Basement A/C & 15 Amps? - Page 2

Tom N · 07-16-2007, 10:18 AM

I have the AC service manual.

Stage #1 draws 14.64 amps. (1650w cooling)

Stage #1 & #2 draw 24.7 amps. (2784w cooling)

-Tom

Tom N · 07-16-2007, 11:31 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by 03 CORVETTE:
go get a 50 foot 30 amp from camping world and make sure the dryer plug at the house is same terminals............... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You can NOT do this.

A dryer outlet is 220v 30amp. The 220v is composed of 2 - 110v circuits and a common.

An RV 30 amp outlet is ONE 30 amp 110v circuit, a common and a ground.

If you plug an RV 30 amp lug into a dryer 30 amp outlet. You're putting 220v into your coach. Your coaches common becomes a hot 110v connection!!!

"First, a 30-amp system is the most common on RVs. The 30-amp plug on your RV is a large three-prong device that looks very similar to a 220-volt plug that used at home to power a stove or clothes dryer. Your RV plug, however, IS NOT for 220 volts, so never plug it into a 220-volt outlet."

[Source: http://www.newrver.com/electricity.html ]

"Dear Gary,
my husband recently had an electric outlet installed at our house for our 5th wheel so we could run the refrigerator and other items while at home. The electrician put in a 220-volt outlet and a 30-amp breaker on the box. When we plugged it in it blew the microwave and we are not sure about the refrigerator. We are also sure it blew the converter. A very hard lesson learned and I am sure an expensive one. We take it in soon to our dealer to assess the damage. My question is; what sort of an outlet should we have installed to run the air condition and appliances. We used to plug it into our regular house current and it would blow the breaker in the house. Can you help us; dumb, dumb and dumber! Colleen Salazar, (Grand Junction, CO)"

"Colleen,
I'm sure sorry to hear about your electrical problem. The receptacle should have been wired with a 30-amp configuration for 120-volts AC, not 220-volts. Indeed the microwave is probably toast as is the heating element in the refrigerator (if it was turned on) and most assuredly the converter. Doubling the voltage is extremely harmful. I am flabbergasted the electrician did not think to ask what was going to be plugged in to that receptacle. Insurance, (yours or the electricians) may cover such damage. There may be other avenues of recourse as well. Your "regular" house current was the correct voltage, but the circuit was evidently undersized for the demand placed on it by the RV. It was probably a 15 or 20-amp circuit while the RV is rated for and could draw up to 30 amps. The jump from a 15 to a 30-amp circuit includes the change of configuration to that of the shoreline cord....but still at 120-volts. Be sure the dealer checks all the wiring as well as every electrical component in the RV. This situation also calls for an insulation breakdown test to be sure the wiring itself was damaged."

[Source: http://www.rvdoctor.com/rvdoctor306.html ]

Some excellent RV wiring diagrams are on this website. http://www.dasplace.net/RVWiring/wiring.html

-Tom

Pubtym · 07-16-2007, 11:49 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
I have the AC service manual.

Stage #1 draws 14.64 amps. (1650w cooling)

Stage #1 & #2 draw 24.7 amps. (2784w cooling)

-Tom </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for specific data. That must be max startup draw then tapers ofF to 10-11/21-22?

TXiceman · 07-16-2007, 12:05 PM

Where you will have trouble is on HOT days trying to start against a high compressor head. It may start and operate fine early or late in the day, but will have problems from Noon on to sundown.

Ken

Tom N · 07-16-2007, 01:20 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TXiceman:
Where you will have trouble is on HOT days trying to start against a high compressor head. It may start and operate fine early or late in the day, but will have problems from Noon on to sundown.

Ken </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The EMS system will prevent a start with a high head pressure.

Intellitec's manual states, "There is a two minute minimum delay period after a load is shed before the load will be turned back on again to prevent air conditioners from turning on with a head of pressure."

-Tom

Pubtym · 07-16-2007, 01:34 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TXiceman:
Where you will have trouble is on HOT days trying to start against a high compressor head. It may start and operate fine early or late in the day, but will have problems from Noon on to sundown.

Ken </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The EMS system will prevent a start with a high head pressure.

Intellitec's manual states, "There is a two minute minimum delay period after a load is shed before the load will be turned back on again to prevent air conditioners from turning on with a head of pressure."

-Tom </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks very much...super info...

TXiceman · 07-16-2007, 02:55 PM

The EMS just looks at amps, not compressor pressure. In hot weather the 2 minutes may not be time enough to get the pressure down to a level that the compressor can start or operate.

I have run our rigs on 15 amps and operated the A/C....but do have problem in the heat of the day.

Ken

Tom N · 07-16-2007, 04:04 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TXiceman:
The EMS just looks at amps, not compressor pressure. In hot weather the 2 minutes may not be time enough to get the pressure down to a level that the compressor can start or operate.

I have run our rigs on 15 amps and operated the A/C....but do have problem in the heat of the day.

Ken </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Did Intellitec screw up?? Maybe they should have programmed the delay for 3 minutes. Is 3 minutes enough??

Intellitec phone tech support is great. I may call them and tell them what you stated and see how their tech responds.

If the EMS starts the AC compressor too early what are the consequences??

-Tom

TXiceman · 07-17-2007, 06:16 AM

Gentlemen, watch out on the remarks toward one another. This kind of posting is not allowed on this site.

Tom N, no, normally 2 minute should work, but sometimes it may not. The EMS is an attempt to keep things running and keep the appliances from operating in a low power condition. I'm just trying to note a word of caution. If the compressor dies try to start too soon and has problems, it will either trip the breaker or cycle the compressor off with it's internal overload (resets automatically). It protects the compressor and should not be used as a normal operating control.

Ken

Tom N · 07-17-2007, 07:34 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TXiceman:

Tom N, no, normally 2 minute should work, but sometimes it may not. The EMS is an attempt to keep things running and keep the appliances from operating in a low power condition. I'm just trying to note a word of caution. If the compressor dies try to start too soon and has problems, it will either trip the breaker or cycle the compressor off with it's internal overload (resets automatically). It protects the compressor and should not be used as a normal operating control.

Ken </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ken;

You seem to be well versed on this subject.

For future reference, I've added you comments to the EMS files I keep on my laptop.

Thanks,
-Tom