All 3 Batteries Dead - Page 2

aauummm · 08-02-2015, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grtharris

TJ311, according to the WBGO drawings for your coach you have a Battery Isolation Manager which along with other things will keep both the chassis and the coach batteries charged when connected to shore power.

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_183488.pdf

Here is a link to the Battery Isolation Manager relay. Your coach uses the 225 amp unit.

http://www.precisioncircuitsinc.com/...nager-RevF.pdf

Good sleuthing grt. Looks like Winnebago switched from the MOBAC to the Battery Isolation Manager somewhere between 2010-2014. From the drawings the Manager is still located behind the same plate as mine. But that doesn't matter because he has no worries, as you say, both house and chassis batteries will be charged.

TJ311 · 08-05-2015, 05:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aauummm

Good sleuthing grt. Looks like Winnebago switched from the MOBAC to the Battery Isolation Manager somewhere between 2010-2014. From the drawings the Manager is still located behind the same plate as mine. But that doesn't matter because he has no worries, as you say, both house and chassis batteries will be charged.

Ok I'm home and I checked. I do have the Battery Isolation Manager and it is behind the panel you indicated. So the RV has been plugged in a couple of days. I used a voltmeter to check them. My 2 house batteries are reading 3.94 VDC and the chassis battery is reading 2.31 VDC. Will it take a while to completely charge them fully?

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm learning a lot!!!!

twinboat · 08-05-2015, 05:32 AM

Your batteries are not charging at all. There should be a reading of at least 12 volts within a few hours of charging.

Make sure you are getting power to the RV from the plug you are using. If it has a GFCI, it may have popped. Many do, hooked to RV's. If it popped try plugging into a dinning room outlet, not protected by a GFCI.

Another possibility is that your charger circuit breaker is not on or it blew a fuse.

And third, you may need to jump one battery to get the charger to activate. Some don't charge if the batteries are run down as low as yours are. If you have power to the charger, pick up a cheap 30 amp charger to throw on for a few hours.

TJ311 · 08-05-2015, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

Your batteries are not charging at all. There should be a reading of at least 12 volts within a few hours of charging.

Make sure you are getting power to the RV from the plug you are using. If it has a GFCI, it may have popped. Many do, hooked to RV's. If it popped try plugging into a dinning room outlet, not protected by a GFCI.

Another possibility is that your charger circuit breaker is not on or it blew a fuse.

And third, you may need to jump one battery to get the charger to activate. Some don't charge if the batteries are run down as low as yours are. If you have power to the charger, pick up a cheap 30 amp charger to throw on for a few hours.

Thanks for the reply. I'm positive I'm getting power to the RV. No breakers popped. I'm going to run to wal mart and grab a 30 amp charger. Do I need to disconnect shore power or switch the battery disconnect switches before I begin charging with the 30 amp charger?

twinboat · 08-05-2015, 05:56 AM

No, if the system needs a boost from another charger, it will kick in and take over. Don't leave the extra charger on for more then 8 hours or so.

Do you have the battery switch's on now. That could be the problem, if they are off.

I am not sure this will help, but at least it will get some power into your batteries. They should never be stored dead.

aauummm · 08-05-2015, 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

Your batteries are not charging at all. There should be a reading of at least 12 volts within a few hours of charging.

Make sure you are getting power to the RV from the plug you are using. If it has a GFCI, it may have popped. Many do, hooked to RV's. If it popped try plugging into a dinning room outlet, not protected by a GFCI.

Another possibility is that your charger circuit breaker is not on or it blew a fuse.

And third, you may need to jump one battery to get the charger to activate. Some don't charge if the batteries are run down as low as yours are. If you have power to the charger, pick up a cheap 30 amp charger to throw on for a few hours.

According to the Battery Isolator specs, the Isolator prevents the batteries from discharging too low (typically isolating the batteries when they fall to 10 volts). Somehow, the batteries discharged below that threshold, the Isolator didn't isolate, the batteries just kept discharging.

With his being so low, there is a real bad problem there. Jumping the battery to get the charger to activate is a good idea. Any more ideas?

TJ311 · 08-05-2015, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aauummm

According to the Battery Isolator specs, the Isolator prevents the batteries from discharging too low (typically isolating the batteries when they fall to 10 volts). Somehow, the batteries discharged below that threshold, the Isolator didn't isolate, the batteries just kept discharging.

With his being so low, there is a real bad problem there. Jumping the battery to get the charger to activate is a good idea. Any more ideas?

