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Old 02-06-2019, 11:21 PM   #21
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I don't know if it's universal or not, but on my 2002 there's also a length of flexible plastic beading tucked into the channel, similar to that used to secure window screening to aluminum window screen frames. This gives another method of protection against the roof material coming out of the channel by wedging it into the channel.
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Old 02-06-2019, 11:30 PM   #22
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I don't know if it's universal or not, but on my 2002 there's also a length of flexible plastic beading tucked into the channel, similar to that used to secure window screening to aluminum window screen frames. This gives another method of protection against the roof material coming out of the channel by wedging it into the channel.
With all the reading I've done on the Winnie roof issue, I don't recall ever hearing about this flexible plastic beading.

Interesting. I wonder what rain fall coming off the roof does with that bead in the J channel? That J channel is sort of a mini rain gutter. Or that's what I thought it was.
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Old 02-07-2019, 08:28 AM   #23
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With all the reading I've done on the Winnie roof issue, I don't recall ever hearing about this flexible plastic beading.

Interesting. I wonder what rain fall coming off the roof does with that bead in the J channel? That J channel is sort of a mini rain gutter. Or that's what I thought it was.
Here's a link to a post with some drawings of this, which is called a "spline". Note that the rain gutter part is outboard of the roof channel:

http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...nel-59701.html

This earlier post has a lot of info on Eternabond and the Winnebago warranty issue.
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Old 02-07-2019, 09:23 AM   #24
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I don't recall seeing that before. I didn't know Winnie ever used that method. I imagine the spline is very similar to the spline used to hold screen door fabric in the frame only slightly larger.

Hmmm. Seems to me that it would help keep the roofing in the channel without damage. Wonder why Winnie doesn't use it for all their roofs? Maybe because one of the workers pointed out that it's redundant since they use the caulking too. And to save money they dropped it. OR, it just doesn't do anything except maybe hold it a bit while the roof installer squirts the RTV in the slot. I can see from that design that it would be a bear to clean out the channel if repairs were needed.

BTW, my '02 Journey doesn't have that spline. All the other Winnie roofs I've helped on or looked at didn't have it either. Might have been a temporary design?

Oh, yeah, the rain gutter part is outboard of the slot where the roof material is tucked in, as you say. I've looked at the drawings of the roof edge 10s of times but that fact still escaped me.
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Old 02-07-2019, 10:55 AM   #25
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"The Right Stuff"

I have a 2003 Journey and recently went through the same process that you are currently facing. After extensive research (here and elsewhere...including phone calls to Winnebago) the product that was recommended was "Manus-Bond 75-AM". Be sure you thoroughly clean the J-channel and your roof edge as much as possible before applying it.

I took it a step further which may or may not be appealing to you. After I resealed the j-channel/roof seam, I applied a 4"-wide strip of "EternaBond RSW-4-50 RoofSeal Sealant Tape"; wrapping the bottom edge down into (but not blocking) the rain channel. Properly applied, this stuff won't come off for about 15 years. It takes some care to apply it "wrinkle-free", but if you don't get in a hurry, it can be done fairly easily. As far as the looks go, by using a 4"-wide tape (I used white) from the ground it just looks like I have a really clean roof. Once I sealed off the sides, I used the excess tape to also seal the seams at the front and back of the roof panel as well.

If you decide to use the Eternabond tape, I HIGHLY recommend you clean the surfaces to be taped using "EternaBond EC-1 EternaClean Spray Cleaner". It will insure the best possible adhesion between your roof (and j-channel) and the tape. (I don't remember where I purchased the sealant, but both the tape and the cleaner are available on Amazon.)

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-07-2019, 11:29 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by My-Journey View Post
I have a 2003 Journey and recently went through the same process that you are currently facing. After extensive research (here and elsewhere...including phone calls to Winnebago) the product that was recommended was "Manus-Bond 75-AM". Be sure you thoroughly clean the J-channel and your roof edge as much as possible before applying it.


I took it a step further which may or may not be appealing to you. After I resealed the j-channel/roof seam, I applied a 4"-wide strip of "EternaBond RSW-4-50 RoofSeal Sealant Tape"; wrapping the bottom edge down into (but not blocking) the rain channel. Properly applied, this stuff won't come off for about 15 years. It takes some care to apply it "wrinkle-free", but if you don't get in a hurry, it can be done fairly easily. As far as the looks go, by using a 4"-wide tape (I used white) from the ground it just looks like I have a really clean roof. Once I sealed off the sides, I used the excess tape to also seal the seams at the front and back of the roof panel as well.

