not. You have to replace the duff bulb with one that has EXACTLY the same electrical characteristics. If you don't.... the Sprinter KNOWS and it will let you KNOW it KNOWS. So kluging stuff on to a Sprinter electrical system should be taken with a great deal of forethought, deliberation, care and trepidation.

Not saying you can't put a T-L-C on a Sprinter....... but doing so MAY open Pandora's Box of troubles.

Mother Benz is very, very specific about what 'up fitters,' like Winnebago and RV manufacturers, can add to a Sprinter. Also about where, how, and other specifications that the up fitter must adhere to to be approved by Mother Benz. It's about as complicated as adding something to an airliner or the space shuttle. The 'whats and where fores' of the electrical system are carefully thought out by Mother. Tinkering with the wiring.... unless you know exactly what you are doing and have the up fitter's specifications and call outs, is..... well, skating on thin ice, IMHO. A screw up is likely to cost $$$$$$$$$. It's not a Ford. It's not a Chevy.

Let's say you plunge ahead.... throwing caution to the winds.... I see several 'engineering' problems to over come.

First: The chassis battery is 'locked down' in a compartment under the floorboard next to the driver's right leg. It is basically sealed except for several small holes (drains?) and the 'pin hole' for the hydrogen vent tube. The metal cover is held down by four 'quick release' remain in place screws. The cover fits tightly to make it gas proof. The large positive and negative wires enter the 'box' at the 'fore and aft' positions and are protected by metal shields. The positive cable has a large 'honeycomb' multi-junction connection device that rests beside the end of the battery. The whole thing is a very close fit.

The second issue is the location of the coach batteries. They are under the steps on the passenger side. To make a connection to them, you would either: somehow figure out how to run the wires over the floor and under the mats from the 'buried' coach batteries to the 'buried' chassis battery leaving them open to damage. And it would be unsightly.

The other scenario would be to puncture the chassis battery's 'coffin' and fish wires under the RV over to the coach battery bank. Sounds easy. May not be so. You have to get over the transmission/drive shaft, avoid the heat of the exhaust just to the passenger side of the transmission/drive shaft. In that area is the catalytic converter, the diesel exhaust filter, and a bunch of other stuff... it gets real hot in that area.

Yes you could skirt all that area and somehow jump side to side to hook everything up.

It is so much easier to use the 400W always on cigarette/accessory plug on the lower part of the center console. It's already wired to the + & - of the battery. Mother knows it's there and you don't have to worry about all the above. Just plug in to the accessory port and 110 to an easy to reach duplex that is powered by shore power. The maintainer will do it's job.... basically the same way a T-L-C works, except power is taken directly from shore and not off the battery bank.

Just my crazy thoughts. It's what I do.
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Old 02-25-2016, 05:47 PM   #15
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If the Sprinter has a Boost solenoid, that is the perfect spot for a Tric-L-Start connections.

Access to both battery positive cables in one place.
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:33 PM   #16
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The T-L-C is just another charger by any other name. As far as the Sprinter being finicky, the broadcast industry uses Sprinters for both microwave and satellite vans worldwide. I have operated them, and more important I either design or approve design of those vans, especially the electrical systems. There is no issue whatsoever installing T-L-C or any other chassis charger on the Sprinter, I have 9 of them running around (including one from when Dodge had the company) the country and they do fine with cross chargers hanging on the starting battery. If you're trying to fix that nagging problem, the Trik-L-Charger or any of its competition work just fine
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:48 AM   #17
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Thanks everyone! I'll plug into the Aux Power outlet!
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Old 02-26-2016, 06:36 AM   #18
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If the Sprinter has a Boost solenoid, that is the perfect spot for a Tric-L-Start connections.

Access to both battery positive cables in one place.
Under the passenger seat is the typical ('08 - up?) Winnebago/Sprinter setup:


While you're in there, replace that mode solenoid with something better...

Probably threads here about installing Trik-L-Starts here at irv2 if you search.

Edit....
Sure is:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/how-...on-264309.html

I even have posts in it as my Father-in-law's Navion needed the solenoid replaced, so I knew where it was.
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Old 02-27-2016, 03:19 PM   #19
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I ordered her the charger below, along with the plug for the Aux output!

Robot Check

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Old 03-02-2016, 09:19 AM   #20
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Another question for you Winnie guys!

On the 2015 Itasca Navion 24J, are there connections under the hood for charging the chassis battery without having to remove the plate and carpet pad inside?

I want to get the chassis battery up to full charge before putting the battery maintainer on.

Thanks again for your help.
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