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Old 01-25-2019, 12:57 AM   #1
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05 Vectra 40AD Exterior lighting questions

Trying to figure out 2 different things here on our new-to-us coach...

#1: how the heck can I disable to the DRL's? I've looked in the electrical compartment under the driver's area for either the relay or a fuse and have come up empty handed. I've also referenced the wiring diagrams and same thing, can't even find a mention of that circuit. Anyone been able to turn them off? Is it controlled by the Smart Wheel controller?

#2: why do the docking lights turn off when I release the park brake? I thought the point of these lights is to provide side lighting when parking at night? Is there a way to override the signal that turns them off when the brake is released? I could've really used them when backing the rig into it's spot at storage for the first time this past saturday in the dark...

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-25-2019, 11:13 AM   #2
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Your docking lamps should be enabled when you shift into reverse, so if you turn them on then they should light.
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Old 01-25-2019, 12:18 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by cbeierl View Post
Your docking lamps should be enabled when you shift into reverse, so if you turn them on then they should light.
That's what I thought they are supposed to do but they only turn on when the parking brake is engaged. As soon as it is released, they turn off. The only lights that come on in reverse are the reverse lights on the rear of the coach. I'm confused
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Old 01-26-2019, 07:16 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ElCaminomanT View Post
That's what I thought they are supposed to do but they only turn on when the parking brake is engaged. As soon as it is released, they turn off. The only lights that come on in reverse are the reverse lights on the rear of the coach. I'm confused
Well Sir,
I'd say, "Houston, we have a problem", for sure. Now, without trying to get too technical here, the E-brake, when applied, IS supposed to supply a ground to the HWH system for its proper operation. But, as far as I know, that's all that's tied to the e-brake system, electrically, besides any sending units for alarms etc. So, just why your docking lights are affected by ANY operation concerning the e-brake, is a new one on me. If I'm backing in some place at night, normally my RV garage, I may use them. But, I do have to remember to turn them off 'cause mine stay on, parking brake on or off.
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:16 PM   #5
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Well Sir,
I'd say, "Houston, we have a problem", for sure. Now, without trying to get too technical here, the E-brake, when applied, IS supposed to supply a ground to the HWH system for its proper operation. But, as far as I know, that's all that's tied to the e-brake system, electrically, besides any sending units for alarms etc. So, just why your docking lights are affected by ANY operation concerning the e-brake, is a new one on me. If I'm backing in some place at night, normally my RV garage, I may use them. But, I do have to remember to turn them off 'cause mine stay on, parking brake on or off.
Scott
Yeah, I've got some investigating to do on this. I did see there are two relays inside the door of the electrical compartment for the docking lights. One is simply labeled "docking lights" and the other is "trigger docking lights". I'm going to go over the wiring diagrams again to see if anything stands out.

I'm also starting to wonder if the DRL's are controlled by the Smart Wheel controller since it has control over the headlights and the running lights and can turn the headlights on if the wipers are switched on. Hmm....
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Old 01-27-2019, 10:55 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by ElCaminomanT View Post
Yeah, I've got some investigating to do on this. I did see there are two relays inside the door of the electrical compartment for the docking lights. One is simply labeled "docking lights" and the other is "trigger docking lights". I'm going to go over the wiring diagrams again to see if anything stands out.

I'm also starting to wonder if the DRL's are controlled by the Smart Wheel controller since it has control over the headlights and the running lights and can turn the headlights on if the wipers are switched on. Hmm....

DRLS: I think you might be correct regarding the smart wheel. I have the same 05 Vectra. I don't recall having daytime running lights until I started to 'play' with the headlight flash button. Now I have 'em. Nothing in the troubleshooting guide for that condition that I see. Let me know if you find anything.

https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/electr...leshooting.pdf
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:57 PM   #7
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If your RV DRL is like my 2004 Itasca Horizon (with Smart Wheel) I can't offer you a final solution, but I may be able to point you in the right direction.

First of all, I never found a DRL module or a fuse under the dash.

What I did find was a DLR/Headlight Relay located in the fuse compartment... the one found in front of the driver's side front tire... you access from outside the coach.

...And if you pull this relay then all your headlights will not work.

So, what if you removed the relay and bend back pin 87a? (If there is a pin 87a? I can't remember.)