If you decide to use the Eternabond tape, I HIGHLY recommend you clean the surfaces to be taped using "EternaBond EC-1 EternaClean Spray Cleaner". It will insure the best possible adhesion between your roof (and j-channel) and the tape. (I don't remember where I purchased the sealant, but both the tape and the cleaner are available on Amazon.)

Hope this helps.
Thanks.
I've got eternabond tape and have used it a couple times but the paint on my model goes up and onto the roof about 4 inches so well past the channel. I've ordered the Manus 75 and will have it soon. I ordered in clear as there are also color changes to contend with on the side of our RV too. It's probably going to take me a good day to just clean out the old crap and clean up the area that needs re-sealed. Thankfully the weather down here in FL is supposed to turn for the better this next week so I may be able to get up there after work a couple days to get everything taken care of.
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Old 02-07-2019, 04:01 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by BobC View Post
Here's a link to a post with some drawings of this, which is called a "spline". Note that the rain gutter part is outboard of the roof channel:

http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...nel-59701.html

This earlier post has a lot of info on Eternabond and the Winnebago warranty issue.
Just a note that the 'spline' in the above referenced posting was not installed by Winnebago, but rather by the original poster, as a mechanism to hold the roof material and make it easier to apply a good bead of sealant (on top of the spline) in the channel.
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Old 02-07-2019, 06:19 PM   #28
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Just a note that the 'spline' in the above referenced posting was not installed by Winnebago, but rather by the original poster, as a mechanism to hold the roof material and make it easier to apply a good bead of sealant (on top of the spline) in the channel.
Thanks for the info. I guess a PO added it to my 2002. I found another post that refers to the spline as having been recommended on Winneowners.com (see post #9):

http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...do-112254.html

Apparently, its function is to hold the roof material against the inside edge of the channel allowing for more sealant outboard of the roof material.
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:16 AM   #29
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BobC link is correct.

BobC is correct. That's what I did. I dug out, scraped, cleaned, and prepared the surface. I used "Dicor 501LSW-1 Self-Leveling Lap Sealant". Amazon... I baught a 4 pack for $25-30? I used 3 tubes. Like I said I forced of down the J channel the way the diagram was.
NOT THE WAY THE FACTORY DID IT.
I was disappointed what a shotty job they did. 😝😫😦😩
I did it this last fall, so far I'm ok with it. No leaks. Any way good luck.

PS. 2004 33' Adventure. I would suggest, if you have one in this year or product. Good idea to check yours sealant.

Pss. No air conditioning unit on the roof and the aerodynamic dark vent covers. Makes the roof bad ass clean.
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Old 02-09-2019, 01:13 PM   #30
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BobC is correct. That's what I did. I dug out, scraped, cleaned, and prepared the surface. I used "Dicor 501LSW-1 Self-Leveling Lap Sealant". Amazon... I baught a 4 pack for $25-30? I used 3 tubes. Like I said I forced of down the J channel the way the diagram was.
NOT THE WAY THE FACTORY DID IT.
I was disappointed what a shotty job they did. 😝😫😦😩
I did it this last fall, so far I'm ok with it. No leaks. Any way good luck.

PS. 2004 33' Adventure. I would suggest, if you have one in this year or product. Good idea to check yours sealant.

Pss. No air conditioning unit on the roof and the aerodynamic dark vent covers. Makes the roof bad ass clean.
I would stick with Winnebago's recommended sealant (Manus 75 or the like). Dicor self-leveling is intended to seal screws and fittings against water intrusion on rubber roofs. I don't know what it's adhesive qualities are. Dicor has done a great job of convincing a lot of people that it's the go-to product for just about everything. Ask yourself: "Why would Winnebago use several different sealants on different parts of our motorhomes if there was a single product like Dicor that they could have used exclusively?"
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Old 02-10-2019, 04:51 AM   #31
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I would stick with Winnebago's recommended sealant (Manus 75 or the like). Dicor self-leveling is intended to seal screws and fittings against water intrusion on rubber roofs. I don't know what it's adhesive qualities are. Dicor has done a great job of convincing a lot of people that it's the go-to product for just about everything. Ask yourself: "Why would Winnebago use several different sealants on different parts of our motorhomes if there was a single product like Dicor that they could have used exclusively?"

