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Old 02-08-2014, 10:43 AM   #1
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What kind/type of epoxy

The bottom of leading edge of the left front fender well, where the brace is attached has broken off. Well it didn't really break, it was more like the stump attacked it. So what I have is the piece that wraps around to the inside of the well and is still attached to the brace.

My question is "do I have a chance of getting this epoxied back in place and having it hold"?
I have some J-B Epoxy 3940 psi. Will that be good enough?

Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.

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Old 02-08-2014, 11:02 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheToads View Post
The bottom of leading edge of the left front fender well, where the brace is attached has broken off. Well it didn't really break, it was more like the stump attacked it. So what I have is the piece that wraps around to the inside of the well and is still attached to the brace.

My question is "do I have a chance of getting this epoxied back in place and having it hold"?
I have some J-B Epoxy 3940 psi. Will that be good enough?

Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
The Toads
What material are we talking about? Metal, Fiberglas etc? If you can provide a photo I'm sure there are a few iRV2ers that will be able to point you in the right direction.
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:29 PM   #3
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Almost sounds like a job for polyester resin and fiberglass cloth
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Old 02-08-2014, 04:20 PM   #4
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epoxy

The material must be fiberglas. It is the side panels in and around the front wheel. The problem is there is not much to work with as what broke off was the bottom where the wheel well flaring ends which is where the brace is attatched.
Right now I have it duct taped getting ready for traveling. If the duct tape fails I have some Gorilla tape that I will try. It is rainy, wet and cool so I don't think the epoxy has enough time to correctly dry.

Thanks for the thoughts.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:39 PM   #5
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I have used JB-Weld many times.. Also other epoxies.

ALAS. not all that impressed with 'em.

If it is metal on metal, get it welded

If it is metal on fiberglass.. As someone suggested the proper Fiberglass repair.

i'd not use Epoxy.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:46 PM   #6
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I would use the Gorilla tape for insurance against further damage or having to pick it up off the side of the road, if I was soon traveling.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:28 PM   #7
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Good call on the Gorilla tape. Duct all covered up and protected. Should last till I get home and find a good fiberglas guy.
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Dea
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:59 PM   #8
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A product actually meant for the job is SEM 39537 Weld Bond Adhesive. It's used by body shops to bond fiberglass and plastic panels to the steel substrate. I used it to bond the fiberglass hood to the hinges, and the headlight cans to the grille of our 2001 Adventurer.

It's a little pricey and generally only sold by body shop supply houses. We found it well worth the money since it only had to be used once. Other things may work temporarily, but when it takes a lot of time and energy to remove all the parts necessary to do a quality job, it's best if you only have to do it once.

"39537 WELD-BOND ADHESIVE is a non-sag, two component methacrylate adhesive system formulated to bond metal surfaces without the use of an external primer. 39537 provides long working times (45-60 minutes) allowing body shops to correctly position parts for proper alignment. This adhesive contains glass beads to insure adequate bond line control. 39537 is an easy to use 1:1 adhesive that forms resilient bonds and maintains its strength over a wide range of temperatures. 39537 is suitable for bonding a variety of substrates especially automotive grade cold rolled steel. Recommended substrates include steel, galvanized steel, e-coat, aluminum and stainless steel."
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:56 PM   #9
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I think what I really need is a good body shop in the Olympia area. I have found 2 more cracks and broken braces that I hadn't noticed before and I really have no experience with fiberglass and resin. So my fear is that when "I" got done fixing the problem, it would look worse than the way it looks right now. A little touch up paint would hide a lot of the damage, but that would certainly be better than my handy work. Costs could be a factor as well.
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:07 PM   #10
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Dean,
Have you talked to anyone at Brazel's? They seem to be a pretty versatile operation.
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Old 02-12-2014, 05:02 PM   #11
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is it really fiberglass??

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheToads View Post
I have found 2 more cracks and broken braces that I hadn't noticed before and I really have no experience with fiberglass and resin. So my fear is that when "I" got done fixing the problem, it would look worse than the way it looks right now.
Dean
How sure are you that the fender area is fiberglass. on my MH the formed panels and most of all the body is plastic. IE ABS. same thing found on most cars. There are a variety of things to be used on ABS. you will find the ABS is of black composition. Elsewhere I wrote of repairs I made on the rear quarter panel and rear lower bumper area using ABS grindings turned into a glue with acetone.

It is a lot easier to repair than fiberglass. and like you said, when it all fixed "paint hides a lot"
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:36 AM   #12
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ABS can be "welded" as well.
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:27 AM   #13
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SHOCK & AWE. After consulting with the local MH workshop, I have found out the following. The front cap is fiberglass. That is where one of the cracks is. Which is just below the lower front screen on the "bumper". The other is in the driver side panel that covers the wheel well. There are several areas where there is spider cracks etc.
He gave me a quote of somewhere between $5000 and $ 6000. )(**&#$^%&)(*(*&%$$ .
His main argument was that the plastic rock guard that protects the front end and sides will cost at least $ 2000 to remove and replace. Plus paint (2 different colors ) @ $190/ pint. Etc etc etc. And the broken piece at the bottom of the front edge of the wheel well, will not be guaranteed. And it most likely will either fall or break off over time. Right now it is being held on by a couple of layers of duct tape and a couple of layers of Gorilla tape. It survived the trip home just nicely. Now if I could only smooth them out and paint them graphite grey, I might just get leave it as is???????????
The good news is that I am meeting with another repair shop tomorrow and then taking it to Brazel for some seal work. Unfortunately they don't do body work.
Snooze you lose ( or break it) and it does not pay to be stupid.
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:46 PM   #14
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One of the pitfalls of the clear plastic paint guard but regardless.....that dealer is hosing you..
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