I went ahead and pulled the battery. I'm taking it to Autozone for check out and charging.

TJ311 · 08-05-2015, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aauummm

According to the Battery Isolator specs, the Isolator prevents the batteries from discharging too low (typically isolating the batteries when they fall to 10 volts). Somehow, the batteries discharged below that threshold, the Isolator didn't isolate, the batteries just kept discharging.

With his being so low, there is a real bad problem there. Jumping the battery to get the charger to activate is a good idea. Any more ideas?

Well ended up having to get a new battery. Autozone charged my old one for 90 minutes and it wasn't charging. Got the replacement battery home and installed it. When I cranked the engine over, I heard a loud click from the battery compartment. I think it must have been that battery charging circuitry. Now I've confirmed that both house batteries are indeed charging off the shore power. They were at 5 vdc before I cranked the engine and now they're reading 12.5 vdc with the shore power connected and engine off. I pray that the house batteries are ok, because those are NOT cheap! Thanks everyone for your input. Greatly appreciated. I'll report back and let you know if the house batteries charge.

grtharris · 08-05-2015, 03:26 PM

TJ311, just a note, the batteries will not charge if there associated battery disconnect is enabled.

TJ311 · 08-05-2015, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grtharris

TJ311, just a note, the batteries will not charge if there associated battery disconnect is enabled.

I have the batteries connected for charging. They're making progress. Thank you.

aauummm · 08-05-2015, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TJ311

Well ended up having to get a new battery. Autozone charged my old one for 90 minutes and it wasn't charging. Got the replacement battery home and installed it. When I cranked the engine over, I heard a loud click from the battery compartment. I think it must have been that battery charging circuitry. Now I've confirmed that both house batteries are indeed charging off the shore power. They were at 5 vdc before I cranked the engine and now they're reading 12.5 vdc with the shore power connected and engine off. I pray that the house batteries are ok, because those are NOT cheap! Thanks everyone for your input. Greatly appreciated. I'll report back and let you know if the house batteries charge.

Too bad on the battery, but good that you found the problem and found that the battery isolator manager works!

rjadams · 09-29-2018, 12:53 PM

I installed a Trick-L start on my 2012 Vista 26p, all 3 batteries still go dead. Had system checked for phantom leaks and none found.

JoeC · 09-30-2018, 10:10 PM

Sorry to hear about your battery problem. They may have been needing to be replaced anyway, especially if they are original and 3 years or more old. They are definitely shot now.

I would bet dollars to donuts that shore power (or generator) does not charge the starter battery. They are supposed to stay separated to keep you from losing all battery power. However, as you have just experienced, you lost them all separately through different loads. Remember, the engine computer alone drains about .1 amp continuously from the starter battery. Smoke and gas detectors also drain a small amount (milliwatts) from the coach battery(ies) continuously unless you use the battery disconnect switch. This will potentially save your coach batteries for a while at least as they lose power anyway just by sitting idle and disconnected.

There is a product from LSL Products named Amp-L-Start which is a charger that will charge your starter battery from the power converter / charger while on shore power or generator but not take anything from the coach battery(ies) if there is no external power source. Most RVs will charge the starter and coach batteries using the engine's alternator through a battery isolation solenoid, also known as battery boost or auxiliary. Turning the starter key to "on" will energize this solenoid and connect starter and coach batteries together, therefore enabling charging of all batteries while driving. However, the reverse does not happen while on shore power or generator. Enter, Amp-L-Start. Remember, the battery disconnect will do just that and prevent charging or discharging from any source.

jerichorick · 10-03-2018, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TJ311

Hi Folks - I'm still somewhat of a newbie and I have a question concerning my batteries (2 house and 1 chassis) in my 2014 Vista 27N. Found out today that all 3 batteries had died. Must have left a light on or something. Was not plugged into shore power. (I've just moved from Dallas to Deltona and have not had my 30 amp shore plug installed yet). Anyway... I now have the coach plugged to my garage 20 amp wall plug with a pig tail on the cord. I'm pretty sure this will charge my house batteries but will it charge my chassis battery? If it doesn't, can I just jumper the chassis battery to a house battery to get her started and then let it run for a while to charge the chassis battery? Or should I just pull the chassis battery and take it to autozone to get charged? Thanks for any help!! This forum is pretty awesome!

This might help, page 6 and 7: https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram...ire_183487.pdf
And in this one I see a Battery Isolation Manager which, if I am correct, will automatically select the battery that requires charging: https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram...ire_183488.pdf
Hope these help.
Rick