WHo services Dash A/C?

[scottma]

Dash A/C fan in 2005 Journey is not blowing. Do I take it to Winnebago or Freightliner?

[DonGee]

I recently had the same problem with my 2005 Horizon. Took it to Freightliner and the gave me a song and dance about Winnebago over filling etc. and said I needed a new compressor. Finally took it to a local mechanic who I trusted and said I needed a new shreder valve and filled it with freon and so far no problems.

Don WIT 70041

[Doggy Daddy]

I would call your local RV Service Dealer RV Service Review and inquire if they are certified to do the repairs.

[Hikerdogs]

I would call the Winnebago dealer in your area or the one you bought it from before making a decision. In many cases the technicians have to be certified by the state or local governments before they can perform AC services.
Whoever does the work needs freon recovery and other specialized eqiipment. The dealer may not find that a cost effective investment and choose to farm out the work.

Our dealer farmed the work out to the local Ford truck garage so rather than complicate things we went straight to the Ford garage.

[EngineerMike]

Hiker's point is excellent. We had half a windshield replaced & the dealer wanted $1,300 but was farming it out. Direct to the auto glass outfit was about $750. And the glass guys came to the coach, wherever it was.

[sknight]

Since that's part of the coach Winnebago will be best to get the part but any automotive A/C place should be able to handle the repair.

[Hikerdogs]

It's usually not as simple as either the coach builder or the chassis builder supplying the entire unit. In most cases the chassis builder supplies the compressor, condensor and and any hardware attached to the chassis itself. Since the compressor is usually powered by the same serpintine belt that runs all the other accessories like the power steering and water pump it's more cost effective to have already installed on the chassis when the coach builder gets it.


The coach builder supplies the evaporator, control panel, ducting, valving and any hardware attached to the house. It's sort of a gray area where the systems are connected together.

[scottma]

The air is blowing cold out of the other vents. I think it is a fan problem or a control problem that is not directing the air to the dash vents. What do you think?

[sknight]

If it's blowing and cold you have a mode door problem. Basically it works you just can't change it from floor to dash vents, correct?

[scottma]

That is correct. The air is only coming out the defroster vents not the dash vents.

[RV'nOldTimer]

Originally Posted by scottma

That is correct. The air is only coming out the defroster vents not the dash vents.

I had the same/similiar problem on our 06 Journey. Simple repair after finding the problem - a cracked vacuum fitting. Seems that the default position for the dash air/heat is the defrost setting. In other words, when there is no or little vacuum, it defaults to defrost.

I'd check the easy things first; vacuum hoses, connections, fittings and then the vacuum source. On diesels, the vacuum source is a motorized pump, on gassers, the intake manifold. If you're lucky, it'll be one of the simple to fix things.

JT Kirby

[Fakrwee]

Sounds like a coach problem as Kirby describes it. Good advice.

[sknight]

Originally Posted by RV'nOldTimer

I had the same/similiar problem on our 06 Journey. Simple repair after finding the problem - a cracked vacuum fitting. Seems that the default position for the dash air/heat is the defrost setting. In other words, when there is no or little vacuum, it defaults to defrost.

I'd check the easy things first; vacuum hoses, connections, fittings and then the vacuum source. On diesels, the vacuum source is a motorized pump, on gassers, the intake manifold. If you're lucky, it'll be one of the simple to fix things.

JT Kirby

He's correct. On the vacuum systems the defrost is a spring loaded default because you need the windshield clear to drive safely.

If you can get the interior real quiet with the engine running, cupping your hand around your ear you can usually hear the vacuum leak as you move your head around the dash area, sounds like putting your tongue against your teeth and blowing, a hissing sound.

That's if it's inside.

Outside can be a pain to locate, but the lines are usually more accessable, thus easier to inspect.

I didn't know MHs still had vacuum operated systems. Nothing wrong with it, outside of the lines they're more reliable than modern actuator systems found in passenger cars and light trucks.

[RV'nOldTimer]

On a reread, I see that we are dealing with a diesel, so no need for the engine to get the vacuum pump going. I'm going to assume your layout is similar to mine. Turn on the "ignition" switch (yeah, I know, its a diesel) and the pump will be activated. It should run for a few seconds and not run again unless you activate a control or you have a leak. Find the pump and listen to what its doing.

With the front access door open and facing the coach, the vacuum pump will be on the right somewhat below the bottom of the door opening. Vacuum lines are pretty much in the open here and run from the pump to a vacuum "sump" which on my unit is a black round ball like container above the center of the door opening. From here the lines go to the AC/heater controls and maybe elsewhere. Mine was leaking at a fitting going into the heat controller.

As others have said, with the vacuum pump on,look/listen for a leak. If the pump runs constantly or intermittently, you have one somewhere. Under the dash is tougher but playing with the controls to see if the leak occurs at some settings and not others can give clues as to where the leak is located.

Good luck.

JT Kirby

[cbeierl]

Here's a good thread to read regarding possible sources of vacuum leaks, complete with pictures: Pump noise under the hood?