Bad Day

-Grumpy- · 07-20-2016, 05:52 PM

Well, this has been a bad day for me... I have a 2014 Itasca Meridian 40U. I have been traveling the USA since March, slowly working my way to Forest City Iowa where I have to be September 12 for several warranty repairs and service.

Today, on the way to Boise, ID, about 20 miles out, the engine light turned on. I checked everything I could check (oil, transmissions, etc.) and everything works fine. I did not get any loss of horsepower, and the engine seems to be working normal. When I shut the engine off, I wait several minutes and then turn the key to the first click so that it does an engine / system check. Nothing else is lit up. Only the engine light stays on. Is there any way of finding a code? Any suggestions? I have 12,900 miles. I had the engine completely serviced at 6,000 miles before our trip.

Then I arrive at the campground... It's in the mid 90s here. I turn all three AC's on. The rear AC is putting out heat. I shut off the breaker (under the bed), waited a little bit, and then turned it back on. I hear the compressor for only a few seconds and then the compressor shuts off. The fan continues to run. Is there a reset somewhere? Any suggestions?

Any recommendations for a good dealer in Boise. The rear AC unit should be covered under warranty since I reported the issue to Winnebago prior to my warranty expiring. I have always had problems with the rear AC acting up. If not, at least I have an extended warranty.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Rick

plasma800 · 07-20-2016, 06:18 PM

A freightliner shop can pull that code for you.

You can use this map to locate one. https://www.freightlinertrucks.com/D...93869018554688

BVThunder · 07-20-2016, 06:19 PM

As for problem one with the idiot light. I would kill all chassis power with the battery disconnect switch for at least 30 seconds and turn it back on. A similar thing happened to our 2007 HR Endeavor on its first trip. Never came back one for nine years.

cdrprn · 07-20-2016, 07:38 PM

We had good luck with a Camping World once for a electrical problem as a last resort when travelling in your area. Any mobile repair service should be able to diagnose your electrical fault. But I feel your pain my friend. Today arrived at campground and had to put our bedroom slide out to get my wallet out of the dresser when checking in. Forgot to put slide back in and hit a tree when pulling into our space. Slide now stuck open and all the interior trim popped off and I can see a lot of bent metal things. I hope your issue gets fixed soon but I'm headed for a big thank you from the credit card company. Best of luck for a speedy repair.

Wroughtnharv · 07-20-2016, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdrprn

We had good luck with a Camping World once for a electrical problem as a last resort when travelling in your area. Any mobile repair service should be able to diagnose your electrical fault. But I feel your pain my friend. Today arrived at campground and had to put our bedroom slide out to get my wallet out of the dresser when checking in. Forgot to put slide back in and hit a tree when pulling into our space. Slide now stuck open and all the interior trim popped off and I can see a lot of bent metal things. I hope your issue gets fixed soon but I'm headed for a big thank you from the credit card company. Best of luck for a speedy repair.

You get my double doggone darn award for the day. I would be physically ill.

Texasranger · 07-20-2016, 07:55 PM

As stated above kill battery and wait 30"seconds. Will prolly clear it up.

On the AC 99 percent of the time it's the start capacitor. Easy fix if your mechanically minded. RV repair facility should be able to replace. Normally less than $100.

Texasranger · 07-20-2016, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdrprn

We had good luck with a Camping World once for a electrical problem as a last resort when travelling in your area. Any mobile repair service should be able to diagnose your electrical fault. But I feel your pain my friend. Today arrived at campground and had to put our bedroom slide out to get my wallet out of the dresser when checking in. Forgot to put slide back in and hit a tree when pulling into our space. Slide now stuck open and all the interior trim popped off and I can see a lot of bent metal things. I hope your issue gets fixed soon but I'm headed for a big thank you from the credit card company. Best of luck for a speedy repair.

We're pulling for you. Rough day.

-Grumpy- · 07-20-2016, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texasranger

As stated above kill battery and wait 30"seconds. Will prolly clear it up.

On the AC 99 percent of the time it's the start capacitor. Easy fix if your mechanically minded. RV repair facility should be able to replace. Normally less than $100.

I will kill the chassis battery tomorrow morning when it is much cooler. It's in the mid 90s here and I don't want to shut everything down.

As for the rear (zone 1) AC... A few minutes after I posted my issue on this forum, I turned on Zone 1 and the AC is working again. ??? I wonder what the cause was??? It has gone from 98F to 77F. Hopefully I can get it down to 74F for the night. Zone 2 and 3 should be able to pump enough cool air to the bedroom to make for a comfortable sleep.

THanks for your response. I will post an update tomorrow after I shut the chassis batteries down, as suggested.

THanks...

Rick

-Grumpy- · 07-20-2016, 08:14 PM

OK... I have noticed this a few times. When the AC in Zone 1 was only re-circulating air and the compressor was not working, I checked the PowerLine Enegery Management System and noticed that Front AC was pulling 10A, Middle AC was pulling 13A and the Rear AC 0A, even though the fan was running with the Rear AC.

Now that the REAR AC is working, it still shows 0A. I wonder if the EMS is wired correctly? The Rear AC should show come power/

MurphyMan · 07-20-2016, 08:27 PM

I rented a Winnebago last year and the engine light came on. Took it to Auto Zone, they hooked there gizmo up to the OBD connector to read the code. Turned out to be a bad O2 sensor.