If you do bend a relay output pin, then you will effectively create an "open circuit" and that may disable your DRL? ... or both your DRL and high beams? (TBD)


You just have to try one pin on the relay and then the other... to see if it does achieve the right effect.

My guess is that when you turn on the headlights inside the coach, by pulling on the headlight plunger, that will energize the relay coil and create a closed circuit to pin 87. So maybe if your relay utilizes 87a, then this circuit is the right one for your DRL? (I just don't know.) So you might need to experiment some.

Note 1: I don't think you want to bend back or cut pin 85, because this pin is used for ground for both your DRL and you normal headlight function.

Note 2: The attached relay diagram is not for your RV. But I am showing it as a reference on how a relay works when it's switched. Plus this drawing does not show pin 87a as being utilized, even though I think you may find a pin 87a. (Hence a 5-pin common relay.)

I don't think you can hurt anything by effectively "opening" a circuit when you bend back (or cut) any of the relay pins. So please let us know what your final solution is to cutting out the DRL from your Smart Wheel System.

I presume you want to cut the DRL to reduce the load on your alternator? Is that right or do you have another reason?

The OEM lights are very low lumins so you might like to know that I tried switching to LED headlights, but I did not like the results. So I purchased some Sylvania High Output Ultra Halogens (#9007) at Walmart and stayed with those. ...Then I gave up looking for a DRL cutout option so I will be following this thread to see how you did this.
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Old 02-20-2019, 09:18 PM   #8
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follow up;

DRLs- so far have had no luck with them, I'm pretty certain they are controlled by the Smart Wheel module. I'll have to see if there is anything that can be adjusted.

Docking lights- not sure what happened that first night because every time since, they've worked fine. they function as designed; in reverse or in neutral with the park brake applied. i will say the angle in which the lights are installed in the sidewall and the design of the lens sure doesn't put much lighting out in a flood type pattern, rather is a spot type beam. i might look into changing that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
If your RV DRL is like my 2004 Itasca Horizon (with Smart Wheel) I can't offer you a final solution, but I may be able to point you in the right direction.

First of all, I never found a DRL module or a fuse under the dash.

What I did find was a DLR/Headlight Relay located in the fuse compartment... the one found in front of the driver's side front tire... you access from outside the coach.

...And if you pull this relay then all your headlights will not work.

So, what if you removed the relay and bend back pin 87a? (If there is a pin 87a? I can't remember.)

If you do bend a relay output pin, then you will effectively create an "open circuit" and that may disable your DRL? ... or both your DRL and high beams? (TBD)


You just have to try one pin on the relay and then the other... to see if it does achieve the right effect.

My guess is that when you turn on the headlights inside the coach, by pulling on the headlight plunger, that will energize the relay coil and create a closed circuit to pin 87. So maybe if your relay utilizes 87a, then this circuit is the right one for your DRL? (I just don't know.) So you might need to experiment some.

Note 1: I don't think you want to bend back or cut pin 85, because this pin is used for ground for both your DRL and you normal headlight function.

Note 2: The attached relay diagram is not for your RV. But I am showing it as a reference on how a relay works when it's switched. Plus this drawing does not show pin 87a as being utilized, even though I think you may find a pin 87a. (Hence a 5-pin common relay.)

I don't think you can hurt anything by effectively "opening" a circuit when you bend back (or cut) any of the relay pins. So please let us know what your final solution is to cutting out the DRL from your Smart Wheel System.

I presume you want to cut the DRL to reduce the load on your alternator? Is that right or do you have another reason?

The OEM lights are very low lumins so you might like to know that I tried switching to LED headlights, but I did not like the results. So I purchased some Sylvania High Output Ultra Halogens (#9007) at Walmart and stayed with those. ...Then I gave up looking for a DRL cutout option so I will be following this thread to see how you did this.
How much better are those bulbs you installed compared to the OEM bulbs? Coming from a Kodiak based motorhome that used the ancient 4x6 sealed beams, these put out a decent amount of light albeit not great. I had changed the housings on the old moho and installed quality LED units and was pretty happy with the results. I have been looking into the LED bulbs for this one but after reading your outcome, I'm probably going to hold off for now.
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Old 02-21-2019, 02:41 AM   #9
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LED vs Ultra

I had very poor luck trying to switch to an LED for the headlight function. However, I'm sure someone out there can offer a good solution, but as for my efforts I wasted too much time and was not satisfied with the outcome. Yes the LED were better than the OEM-9007, but there were a number of reliability and possible risks to use and LED I was not willing to take.