I agree, I have done the seam seal job and used the Manus bond 75, which as a class of sealant that is approved for the seam seal. the Dicor self leveling is not a bonding material that drys to a hard state like the manus bond does. It took me about 3 tubes to seal a 36 foot MH. The hardest part of the job was the prep of cleaning out the old from the channel.

I did clean off all the silicone off the top and used Dicor self leveling for the horizontal surfaces.
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Old 02-10-2019, 06:31 PM   #32
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Manus Bond

One part of the equation everyone NOT using Manus Bond is missing - the product is an adhesive/sealant. Adhesive. That part is critical for that joint!
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:26 PM   #33
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Trying To Make Sense Of Everything I Read

1) Silicon offers good UV properties, but is not strong enough.

2) Polyurethane (like Quad) has good adhesion, but will crack if you leave your RV outdoors for more than 6 months in the sun.

3) Eternabond with stick to almost everything, but not silicon... and it's a good idea to remove all the old caulking you can before you apply new sealant and or Eternabond Tape.

4) The J channel is like a rain gutter. So yes, I would like to preserve that. I also don't think we need 2" Eternabond and I propose the best option would be to run a 1" Eternabond Tape in the J-Channel as that would provide enough adhesion over a freshly applied polyurethane sealant like Quad-Clear or white. It would not matter what you use as the Eternabond will be enough and is UV resistant if not UV proof.

==> As of today, you can't get Eternabond in 1" widths, but maybe that will change in the future!

5) Some say the "right stuff" is RV ProSeal by Geo Cell, but I's still not clear on the right type of sealant? GeoCell make a number of different types. So maybe someone can clarify?

8) Others say Manus bond 75 is the right stuff, but when I look this up on Amazon it says it's YELLOW in color. So we need some clarification here?

Speaking for myself, I would like to KNOW what is "The Right Stuff" I should use to maintain my roof, because it's not clear to me after reading everything so far.

All I am sure of is this: My roof was completely replaced by Winnebago in 2018 for $35,000. This was after the fiberglass skin lifted out of the J-Channel right behind the driver's side front cap. And I believe: If I used Eternabond down the driver's side J-channel then this "roof malfunction" would not have occurred.

And after REJECTING all the wrong ways of repairing my roof, The Hartford did end up paying the insurance claim. So I then worked with Winnebago in Forest City, IA; and I can tell you this: These guy don't sell the "right stuff" over the counter in their part's department. And they will not give you a straight answer as to what they are using in the shop. NOW ISN'T THAT SPECIAL?

So here we all are. And I'm asking if someone... AN EXPERT... can answer these questions so we all know what our options are:

1) What is the right (Clear) stuff to use when maintaining your roof?

2) Alternatively, is there a sealant option that will last 5+ years? If so what is it? Where can we buy it? And what does it cost?

3) ...Or are we all agreeing that if you want "a forever solution with no gutter maintenance," then you need to use Eternabond 2" tape... and apply this tape inside your rain gutter; or use 4" Eternabond and wrap it over the gutter?

==> And if you ask me, I would like it better if we can all encourage Eternabond to offer a 1" wide tape for we can put in the J-channel to protect a polyurethane sealant underneath from UV rays.

End.
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:54 PM   #34
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1)
8) Others say Manus Bond 75 is the right stuff, but when I look this up on Amazon it says it's YELLOW in color. So we need some clarification here?
I don't even see yellow Manus Bond 75 on Amazon, just clear, white, aluminum and black and is Winnebago's recommended product so why use anything else?

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...nus+bond+75%22

As you can see in the image above, the J channel has two sections, one, where the roof edge and sealant goes and a second, that serves as the rain gutter. The Eternabond would lap over, into the rain gutter section but isn't thick enough to fill it.

Eternabond is fairly easy to cut down so a 4" wide roll can be split into two 2" strips or four 1" strips. Personally I wouldn't want to go less than 2" in order to ensure adequate adhesion.

This isn't all that complicated, so don't over-think it:

Step 1: Clean out all the old sealant
Step 2: Apply Manus Bond 75 in whatever color you prefer.

Optional: Apply Eternabond
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