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Old 09-04-2008, 08:37 AM   #1
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The air does not seem cold in my motorhome and on a hot day can not keep unit cool. with ambemenit temp at 70 to 75` the temp at the discharge is onley 60 degrees. How cold should the air get at the coils. Toad air is 40 degree at regeister. Do I need a charg toped up? Any help Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:37 AM   #2
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The air does not seem cold in my motorhome and on a hot day can not keep unit cool. with ambemenit temp at 70 to 75` the temp at the discharge is onley 60 degrees. How cold should the air get at the coils. Toad air is 40 degree at regeister. Do I need a charg toped up? Any help Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:57 AM   #3
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Nope, no charge top-off needed -- the unit is sealed and should never need a re-charge. As to discharge air temp, using an infrared thermometer, below 100F, my roof vents normally put out air in the high 30's/low 40's.

You don't tell us what year you Adventurer is, but there are two likely problems.
1 - the air duct is leaking behind the rear cap. You can normally discover this problem by lying on the ground under the right rear and reaching your hand upward behind the cap by the duct, and/or reaching up on top of the horzontal duct where it makes the turn to go upward. Mine was leaking badly at that turn, on top. If your duct is leaking higher up, you might determine that by running the ac unit on a hot day and feeling the outside of the rear cap from bottom to top of the right side. A cool spot would likely indicate a duct leak at that point. If you cannot reach the leaking spot from the bottom to apply tape, the rear cap has to be removed to make the repair.
2 - A bad start capacitor is preventing one compressor from starting. Start capacitors can be serviced w/o removing the ac unit from the coach. When running the coach on 30a or generator, you can tell if both compressors are running by watching the amp meter inside. When the unit starts, one compressor starts up and pulls apx 17a. Apx 2 min later, the second compressor kicks in, and both together pull apx 23a.

With the temps you report, I suspect your problem is separated ducts. I believe even just one compressor would do better than your temps at ambient temp 70-75.

To find a qualified service location near you, check the RVP website at http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/service/need_repairs.php and look for the letters "uf" in the "Services Provided" area of a service location listing. Unless your Adventurer is still under warranty, Winnebago dealers are not necessarily the best place to have the ac/heat pump unit serviced.
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:02 AM   #4
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You can do this test....use a reliable thermometer and determine temp of air entering the intake at the filter opening(usually under the bed). Then measure temp at one of the adjacent roof vents. You should see a differential of at least 20 degrees F.

If not, you might want to check around/under your rear cap. In some models, there has been a problem with the ductwork coming loose or otherwise leaking air. If you have a laser temp gizmo, you can aim that in the general area and see quickly if cold air is leaking. My duct had a small leak which I was able to fix with good foil duct tape.

You also need to determine if you thermostat is working properly...is it calling for cooling when it should which will turn on the compressors. Do you hear an audible click at the thermostat when you set the desired temp associated with hearing the compressors come on?

You can run your genset, turn off the AC, watch the amp readings, turn on the AC. You should see increased amp draw as the first compressor comes on, followed by increased amp draw as the second compressor comes on. I believe both compressors pull about 17-18 amps.

You can go the the RVP website and, using the model number of your AC unit, download a service/toubleshooting manual.
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:40 PM   #5
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Not so fast on the amperage thing......on generator, my EMS panel does not read the 2nd compressor but you can feel the gennie surge when it starts. I only get an increased readin when on shore power. The 20 amp circuit of the generator goe right to the A/C unit not thru the EMS panel. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:54 PM   #6
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That's not true with the 8000QD on my Vectra. The panel reads both legs, and I've seen the gererator load as high as 55 amps. With both compressors and the fan on high, it reads about 26 amps - may vary depending on inverter load and other miscellaneous.
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Old 09-05-2008, 01:04 AM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by porscheracer:
That's not true with the 8000QD on my Vectra. The panel reads both legs, and I've seen the gererator load as high as 55 amps. With both compressors and the fan on high, it reads about 26 amps - may vary depending on inverter load and other miscellaneous. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Your experience will vary from those with a 5.5K generator which usually has only the 30 amp side of the genny powering the house panel and displayed in the EMS panel. An 8K diesel generator is not hooked up the same as the 5.5K units so the EMS shows the load on both fields of the genny.
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Old 09-05-2008, 03:15 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NeilV:
Your experience will vary from those with a 5.5K generator . . .. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No argument. I was attempting (albeit poorly, evidently) to point out that Fossilhog's statement wasn't 100% applicable, either.
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Old 09-05-2008, 04:20 AM   #9
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Since VietVet didn't tell us what model RV he had, I tried to word my response with what I experienced with MY unit as I stated in MY case with my model unit in my signature. Guess I didn't explain that too well either. No harm no foul.

Tim, another Viet Vet
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:50 AM   #10
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Thanks for the input I will try the sugestions. By the way it is a 05 38J.

Thanks
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