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Old 08-10-2010, 12:34 PM   #41
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Our coach (see signature) just developed a small windshield leak. That shouldn't happen with only 8,000 miles on the coach! Took it to the dealer today, for other problems, and was told that it is a very common place to leak. I hope that I caught it before it gets too rusted. Joe
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:35 PM   #42
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I had the same problem .... your on the right track ... the vertical rubber seal slides up and under the top horizontal rubber seal ... this solved my leaky window problem ... hope it works for you ... ron
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:24 PM   #43
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The windshield leaks and rust is due to bad design and faulty installations. At least this is true for the 2006 Adventurer. The left and right side Trim-Roof Caps (the black trim immediately above the windshields) are designed to capture the water running off the roof front but these trim caps will also capture and hold roof debris. Once the caps are full of gunk the water will back up into the Roof Cap. If the Roof Cap is not sealed properly (which is usually the case) the water will find its way into the coach. There is a second design problem dealing with ice. When the track behind the Trim-Roof Caps fills up with melting snow and then refreezes, the adhesive holding the glass in place and the Roof Cap caulking WILL BE compromised. I resolved my problem by filling the gap between the Roof Cap and Trim Caps with 3/8” Frost King Poly Foam window sealer I purchased for a few bucks at Lowe's (SKU 77578 02428). This is truly a Winnebago design problem and not a consumer doing something wrong issue as I have heard from others. Just because you don’t see the problem doesn’t mean it is not there. For those doubting, take a few minutes to remove the black trim caps above the windshield and examine both the glass seal and the roof cap seal.

There are two things I learned about rust; how fast it travels and how it lies about its origin.
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:54 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by azloafer View Post
Our coach (see signature) just developed a small windshield leak. That shouldn't happen with only 8,000 miles on the coach! Took it to the dealer today, for other problems, and was told that it is a very common place to leak. I hope that I caught it before it gets too rusted. Joe
Update: During the next rain storm the window leaked again. Went back to the dealer and they determined that one of the five marker/clearance lights was causing the leak. They sealed all of them...no charge. It will take the next rain to determine if this did the job.

On another note, I have been pleased with LaMesa RV in Tucson. They found an air leak that Freightliner couldn't find. In fact, as I sat in the office telling the service advisor about my air problem, he said I can see that the problem is in the front because it is settling there. He made this diagnosis looking out of the office window. When I was at freightliner, they said there was no air leak to be found. It turned out to be a leaking air line in the front and LaMesa took care of it. Now the air system is back to normal. On the driver's side there is no room for window awnings because of the window height in relation to the roof. Even though the windows are tinted I chose to have the entire side windows tinted with film to keep the sun out. We just don't like living in a cave with all the blinds closed. Now with the new tint and the add-on roof air that LaMesa installed, it has made summer desert camping very comfortable. I know that I went on and on past the windshield leak report, but maybe the info will help someone else. I have to give the dealer a plug. So often the only mention of dealers is when the service is bad. It's great to find a good one. Happy travels, Joe
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:15 PM   #45
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determined that one of the five marker/clearance lights was causing the leak
I check my front clearance lamps twice a year, resealing as needed ...started that after I determined the source of water for our window leak (and upper windshield framework rusting in one spot) was a leaking clearance lamp. The rear lamps are the same kind, but the gaskets have remained firm and pliable while the front gaskets deteriorated into sponge-like rubber that sucks water under the lights rather than keeping it out.
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:53 PM   #46
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Joe,
I had the same problem with leaking windshield but mine was rust. That is on a new 2008 Destination (39W). I also had an air leak. It was the air gauge itself. When I talked to Freightliner the technician said that they had a problem with some of the gauges leaking. It was fixed under warranty, as was the windshield.
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Old 08-20-2010, 10:54 AM   #47
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Joe,
I had the same problem with leaking windshield but mine was rust. That is on a new 2008 Destination (39W). I also had an air leak. It was the air gauge itself. When I talked to Freightliner the technician said that they had a problem with some of the gauges leaking. It was fixed under warranty, as was the windshield.

