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Old 04-25-2017, 07:19 AM   #1
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Additional Batteries in a lx27n

Looking for experienced addvice on picking a spot for additional batteries to our new coach. We plan on removing the 2 stock batteries and installing 4 AGM batteries.

Thanks
Darryl "MidMoNDN"
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:58 PM   #2
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Same Question

I will be looking forward to these replies, as I want to do the same thing, and have the same rig. Can AGMs be stored on their side? Do you think you will have to change out the charger?

Sorry not to have the experienced answer as to where to put them, but under the bed might be ideal, I was thinking...
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Old 04-26-2017, 09:05 AM   #3
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Whatever you do if you are going to AGMs don't buy the cheap priced China made kind, they won't last any longer than flooded lead acid batteries do, if even that long.

I went from the two original Winnebago Group 24 batteries to four batteries. I stayed with flooded lead acid deep cycle batteries, IMO they are the most cost effective.

I put two Group 28 where the OEM Group 24s were. Relocated the almost new Group 24s to the front drivers side compartment using two Group 24 vented battery boxes. Used separate 1/0 battery cable runs for the positives and negatives for the relocated batteries.

I added a Victron BMV-700 Battery Monitor that includes a 500 Amp DC shunt and replaced the OEM converter charger to a larger 100 Amp output one at the same time so I could bulk charge the the larger battery bank faster when running the generator during generator hours when boondocking.
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Old 04-29-2017, 06:06 AM   #4
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charger

Randy
How did the remove and replace of your charger go. I am planing to install a Magnum Energy MS2012 inverter / charger.

Darryl "MidMoNDN"
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Old 04-29-2017, 08:50 AM   #5
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Randy
How did the remove and replace of your charger go. I am planing to install a Magnum Energy MS2012 inverter / charger.

Darryl "MidMoNDN"
The OEM 45 Amp DC max output converter charger is behind the breaker box under the bed and has a heavy duty grounded cord that is plugged into an integrated outlet in the breaker box that is from a dedicated 15 amp breaker. I removed it well insulating the ends of the now un-terminated 12 volt wires.

I ran 12/2 Romex terminated in a 15 A male plug that goes into the same integrated outlet in the breaker box the OEM converter cord used, run to the Xantrex 1000 Inverter location that already had direct 12 volt wire runs to the battery compartment that were sized for 150 Amps DC. I removed the Xantrex 1000 and located the 100 Amp DC max output converter charger there.

New 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter was mounted in the front passenger compartment by the entry door on the wall facing the batteries. The output of the 2000 watt inverter runs to three 20 A DPDT hot-neutral transfer switches, one in line with the microwave in that branch circuit, two more in line with the AC convenience outlet branch circuits. I wanted all the user outlets and the microwave to get AC from the inverter for convenience when boondocking.


All that said, you will have to design a different solution since you are using an inverter/charger with built in transfer switch ($$$$) vs. my arrangement with separate converter/charger and inverter ($$$).

#1 - You will still want to disconnect the OEM converter/charger I don't think it would be a good idea to have two both trying to manage the same batteries.

#2 - When your Inverter/Charger has an AC source and is in bulk charge mode it can draw up to 1,000 Watts AC power and so it is still a good idea to have it on a separate breaker like the OEM converter/charger was. So even though it has an internal transfer switch you may still want to feed its AC output to other branch circuits using external transfer switches, sized as big or bigger as the branch circuit breakers. You need one transfer switch per branch circuit you want to feed with the inverter. Vista only has 2 15 Amp breakered convenience outlet branch circuits. IMO this is best way because it maintains the ability to draw full power from each branch circuit when on normal shore power.

#3 - I also added a 3rd transfer switch between the power management system and the microwave so I could run the microwave from the inverter. But not sure I would do this again. I can only run the microwave about 60 seconds before at the high DC current draw required the inverter does low voltage shutdown, even with fully charged batteries. But, it does allow me to use the 120 V exhaust fan and rangetop light that are integrated into the microwave when the inverter is on.
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Old 04-30-2017, 11:44 AM   #6
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Thanks Randy

I am a little confused on the need for individual branch circuit Transfer switches. I will try to research this a little more with the charger / inverter manufactures. I believe the only circuits not on the new Inverter will be the AC and Micro wave.

Thanks for the input
Darryl
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Old 04-30-2017, 12:15 PM   #7
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Thanks Randy

I am a little confused on the need for individual branch circuit Transfer switches. I will try to research this a little more with the charger / inverter manufactures. I believe the only circuits not on the new Inverter will be the AC and Micro wave.

Thanks for the input
Darryl
I don't know how much Solar and Battery storage you are planning. But in normal sized Solar systems other loads not on Inverter would be the Refrigerator Electric Mode Heating Element, and the Hot Water Heater Electric Mode Heating Element. In Vista the HWH and Microwave share one 20 Amp breaker and there is a Load Management Box in series that interrupts power to the Hot Water Heating Element when it senses that the Microwave is operating.

If you wire the inverter in front of the entire electric panel, then these will all see inverter power. That said, you could manually disable the Refrigerator Electric Mode from the Norcold control panel and you could manually switch off the Electric Mode switch on the Water Heater.

The brute force way to handle this to have one AC panel with breakers fed thru the inverter, and a separate AC panel with breakers NOT fed thru the inverter.
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