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Old 07-09-2018, 02:15 PM   #1
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30 amp to 50 amp shore power conversion

2000 journey 36l currently wired with 30 amp power cord that I want to upgrade to 50 amp, transfer switch rated for 50 amp anyone successfully switch on over? Thanks Dan
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Old 07-09-2018, 07:39 PM   #2
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Typically it's not just the transfer switch you need to be thinking about. The wiring and electrical distribution panel need to also be looked at. I bet the wiring is only rated for a bit over 30A
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Old 07-09-2018, 07:57 PM   #3
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Would you mind sharing why you think you want to change from 30 Amp to 50 Amp Shore Power system?
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Old 07-10-2018, 05:02 AM   #4
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With fridge on electric, water heater and ac there is not enough power. 50 amp exponentially increases wattage, it would be nice to have the headroom on amps
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Old 07-10-2018, 08:48 AM   #5
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Here's a link to part 1 of a well-done four part Youtube video on a DIY 30 to 50 amp conversion. It's quite a bit more involved and potentially more expensive than I expected:

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Old 07-10-2018, 09:09 AM   #6
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Hi Dibbs - I did that same upgrade just a few weeks ago in my 2002 Adventurer. It wasn't that bad. The hardest part was fishing the new wiring from the back (where the ATS is located) to the breaker box at the entry way steps. I found a lot of help and tips in this forum. The only bad part about looking for advice in a forum like this - without fail, regardless of what it is you're trying to do, one of the first questions you'll see if "why do you want to do that??". Believe me, it's absolutely, 100% worth the effort and cost to know that you can run anything and everything on 50amp service (120v x 50a = 6,000w x 2 legs = 12,000watts) versus 30amp (120v x 30a = 3,600 watts). Where is your breaker box located, relative to your ATS?
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Old 07-10-2018, 10:27 AM   #7
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It pretty much depends on how your RV is laid out, and how big a job that makes it that you would want to tackle.


Hopefully, yours is laid out in such a way to be easy. Good luck, please take pictures and let us follow along as you work on the project.
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:35 AM   #8
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My breaker box is in the rear at foot of the queen bed, I actually can see opening when I'm at the outside looking up at/ through the transfer switch, probably about 5 foot away,
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:37 AM   #9
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Ok, I will keep you informed, thanks
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dibbsvtx1 View Post
With fridge on electric, water heater and ac there is not enough power. 50 amp exponentially increases wattage, it would be nice to have the headroom on amps
Thanks. I had a feeling that you did not want to mess with turning off the AC water heater switch to keep from tripping the 30 amp breaker when AC is running. Another possibility to get the water heater amps off your 30 A shore cable that would have a parts cost under $ 50:

Use a 2nd shore cable you would plug into the 15 Amp receptacle on the pedestal, wired to power the hot water heater. Make from a standard 25' 12 gauge heavy duty extension cord (cut the receptacle off one end).

Put the water heater power thru a electrical box with heavy duty 15 or 20 amp rated double throw switch so you can have a "normal" position (fed by your current box hot water breaker) and "2nd shore cable" fed by the new 2nd shore cable. Use a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch to keep the two power feeds separated when both are in use - use hot on one set of contacts and neutral on the other set of contacts.

I have done this on my Vista and it works for me.
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Old 07-10-2018, 12:54 PM   #11
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On some Winnebagos, where 50 amps was an option, a lot of the components are already there. Just need to do some wiring. It's been done many times in other threads.

Here's a good starting point.
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Old 07-10-2018, 02:24 PM   #12
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Tim-
That's a link to how to remove a doghouse cover.
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:43 AM   #13
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Thanks Tim
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:58 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by WarrenJA View Post
Hi Dibbs - I did that same upgrade just a few weeks ago in my 2002 Adventurer. It wasn't that bad. The hardest part was fishing the new wiring from the back (where the ATS is located) to the breaker box at the entry way steps. I found a lot of help and tips in this forum. The only bad part about looking for advice in a forum like this - without fail, regardless of what it is you're trying to do, one of the first questions you'll see if "why do you want to do that??". Believe me, it's absolutely, 100% worth the effort and cost to know that you can run anything and everything on 50amp service (120v x 50a = 6,000w x 2 legs = 12,000watts) versus 30amp (120v x 30a = 3,600 watts). Where is your breaker box located, relative to your ATS?
Warren- If you don't mind sharing, what was your total cost breakdown? I have a 2002 Suncruiser 35U.
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:09 AM   #15
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I posted a thread on how I upgraded from 30 Amps max shore power to 45 Amps max shore power, my cost was minimal.

http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...de-351895.html
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:24 AM   #16
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Materials

Hey Bob, here's what I bought for the conversion -

I used this for a new shore power cable -
It was $2.77 per foot. I got a little more than I probably needed, but I went ahead and got 25'. I bought the 4-prong 50 amp connector at my local hardware store for right around $10, if I recall correctly.
http://www.sjoow.com/6-4-soow-600-vo...yABEgKOCPD_BwE

The new cable from the ATS to the breaker box came from Lowes. It was about $3 per foot. I got 15', and it was pretty much dead on for the length I needed. It sounds like Dibbs will need a little less, based on the proximity of his ATS to his breaker box. Oh, and I also bought flexible conduit for added protection. I probably had $10 in the conduit and fittings.

The 30/50/50/30 amp breaker was about $35. I don't recall exactly where I bought it - I'll have to do some digging for the receipt, but it wasn't too hard to find on the internet.

So total, I was probably around the $175 ballpark, after taxes and everything. The biggest expense was the shore power cable. Again, to me, well worth it.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:41 AM   #17
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I'm having trouble locating on line the breakers, 20/50 and a 50/20. The panel box is rated 100 amps, cutler hammer, the ats is rated 50 amps. I took cover off of panel box and I found out that the bus bar is dual, that's why the jumper wire is in there that would need removed. The panel box also states main breakers are to be installed in position 1 thru 4, 20/50 amp and one 50/20 amp,
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:03 PM   #18
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The breaker I bought was all one breaker. The 50's were joined so if one flipped, they both did. You're right in the it is a dual bus bar, so that the breaker slots alternate between each bus or 50 amp leg. So the two 50 amp slots on that breaker feed each bus individually, and the 30 amp slots each feed your air conditioners... one each. You just need to be sure to remove the jumper wire if/when you convert to 50 amp service.
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:16 PM   #19
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This is the breaker I used -


https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-.../dp/B00ODJ2GLA
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Old 07-11-2018, 02:28 PM   #20
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Jeff-
I'm happy to see that your 35U didn't need a new transfer switch or anything else significant, since my 2002 Suncruiser 35U should be pretty much identical. $175 is very reasonable and it sounds like a lot simpler project than I suspected based on what I saw in the video I posted.
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