Rust on a 2008 coach... That is just plain wrong! Joe
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:19 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batwings View Post
The windshield leaks and rust is due to bad design and faulty installations. At least this is true for the 2006 Adventurer. The left and right side Trim-Roof Caps (the black trim immediately above the windshields) are designed to capture the water running off the roof front but these trim caps will also capture and hold roof debris. Once the caps are full of gunk the water will back up into the Roof Cap. If the Roof Cap is not sealed properly (which is usually the case) the water will find its way into the coach. There is a second design problem dealing with ice. When the track behind the Trim-Roof Caps fills up with melting snow and then refreezes, the adhesive holding the glass in place and the Roof Cap caulking WILL BE compromised. I resolved my problem by filling the gap between the Roof Cap and Trim Caps with 3/8” Frost King Poly Foam window sealer I purchased for a few bucks at Lowe's (SKU 77578 02428). This is truly a Winnebago design problem and not a consumer doing something wrong issue as I have heard from others. Just because you don’t see the problem doesn’t mean it is not there. For those doubting, take a few minutes to remove the black trim caps above the windshield and examine both the glass seal and the roof cap seal.

There are two things I learned about rust; how fast it travels and how it lies about its origin.
I purchased some of the foam window sealer that you mentioned, but can you explain exactly where you put it. Is it all along the top or just on the ends? I'm unclear about the placement. I'm assuming it is under the rubber on the top? Thanks, Joe
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:13 AM   #49
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We've had our "windshield leak" worked on five times, once by the factory, and it still leaks. Returning to Forest City 20 Sep and this issue is on the top of our list -- it will be repaired and water tested or we will not leave until it is! I'm sending the Service Center an email today stressing this problem and the need for a fix -- also check/repair any rusted areas.
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:30 AM   #50
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We have found Rust On the front Driver/passenger frame also. What we found was that sometimes the inside on the motorhome sweats and the moisture gets in there and then the rust starts; Our Vectra Had a leaking problem . When they removed the windshlid they found it was rusting from the inside also; they fixed it . we now have an Ultimate, That is leak free. We leave a window cracked open to take the moisture out;; Oh Our motorhomes live in a full Garage. and are never parked outsied Unless used.. This problem is NOT limited to winnebago, We have friends with Brand X that have leaking problems also; Life is good. Our cup is Half full. Not half EMpty,
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:59 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by azloafer View Post
I purchased some of the foam window sealer that you mentioned, but can you explain exactly where you put it. Is it all along the top or just on the ends? I'm unclear about the placement. I'm assuming it is under the rubber on the top? Thanks, Joe
Hi Joe,
There is a gap between the roof cap and the upper black window trim. I simply pressed the foam strip inside that gap from one end to the other. Refer to the three pics. If you remove the top trim you will find a rubber seal along the lower edge of the trim that presses against the glass. This lower seals holds the dirt in and will eventually fill up the entire channel behind the trim. After cleaning everything up and reinstalling the top trim I sealed the narrow gap above the trim with the foam. I did not want to use a permanent sealer there. Hopefully the strip will stay in place for a year or two.

Pics 2 & 3 show the windshield without the trim. Notice the cavity behind the windshield in #2. Ice would gather there in the winter. In #3 you can see the void behind the roof cap where water could enter the coach. To repair the damage, I filled the entire opening between the windshield and the roof cap with a silicone caulk. The two top pieces of trim can easily be removed but you have to remove the side trim first. The top trim pieces can then be removed by sliding them one inch to the right or left. (right trim slides right).
This info is based on a 2006 Adventurer, I don't know about other years or models.
Hope this helps.

