Winnebago roof complaints - Page 3

Mike I · 10-03-2003, 02:15 AM

outstanding post Capt Bill

2004 Winnebago Journey 36G

misjcy · 10-03-2003, 08:14 AM

CaptBill, great info. Thanks for the drill down on roof/J channel cut away. Really helps to understand the dynamics of the topic.

I just want the viewers of these posts to know I really love our Suncruiser and that I'm not bashing our fine products. I know some people just get their cackles raised anytime you say something even slightly reflecting a critique of the products.

For me personally, I always raise a red flag when I see things like ˜6 month inspection' or '10 year warranty to original owner', etc.

Too often companies will use these simple tactics to limit liability. It's an inexpensive way to fix their exposure to a potential problem. As you clearly pointed out, what is covered by the 10 year roof warranty would exclude any failures here due to the seal, so this does not apply in this case. Good point.

If/when we need to address the J channel sealant, I think we will use the EternaBond and do it once and for all.

Have a great weekend.

Jim

clipperbob · 10-06-2003, 03:17 PM

I wonder why Winnebago doesnt just use this Eternabond permanent solution so we don't have to?

Incidentally, I am a future Winnebago owner (2004 Brave 30W), and not just a Coachmen owner / Winne-basher. I think Winnebagos are the best designed and highest quality coaches out there.

Bob, Diane, the kid and the dogs
2001 Coachmen Catalina Sport 195 rk
2003 Jeep Rubicon
Baltimore, MD
<a href="http://www.wunderground.com/US/MD/Phoenix.html">
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traveler of california · 10-15-2003, 07:04 PM

Got the Eternabond and applied it to my coach on the cap seams and side seams. The awning rail posed only minor problems as the surface area available is very small. It is really a job for 2 people. I suggest that it be applied as soon an you buy a coach. Hope it works!

If any of you have had it applied a long time, how does it wear after bad weather, washing, etc. By the way it is hardly noticeable unless you know it is there (Except in a place or two where I fouled up).

dinotoad · 03-01-2005, 07:51 PM

Does anyone know if WB class C motorhomes have this same issue?

I have a 322R class C and I really don't understand this J channel thing. Maybe mine is different? I wish I knew how to post a picture but my rail is part number 131979-05-01A. It looks nothing like a "j".

I am also confused on the sealants. WB has sealant callout sheets on their web site and it specifies 131264-003-01A Silicone self leveling. But I understand why folks say that silicone is a bad choice. Also, the sealant on my roof does not really look like silicone to me.

I suspect that the previous owner had leaks that were repaired. The front half of the roof seams have lots of sealant that looks added. In the back half it is skimpy. I have seen no leaks. It looks like a huge job to remove the existing sealant. But if in fact it is silicone, I guess I have to?

One reason I bought WB was to get away from a rubber roof, but at least I knew what to do on the rubber roof.

ichn2go · 03-02-2005, 02:48 AM

Capt. Bill has the right 'Skinny" on the channel. 5200 is one of the best and longest lasting of marine adhesives and my old axiom of "If its good enough for a boat, its gotta be ok for a RV."

The channel concern is the same concern as the XRV tires and Awnings coming open. Now don't get me wrong I believe that all are serious when they happen. Yet often times these things get blown outta proportion as to the severity of the problem and the number of times they occur. For the thousands of MOHO's , Tires and Awnings I wonder what the % is that have the problem..Sometimes we need to deal with these things when they happen and if applying the Eternabond makes you happy go for it. I think it is a great product and just bought a roll to have on hand. Good Miles and

03-02-2005, 08:32 PM

Capt Bill says:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The J channel adhesive retains the edge of the fiberglass roof panel in the J, so if a VERY strong gust of wind hit the motorhome from the side, it would not be "flipped" out of that channel. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm sure Capt Bill's statement assumes that the edge sealant has not failed or has been repaired if it has failed. I can tell you from personal experience that a strong wind WILL flip the fiberglas edge out of the J channel. In fact, I had three quarters of the entire left side lift out of the J channel in a strong side wind. Of course the roof didn't completely peel off as it is bonded to the supporting structure as Capt Bill states, but the edge lifted off and left a 2-3" gap and I lost a substantial amount of the backing material. I assume this resulted from a failure of the edge sealant that I didn't catch. Also Capt Bill is right about WI customer service still recommending silicone sealant.

I still maintain this is/was a "Mickey Mouse" design.

RedT · 03-03-2005, 08:59 AM

CaptBill said: An elastomeric adhesive/sealant, which is an excellent adhesive, is what you need. If applied to clean and dry surfaces, it will bond tenaciously for years, and your 6 month inspection will only serve to reassure that all is well. There is also another product, made by 3M, and found in boating supply store and Home Depot and Lowes, called 5200, that I would use as a substitute. It is bright white, and when cured, is permanent. It will even cure under water."

Agree. One of the reasons for the current design of the "J" channel just might be the expansion/contraction coefficient of the aluminum and fiberglass. Regardless, if a person uses common sense inspecting and sealing the area, it will remain relatively trouble free.

By the way, Capt Bill - are you still serving, or do you just like the handle Captain?

CaptBill · 03-04-2005, 02:37 PM

Well I see that I have a lot of catching up to do, as I just returned last night from a 4 week trip to Florida

and I didn't have internet access for most of that time! While I did serve in the Air Force many years ago, and do still maintain a private pilot's license, my handle "Capt. Bill" comes from the love of boats and fishing. I hold a USCG Master's license; 50 ton with towing, and while not doing charters now, I am still current.

Beabop · 03-06-2005, 05:35 PM

We had a leak from the factory on our 2000 that my husband found and resealed. We bought another W because we couldn't find a floor plan we liked. Since we are having a slide problem, we may be sorry.

rfvermonter · 03-12-2005, 01:16 PM

I do keep an eye on the sealant, but its important to make sure the weep holes in the awning rail do not get clogged, this is what is causing a majority of leaks.

richierich · 03-12-2005, 03:29 PM

Own a 2002 Horizone, The factory removed all the caulking on both sides where the roof and side meet side. I did have a leak, above the window on the driver side front.They removed the old caulking, (only 2 years old), and recaulked. Job took 1 1/2 hrs.

The Shadow · 03-13-2005, 07:55 AM

Interesting - was that at no cost to you?

Just talked to a fellow who has another make of MH and he recently had it all recaulked and it cost him $1,000. I thought that was steep. Anyone else ever have this done out of pocket (all cap seams and windows)?

bobpie · 03-15-2005, 05:05 PM

I just had the roof seams resealed and that was $600 they said it took 5hrs to do the job. this was the dealership