So, take it to an auto parts store for free before you go through the hassle of finding a dealer.

Jim_HiTek · 07-20-2016, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -Grumpy-

OK... I have noticed this a few times. When the AC in Zone 1 was only re-circulating air and the compressor was not working, I checked the PowerLine Enegery Management System and noticed that Front AC was pulling 10A, Middle AC was pulling 13A and the Rear AC 0A, even though the fan was running with the Rear AC.

Now that the REAR AC is working, it still shows 0A. I wonder if the EMS is wired correctly? The Rear AC should show come power/

The device that reads current going to the rear AC is totally separate from the actual AC (it's just a coil that is around the hot wire going to the AC - no physical connection) so you can't draw any conclusions from the 0 Amps reading. Especially since the fan is running.

ChasA · 07-21-2016, 06:31 AM

Grumpy, are you on 50 amp shore power? I ask because I think that normally the EMS does not show amps when on 50 amp. At least that's the way mine works.

DancinCampers · 07-21-2016, 08:27 AM

You can retrieve your check engine or stop engine code(s) using your dash display, BUT only before you shut engine off.

When you get a light, pull over to safe area, make sure that none of the display items are highlighted

-Hold toggle to the right until setup menu appears, release
-toggle down to diagnostics, toggle right
-toggle down to engine diagnostics, toggle right
-screen will indicate retrieving codes, then indicate the number of active codes
-toggle right to retrieve first active code, write it down
-repeat to retrieve additional codes, if active

Call freightliner 24/7 and they will tell you what the codes mean.

If you shut off engine, the codes become inactive , and you can't retrieve them this way.

D Lindy · 07-21-2016, 09:13 AM

Why does everyone call Freightliner when the engine is a Cummins, and that is what's throwing the codes? IMO I'd be calling Cummins to get the best correct answer to what the codes mean. Make sure you have your engine ser# ready also.

OLYLEN · 07-21-2016, 09:14 AM

Pickup a scan gauge, it's plug and play. I think your diesel so Scan Gauge D or gas Scan Gauge II. About $160 and it will read codes and reset, nice thing is it gives you 4 gauges of you choice that the coach is putting out in the real digital out put. This give a spare of any g I've and any you don't have on the dash that is out put. As said it will read the code so you can see what the problem might or might not be and you can reset the offending code in caseit is an anomaly, if not the coach will reset the code again.
No affiliation, just have had both versions and have the gas version now.

LEN

Texasranger · 07-21-2016, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DancinCampers

You can retrieve your check engine or stop engine code(s) using your dash display, BUT only before you shut engine off.

When you get a light, pull over to safe area, make sure that none of the display items are highlighted

-Hold toggle to the right until setup menu appears, release
-toggle down to diagnostics, toggle right
-toggle down to engine diagnostics, toggle right
-screen will indicate retrieving codes, then indicate the number of active codes
-toggle right to retrieve first active code, write it down
-repeat to retrieve additional codes, if active

Call freightliner 24/7 and they will tell you what the codes mean.

If you shut off engine, the codes become inactive , and you can't retrieve them this way.

That's some great information there. Thanks

Texasranger · 07-21-2016, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D Lindy

Why does everyone call Freightliner when the engine is a Cummins, and that is what's throwing the codes? IMO I'd be calling Cummins to get the best correct answer to what the codes mean. Make sure you have your engine ser# ready also.

The same reason I take my Dodge Ram with Cummins to a Dodge dealer.
Cummins has no repair facilities that I'm aware of.

D Lindy · 07-21-2016, 04:07 PM

Texasranger, Almost any city of any side has a Cummins repair shop, we even have a large Cummins facility in Buffalo NY. You can call ANY facility to get the meaning/problems defined by your codes as long as you have your engine ser# handy.

-Grumpy- · 07-21-2016, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChasA

Grumpy, are you on 50 amp shore power? I ask because I think that normally the EMS does not show amps when on 50 amp. At least that's the way mine works.

Yes ChasA... I am on 50 AMP. Anyhow, my Zone 1 AC worked correctly all night long and today. Weird...

Thanks for your response.

Rick

-Grumpy- · 07-21-2016, 10:57 PM

Here is the scoop... First thing this morning, I shut off the chassis batteries for a couple of minutes. I then allowed the engine to go through the self check and I still got the yellow / orange check engine light.

I called the Winnebago service number, and was on hold 45 minutes and no agent answered... I then called a local Winnebago dealer in Boise. They referred me to Western Idaho Freight Liner. I called Freightliner and they asked me to bring my coach to them so that they could read the error code. I was told that within 2 hours of my arrival, a technician will hook me up and get a code. Of course, as soon as I arrived at Freightliner, the check engine line went out LOL LOL.

I still wanted the error code checked. In 2 hours and 1 minute, I received the results of the code error, which dealt with an EGR (emissions?) error. I was told there is an update to resolve the false error; however, I already had the newest update. They were confused. Bottom line, I really did have a module that was bad so they rushed off to Cummins to get me a replacement. At least other software was updated and 7 hours later, I left Freightliner as a Happy Camper.

My cost was ZERO since everything was still under warranty. If anyone is in the Boise area and needs Freightliner, I recommend the one I went to.

Thanks to everyone that helped me out.

Rick