Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-31-2018, 03:17 PM   #1
Winnebago Master
 
AJMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Apache Junction, AZ
Posts: 1,244
Adding another solar panel

My Fuse came with 2 factory installed 100 watt flexible solar panels and I thought about adding at least one more flexible panel. Not being handy with tools I contacted my local Winnebago dealer's service advisor for an estimate and was told adding one flexible panel to the existing setup would cost $1350.

The RV currently has a 3 port plug on top with only 2 ports in use and the system is rated for 510 watts so I assume the entire job is installing the panel and hooking it up to the existing port, so $1350 seems at least twice as much as it should cost and that has led me to start thinking about DIY. My main problem is how to do the install. Is there a decent way to do it without drilling? If I need to drill holes, how can I tell where to drill? And how deep?

I really worry about converting my RV into a moving shower when it rains so I want to be very careful but have no idea where to look for information. Perhaps someone who has done this can offer some ideas?

I know that the flexible panels are not as long lasting as the rigid ones but I thought I would go with the flexible because the existing 2 are flexible and I would prefer to do as little drilling as possible, and none if that is at all possible.
AJMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 03:48 PM   #2
Site Team
 
creativepart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 7,752
You can add another solar panel yourself for between $150 and $450 - Depending on where you buy it. Your existing panels and the 3-port plug in portal are from Zamp. If you buy from them it will be plug and play. The only problem is Zamp is one of the most expensive. A 100w Zamp panel will be about $400.

You can buy a similar 100w panel on Amazon from Renergy or other company for about $120. But it's not exactly plug and play because the 3-port connector on the roof won't accept the MC-4 connectors on the non-zamp panel.

WBGO installed "flexible" panels and you can still go that route but it's not recommended any more as Flat Panels are more efficient and subject to less problems.

Mounting with VHB tape (using metal panel mounts) will work fine. But drilling to mount the panels is no problem either. You'll put Dicor (caulk-like material) down under the mounts. Drill the holes and screw in the short wood screws and then cover the screw heads completely with Dicor and it will be completely water proof.

Either way works fine and is super easy.

If you don't mind spending $400 to get a panel that plugs right in without any electrical work give Zamp a call for information. If you want to save $300 and are handy with soldering wires do more research on this subject. There's lots out there.

Here's a video on the wiring and plugging in part. If you look around YouTube you'll find plenty about using VHB tape or drilling and sealing with Dicor.

__________________
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
creativepart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 04:08 PM   #3
Winnebago Camper
 
Koja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Currently western wa, but soon all 50 States
Posts: 48
FYI make sure to use the VHB tape or you will create a electrolysis issue and cause your coach's elec service to degreed
Koja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 05:28 PM   #4
Winnebago Master
 
AJMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Apache Junction, AZ
Posts: 1,244
Thanks for this.

> But it's not exactly plug and play because the 3-port connector on the roof won't accept the MC-4 connectors on the non-zamp panel.

Yes, so exactly how do you go about converting the MC4 connectors to the plugin required for Zamp? Is there some web page with that information? I have done soldering in the past, but I was never able to create a decent solder joint. Still, I could try if I knew how to wire it.

I will look on the internet for some information about how to convert the plug.

> Mounting with VHB tape

I will do a Google search and see what that involves as well.

> you can still go that route

There is no roof rack on my RV so I thought I might try the flexible panels and see if I can glue them to the roof. I know this is not ideal, but then neither is the existing installation. I already have 2 panels flat on the roof, Perhaps a matching third will be OK until I redo the whole thing with rigid panels in a couple of years.

> But drilling to mount the panels is no problem either.

This is my main concern. I don't want to poke holes in the ceiling of the RV so I don't know how deep to drill the holes. I don't know where I should drill them since I don't want to drill into any existing wiring that might be running though the ceiling area.

> Here's a video on the wiring and plugging in part.

It was a good video, but he skipped the part about converting the plug and that was the part I was most interested in finding out about.

In any case it is clear that I need to do some more research before I do any actual work on the RV, but all of this has given me enough information to get started. Thanks for all of this.
AJMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 05:45 PM   #5
Site Team
 
creativepart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 7,752
The Zamp panel uses a plug called SAE (Society of American Engineers). Everyone else uses MC-4 connectors. If you look online you can find SAE connectors that have a short 12" or so pigtail of plain wire. Then you'd simply cut off the MC-4 connector, or order your panels without a connector, and solder on the pigtail on the SAE connector.

You're simply changing the plug on the end from one style to another. It's easy, but BE AWARE to keep the Polarity correct. The Positive wire on the panel has to go to the shielded side of the SAE connector - just like he shows in the video. And, obviously the negative wire on the panel goes to the unshielded side of the SAE connector.

The holes you'd drill in the roof would be simply starter holes of a smaller diameter and then the screws would create the hole. You don't need to know anything. The Dicor sealant is an RV standard sold everywhere and if you go on your roof now you'll see it around everything that's mounted up there. It's strong goop and self-leveling and you use a caulking gun like for home repair to apply it under the brackets and then over the brackets. It flows and semi-hardens to fill all holes. It's super easy - you're over thinking this.