In summary: All the negatives of going with a cheap LED solution outweighed the positives, so I returned the LEDs and bought the Ultra-9007 light from Walmart for $45 (pair)... and I am very happy with them. And I see a whole lot more! However, I wish the current draw was less.

Some high intensity LED also require a "box" or have huge heat sinks, and neither of these I wanted to deal with. Not to mention rain/water concerns and shorts.

However, even with a stronger and wider beam I get from the Ultra-9007, there is still a horrible "dead space" or "black spot" out the passenger side windshield... when I turn right at night. This black spot is located at a 45-degree angle from the right-front-corner... and everything to the right of that!!!!

My rig has a spot light on top, and it helps deal with this problem, but you have to get familiar with the remote directional buttons and that's really not a solution when you are trying to drive. Albeit, it's better than nothing.

The better solution is to buy a portable spot light you can aim-at-will! And an even better solution is to have your partner use this spot light while you drive.

On Amazon, this model pulls 8-Amps:

https://www.amazon.com/Brinkmann-800...gateway&sr=8-5

As for your side docking lights, I very much dislike that they go off when you put your tranny in park. I have been thinking about re-wring them and/or replacing them, and/or adding some additional light set-up, but I just don't back-up enough at night to move upgrade to the top of of the list. So if you find a solution, please post it for all to read.
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Old 03-28-2019, 01:29 PM   #10
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update:

docking lights still working like they're supposed to, dunno I must've goofed up.

DRLs; ended up finding info from Freightliner on how to disable them. Basically the wire that comes from the parking brake button to the headlight module in the electrical compartment needs to be cut and the side to the module needs to be grounded. The only negative that I have found is that the 'flash' feature on the Smart Wheel does not flash the headlights on and off when pressing the button with the headlights off. It still flashes them off and back on normally when the headlights are on however.

Also replaced the ORIGINAL very yellow Sylvania headlight bulbs with new Philips x-treme vision bulbs and wow what an improvement! So much better!
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:57 PM   #11
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Can you provide a few pictures on where you cut the wire to the Headlight Module, to achieve your DRL-off solution?

Have you got any ideas as to why your Smart Wheel "headlight flash" feature stopped working after you performed the "cut?"

Why did you want to away with the DRL function?
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Old 04-30-2019, 01:16 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Can you provide a few pictures on where you cut the wire to the Headlight Module, to achieve your DRL-off solution?

Have you got any ideas as to why your Smart Wheel "headlight flash" feature stopped working after you performed the "cut?"

Why did you want to away with the DRL function?
When I have an opportunity to get over to where the moho is stored and get into the electrical compartment, I'll see if I can get a picture or two. It was pretty simple to find, if I recall it is a red/white wire and has 'BRAKE' lettering printed on it. I'll verify when I look at it. We are in the process of moving from our house this month so the moho visits are on the back burner for the time being.

The smarthweel 'flash' ON never was functional before the cut. It always just flashed the lights OFF whether the DRLs were on or the headlights themselves were on. I'm going to assume it is just the configuration how Freightliner has the system wired. If the parking brake was applied, they still would not flash ON and as far as the headlight module is concerned, it thinks the parking brake is always applied with the wire grounded after the cut.

The main reason for wanting the DRLs off is for when I arrive in a camp after nightfall to not be blasting people with blinding light who may be sitting around a campfire or otherwise. I like to be able to switch off the headlights and just have the parking lights on. The DRLs come on as soon as the parking brake is released even if the headlight switch is in the parking light only position.
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Old 04-30-2019, 11:35 PM   #13
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ABSOLUTELY!

I don't like having my headlights on when I pull into a park late at night 50% of the time; and I would prefer switching on the fog lights.

Also, I don't like having the DRL on when I'm on the open highway. Why sink 10A or ??? out of your alternator when those coulombs can go to the house batteries powering up my residential refrigerator (through the inverter).

Yes... Please post a picture of the wire you cut when you have a chance. Thank you. I have been thinking about this problem and solution for over 2 years.
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