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Old 04-19-2012, 09:02 AM   #1
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Angry Battery Problem

I just bought a "new" 2010 Winnie Outlook. It probably has been sitting on a dealer lot for over two years.

I drove it off the lot and stopped after 45 minutes of driving and tried to restart after a 20 minute stop. I had to get a jump. I have now had to have it jump started twice since - less than 30 days.

Returning to dealer is not possible due to distance.

Should I just replace the starter battery?

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Old 04-19-2012, 09:11 AM   #2
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Have battery checked for its ability to hold a charge, also, check water levels, fill with distilled if low.

Does your RV have a switch to allow house batteries to 'boost' chassis batteries for an emergency start?
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:14 AM   #3
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Have you connected it up to shore power and let the in house charger charge the
batteries up?
Sounds like a case of sitting a long time and the batteries discharged over time.
Before you start just replacing things you need to have the batteries up to full
charge.
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:19 AM   #4
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Fircrest,
Is the alternator charging at good rate? Belts are adjusted correctly? Terminals are clean?
Charge the batteries if they if they take a charge and have them load tested. Good Luck
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:58 AM   #5
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How far have you driven it? It does sound like you need a new battery. That should be replaced under the chassis warranty, so that would be done by the Ford dealer.
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimpattigeib View Post
Fircrest,
Is the alternator charging at good rate? Belts are adjusted correctly? Terminals are clean?
Charge the batteries if they if they take a charge and have them load tested. Good Luck

EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!
Jim hit the nail right on the head. Determine the state of the charging system BEFORE heading out to your local battery store. One other point that might have some bearing on the situation. And that is, a possible "short" or "Draw" on the battery when the coach is not running. That could be something as simple as some lights left on that are not readily visible during the day, or it might be deeper and a bit of analyzation might be in line. There's a very simple test for that one.

Simply remove the negative battery cable and put a test light in between the cable end and the battery negative post. If it lights up, you've got a short or draw on the battery. And, depending on just how much of a draw it is, it will take down a battery fairly quickly. Once that's done, THEN head out to either your battery store or, a local auto parts store that can put a proper load on your chassis battery and tell you if it's in good condition and that it can handle a load.

Once that's done and they say one way or the other that your battery is good or junk, then, all the preliminary tests are done and go buy a battery if needed. Like Jim said, do some preliminary testing before spending money.
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:28 AM   #7
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Fircrest:
I had a 08 Winn Class C on the Ford chassis. Had a similar problem. I drove 120 miles and the next morning, it wouldn't start. Took it to Ford who load tested it and said it was fine but not fully charged. I suspect that is your problem as well. The answer is to get a trickle charger and keep it connected or add a "Trik-L-Start" unit that takes a portion of the converter current and charges the chassis battery when you are connected to house power. Without such an addition, your chassis battery will not charge when the RV is connected to AC so just hooking it up to power will not charge the chassis battery but will charge the house batteries. I found when I couldn't connect to AC once a week, the best alternative was to disconnect the negative lead on the battery. In my opinion, the Ford battery is too small for an RV given it has the electric steps and other RV loads in addition to the normal automotive parasitic loads on the chassis battery.
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:50 AM   #8
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According to '10 Winnebago Outlook specs, it has an auxiliary start circuit, (which connects house and chassis bats together) and an "automatic dual battery charge control" which should charge both batteries (I think) when on shore power, driving, or with generator (if you have one)

I would check water in batteries and connections, then drive to a Ford dealer. The chassis battery should be under warrantee if you bought it as new.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:04 PM   #9
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The easiest cure is hook it up to shore power and let it charge for a whole day then
you can check the batteries to see what shape they are in.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:09 PM   #10
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Interesting post;;; The most important Thing to remember, When a battery is left in a less them full charge for any time (Days/weeks) It starts a /the sulfateing process That Can not be reversed (Altho some say put an aspirn in it . HA) The only cure is replace them.. If the coach has been setting for more then a year with out being used.. The answer is quite simple. NEW BATTERIES;;Life is dissapointing but good.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:10 PM   #11
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I had a 2008 Cambria and I can assure you that the "automatic dual battery charge control" system only charges both batteries when the engine is running. If you do a search, you will find the dead battery problem is very common on Winn Class Cs. Winnebago has installed the Trik-L-Start on all their diesel pushers for some time to correct this problem. That feature - if you check their DP Brochures - is called a "Chassis Battery Charger/Maintainer" which does exactly what you described on AC or generator power. Unfortunately, most purchasers woud interpret the "charge system" the same way that you have -I did - only to find out later that it does not function as expected.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:26 PM   #12
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Bobmac, I stand corrected. OP should plug in to shore power to charge house batteries, hook up a battery charger to chassis battery and charge for 24 hours. THEN have battery health checked. I'd call dealer and see what they will do for him.
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:53 PM   #13
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It was running and it stopped (Stalled) and you had to jump it...

I'm thinking not only the battery but possibly the alternator and/or starter may need attention.

You need a full check of the charging system, battery and starter.. Some places do that for free just so they can sell you parts you may or may not need.
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:09 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by bachler View Post
Interesting post;;; The most important Thing to remember, When a battery is left in a less them full charge for any time (Days/weeks) It starts a /the sulfateing process That Can not be reversed (Altho some say put an aspirn in it . HA) The only cure is replace them.. If the coach has been setting for more then a year with out being used.. The answer is quite simple. NEW BATTERIES;;Life is dissapointing but good.
Actually many of the charger/invertes have a de-sulphation charge setting on them. They charge the battery at a higher voltage than normal and knock the sulphation off the plates.
I don't know about using an aspirin, I've never tried it. I did, however use some de-sulphation liquid that I bought at Harbor Freight. My house batteries (Interstate U-2200's) lasted 9 years and I NEVER used the de-sulphation chsrge setting on my inverter so it must have done some good.
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