If you call Zamp and ask them I'll bet they tell you to not use flexible panels for your additional panel. But you decide for yourself. With flexible panels you put Dicor on the roof where the edge of the panel will be and press the panels down into the Dicor. You might put more Dicor on the edges of the panels. That's up to you.

Dicor holds REALLY tight.

VHB tape (it's red and it stands for Very High Bond) is simply double sided tape with really strong adhesive. It's a 3M product.
__________________
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
creativepart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 05:50 PM   #6
Site Team
 
creativepart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 7,752
Quote:
Originally Posted by Koja View Post
FYI make sure to use the VHB tape or you will create a electrolysis issue and cause your coach's elec service to degreed
Woah! On a Fiberglass roof or even a roof with a rubber membrane there is no such issue and no reason to use VHB Tape to prevent such a thing. Because it cannot occur.

Metal to plastic or rubber cannot create an electrolysis issue. Period.
__________________
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
creativepart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 06:54 PM   #7
Winnebago Camper
 
Koja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Currently western wa, but soon all 50 States
Posts: 48
that's great, but does it have metal frame work?
Koja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 07:57 PM   #8
Site Team
 
creativepart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 7,752
Does what have metal framework? The roof?

All RVs have a plywood roof base under the rubber or fiberglass. Even those with aluminum trusses. You are mounting into the plywood not the trusses.

“Electrolysis” is not an issue in the installation of solar panels on a RV roof. Please detail where you came up with this notion.
__________________
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
creativepart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 08:44 AM   #9
Winnebago Master
 
AJMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Apache Junction, AZ
Posts: 1,244
Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
It's super easy - you're over thinking this


As is typical for me when I am trying to do something new. Usually I worry and fret and then it all turns out to be relatively easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
If you call Zamp and ask them I'll bet they tell you to not use flexible panels for your additional panel. But you decide for yourself. With flexible panels you put Dicor on the roof where the edge of the panel will be and press the panels down into the Dicor. You might put more Dicor on the edges of the panels. That's up to you.

Dicor holds REALLY tight.

VHB tape (it's red and it stands for Very High Bond) is simply double sided tape with really strong adhesive. It's a 3M product.
I do not think that Zamp makes flexible panels. At least their website shows only rigid panels, but I will check. I also want to make sure that a third panel would be of some help to me. I believe that the batteries will only draw what they need so if my current system with 2 panels is only drawing 3-4 amps it probably means that I have no need at the moment for a third panel. As I understand it adding a 3rd panel will not add any more current if the batteries don't need more.

We do a fair amount of dry camping, but usually only for 1 or 2 nights in a row so any traveling we do between campsites should charge the house batteries enough for the next dry campsite.

Do you use both Dicor and VHB tape? Or only one of the two?
AJMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 09:23 AM   #10
Site Team
 
creativepart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 7,752
Your Solar controller controls the amount of power sent to the batteries. The less charging they need the less power is sent to them. That's how the system keeps from overcharging your batteries.

You should only draw your batteries down to 50% at the most. So, if you have a 200 AH battery bank you only should use 100 ah out of it. And the fewer times you draw it down that much the longer your batteries will last.

So, more panels will do a better job of keeping up with the current loads during the daylight hours. Only you can determine if you need more solar based on your usage. Most folks feel that more is better. But it's not always needed.

In general it's Dicor OR VHB tape. The tape takes the place of screws and so there are no holes to cover with Dicor. I do know that some people use Dicor only - no screws and no tape - because Dicor sticks REALLY WELL, as everyone that's ever removed something from their roof that's seated with Dicor knows.

I know I have replaced a roof TV antenna on my roof and it had screws with Dicor under the antenna mount and Dicor over the whole base of the antenna and the mounting screws. Even after cutting the dried Dicor and removing the screws it was difficult to get the base to release from the roof.

I used both screws and Dicor to hold down my solar panels - the tape you see on the wires is called Eternabond and it's like tape with Dicor built in:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	RV Solar3.jpg
Views:	202
Size:	265.7 KB
ID:	170502  
__________________
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
creativepart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 09:48 AM   #11
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 3,571
Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
Your Solar controller controls the amount of power sent to the batteries. The less charging they need the less power is sent to them. That's how the system keeps from overcharging your batteries.

You should only draw your batteries down to 50% at the most. So, if you have a 200 AH battery bank you only should use 100 ah out of it. And the fewer times you draw it down that much the longer your batteries will last.

So, more panels will do a better job of keeping up with the current loads during the daylight hours. Only you can determine if you need more solar based on your usage. Most folks feel that more is better. But it's not always needed.

In general it's Dicor OR VHB tape. The tape takes the place of screws and so there are no holes to cover with Dicor. I do know that some people use Dicor only - no screws and no tape - because Dicor sticks REALLY WELL, as everyone that's ever removed something from their roof that's seated with Dicor knows.

I know I have replaced a roof TV antenna on my roof and it had screws with Dicor under the antenna mount and Dicor over the whole base of the antenna and the mounting screws. Even after cutting the dried Dicor and removing the screws it was difficult to get the base to release from the roof.