Andy
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:17 PM   #52
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Andy,
Thanks for the information. I appreciate the trouble you went through taking and posting those photos. That helps a lot. That foam seal that you used is not available in any Lowes Stores in our area. I was able to order it online though. Thanks again, Joe
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:35 AM   #53
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Well yesterday I finally had a new windshield installed and guess what ther was rust under the black rubber gasket that the windshield is held on by. The installer removed the glass and them left and let me treat the rust areas. He came back several hours later installed the new glass and resealed the area over the drivers side that I also had treated the rust. They used a ureathane black sealer like peterB used
sealer that
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Old 09-05-2010, 02:49 PM   #54
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guess what ther was rust under the black rubber gasket that the windshield is held on by
Yep, pretty typical ...and very smart to treat it when you have the chance! But the black rubber gasket does nothing at all to secure the windshield glass to the MH ...that is all done by the urethane cement. The rubber gasket/moulding is just supposed to prevent water intrusion between the fiberglass and the windshield glass.
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:49 PM   #55
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Paul, The rubber gasket I was referring to is what was between the glass and the metal (rusted) frame. That stuff was very difficult for the glass people to cut to remove the glass. They removed 95% of the original black rubber stuff which exposed my problem areas. The stuff they used to install the glass back to the metal frame was "Dow- U-428Plus, Primerless to Auto Glass Urethane Adhesive" Black. Time will tell how good everything works.
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:19 AM   #56
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The rubber gasket I was referring to is what was between the glass and the metal (rusted) frame.
Ok, understand now. Unless yours is different from others of the same vintage, the "gasket" between the metal and the frame was actually black urethane cement similar to what your installer used to re-secure the glass. Once rust gets started it it does creep behind whatever is on the surface of the metal, and in extreme cases the rust will build to the point that it pushes the glass to the point that it cracks.
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:16 PM   #57
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Add one more to the count for leaking windshield. We drove in driving rain over Labor Day and when we arrived at the campground, we stuck the confirmation paper inside the passenger side windshield between the dash and the glass. Noticed the paper was getting wet. Got home and did some more digging. Found the marker light on the passenger side had about an 1/8" hole between the marker and the fiberglass. Appears the factory did the damage when installing the marker lights. Took some plastic and taped off the windshield, then hit the marker light with the hose, but did not find any water leaking. Then started to hit the windshield with the hose. Found water leaking at the top center and the top passenger side. Removed the inside plastic trim and found rusty metal. Appears the water leaks are between the metal and the windshield glue. Our RV is only used 6 months per year and is inside storage for the winter months. Will head to the factory to see how they will handle this obvious design and installation flaw. It has probably been leaking for some time, but never noticed as the dash cover hides the accumulation of the water. Found the plastic trim on the top was channeling the water over to the vertical side trim and the water would drip down to the dash area behind the trim.
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:13 PM   #58
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Winnebago service understood that the leak is unfortunate and disappointing, but they are unwilling to provide any consideration or participation in paying for the repair. Even with the new warranty, rust and corrision would not have been covered. I understand there might be some rust on the frame, but around the windshield. Give me a break.

We have really been satistified with the RV up to this point. Never would I have expected this major problem and then have Winnebago acknowledge there is a problem, but it is my problem now and they had absolutely nothing to do with the cause.
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:34 PM   #59
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We had been dealing with this leak for a year and I finally bit the bullet and took it to a local shop(Tony's RV in Lexington SC) They have a pressure test system which pressurises the inside of the coach so they can soap the outside and locate leaks. They found and repaired 1. top clearance lights. 2. remove and repair left windshield which was leaking as everyone said in their post. 3. Remove and reseal both side windows. I had earlier replaced these windows due to fogging, but the leak was where the window was mounted in the frame as opposed to where the frame was installed in the coach(another winnebago booboo as the new windows came from them).
Anyway after seeing the costs some of you folks had esxperienced I was expecting a $1500-$2000 bill. I was very pleased with a $750 bill assuming my leaks are gone. Time will tell. It helped that they were able to get my windshield out without it breaking or the bill would have been much more.
Tony's is an authorized repair center for most all RV stuff and I would recommend them if you are in the area.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:00 AM   #60
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Jim:

I have a 2001 Winnebago Journey 36LD. I had the same problem you are experiencing after a cracked driver's windshield was replaced. The way I fixed it was not very sophisticated but only took a few minutes. I ran a bead of clear silicone along the top of the trim on the driver's side of the middle windshield post. The bead runs approximately four inches from the post. The bead can not be seen and I have not had any more leaks. I am on the road fulltime, so there has been lots of body twists and turns.

Wade
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