I used both screws and Dicor to hold down my solar panels - the tape you see on the wires is called Eternabond and it's like tape with Dicor built in:
To the best of my knowledge, VHB tape is a 3m product not Dicor. Dicor sealant is formulated for rubber roofs, not fiberglass roofs (read Dicor's own specs). You are best served by using the sealant/adhesive specified by Winnebago for your rig:

https://winnebagoind.com/diagram/Sealant.htm

Since the callout sheet may not show solar panel mountings you can decide based on similar roof fixture mountings.

Here's a video on the subject fyi:
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 10:14 AM   #12
Winnebago Master
 
AJMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Apache Junction, AZ
Posts: 1,244
Well, that is interesting and informative.

I looked at the spec sheet but all it had was a Winnebago part number: 131264-03-CHT

Is that something that can only be bought through Winnebago? Or is it some standard stuff I could get at HomeDepot under another name?
AJMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 11:00 AM   #13
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 3,571
According to Winnebago, it's Nuco 311, which may be available elsewhere. In addition to Winnebago, it should be available from Lichtsinn or your local Winnebago dealer. It's also available on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/NUCO-Leveling.../dp/B00ODIJRO0
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 11:39 AM   #14
Site Team
 
creativepart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 7,752
I've heard other say that Dicor is not for use on fiberglass roofs - though I think the majority of folks use it - fiberglass roofs or not. I should look into this I suppose. I've always used Dicor - but it's an old habit.

That video was showing to not use Dicor over existing Silicone sealant. It did not say that it isn't good for Fiberglass roofs. Also, in the video I've never seen Dicor look, act or remove like the sealant shown in the video.

I did look at the call out sheet and they say to use the 131264-03-CHT sealant on roof mounted solar panels.

I'll need to look into this topic more - but I was on the roof yesterday washing my solar panels and the Dicor is strong, solid, uncracked and holding really well.
__________________
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
creativepart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 12:14 PM   #15
Winnebago Owner
 
747Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 104
I have been using Dicor for over 15 years on WBGO roofs. I have noticed a little cracking on the surface after a few years, but noting beyond that. The stuff stays where I put it! The stuff WBGO puts on, does not show any cracking and seems to stay a little more pliable.


I am in N. Cali and my RV is in full sun, full time.
__________________
Chris and Sharon Dellinger
2016 Adventurer 35P, F-53, 24K
2000 Ford Ranger Toad
747Driver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 02:07 PM   #16
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 3,571
Quote:
Originally Posted by 747Driver View Post
I have been using Dicor for over 15 years on WBGO roofs. I have noticed a little cracking on the surface after a few years, but noting beyond that. The stuff stays where I put it! The stuff WBGO puts on, does not show any cracking and seems to stay a little more pliable.


I am in N. Cali and my RV is in full sun, full time.
So, if I read your post correctly, even though you use Dicor, Winnebago's specified sealant works better.

I doubt that Dicor will damage a fiberglass roof and, used on top of things like roof vents, etc. to cover screw heads, it's going to be as effective on a Winnebago as it would on any other rig. It's between a fitting and the roof that my clear preference, and recommendation, is to use Winnebago's specified sealant. They chose them for a reason, which is evident by there being different sealants being specified for different uses and locations. Here's a write-up that might be informative:

https://witclub.com/images/media/tip...r-May%2016.pdf

i don't know if it's their marketing or just that it's readily available in RV stores but it amazes me that Dicor is such a common first choice for pretty much everything.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2018, 02:18 PM   #17
Winnebago Owner
 
747Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 104
You are indeed reading it right. If I plan ahead and am in need of a sealant, I would use the WBGO recommended. If I procrastinate and need it now, I run to CW and buy Dicor.
__________________
Chris and Sharon Dellinger
2016 Adventurer 35P, F-53, 24K
2000 Ford Ranger Toad
747Driver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2018, 05:45 AM   #18
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 13
System Capacity

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJMike View Post
My Fuse came with 2 factory installed 100 watt flexible solar panels and I thought about adding at least one more flexible panel.
I am curious...what is the system capacity and the rest of the set up, battery bank amp hours, etc. Do you try and run the AC off the solar system? I've been thinking of adding solar to my RV for NASCAR races, so I can use 110v items during quiet hours.
valsamik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2018, 08:32 AM   #19
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 3,571
A/C on solar is a challenge and a big investment, this video gives a good overview:

__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2018, 12:35 PM   #20
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 13
Thanks for the info BobC. I was looking more at TV or coffee maker. I don't use the AC unless on power pole or generator power during the day. I wanted to be able to charge batteries during the day without having to run generator unattended while at the race track.
valsamik is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
panel, solar, solar panel


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Adding Additional Solar Panels to 2017 View hgreenberg Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics 2 03-18-2018 11:16 AM
View/Navion upgrade to Lithium Batteries and adding solar panels RonR Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics 13 11-10-2017 04:21 PM
Adding 150 w solar panel Unplanned Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics 15 06-21-2017 06:53 AM
Solar panel feeds Chassis or Coach? Paul T Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics 9 10-29-2007 10:17 AM
Solar panel Craig H Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics 16 01-19-2007 02:40 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.