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Old 08-31-2008, 02:45 PM   #1
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My 2004 Itasca Meridian has several glued attaching points for fiberglass panels, especially the louvered rear access door, which have failed. I have seen several other posts on this forum describing the same problem with the front generator access door. Has anybody with this problem found a suitable adhesive that will stand the heat and vibration experienced by a rear access door? I called Winnebago customer service and they sound like they have never heard of the problem and had no recommendations.
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Old 08-31-2008, 03:03 PM   #2
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My coach had the same problem as you have. what I used is a fiberglass . I forgot the name of it, what it is a fiberglass with fiberglass strans in it. You mixs a harder in it. If you go to a auto parts store they will know what you are talking about. I looked around my shop for it and I must of used all. I use it on restoring cars. It will bond to the fiberglass and the steal frame. I repaired mine two years ago and no more problem .It,s hard to mixs but will do the job. I will try and get the name of the product.
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Old 08-31-2008, 04:53 PM   #3
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I believe some have used JB Weld with good results. WEST system epoxy is the 'gold standard' for epoxies. They have a full gamut of additives depending on the application (strength, ease of sanding, etc.) Winnebago uses a two part adhesive that I have never heard of and can't remember the name of.
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Old 08-31-2008, 05:59 PM   #4
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I used JB Weld to re-attach the rear bumper to its metal supports. That has been at least 1 1/2 years ago. My front panel access hatch has started to break loose where the hinges are bonded to the front nose. I have wedged in some wood supports to keep it in place and tied off the hinges with some line in cse of total failure underway. I'll have to do the repair sometime in the near future. SteveG
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Old 08-31-2008, 06:15 PM   #5
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here is one thread related to this problem ..

reattaching thread
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Old 08-31-2008, 06:16 PM   #6
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Our dealer fixed our engine cover with fiberglass and Winnebago covered it under warranty.
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Old 08-31-2008, 07:42 PM   #7
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I had exactly the same problem about two years ago with the louvered rear access door on my 2004 Winnebago Journey. I found it absolutely incredulous that the door was "glued" by Winnebago on a piece of machinery that is subject to a great deal of vibration, bumps, etc. I was very dismayed. I took my unit to a Winnebago dealership who reglued the door back in place with some special type of epoxy resin. The reglued repair was the sloppiest job and least competent job I've had done on my unit. I've spent my entire career as a craftsman and fine artist and I have rather high expectations whenever any work is done on my motorhome. I've had junior high students who could have done a more effective job. In fact, you might be further ahead to check around, find the right type of epoxy, and reattach the door yourself. Winnebago customer service is well aware of these problems.
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:38 AM   #8
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I called Winnie when I had the same problem and was told to make sure to remove all the paint from the areas to re glue use a good construction adhesive. I used PL Premium construction adhesive from Home Depot. I wanted to have Winnie service check and redo the door, to make sure I had a good seal, when I went to GNR this year but they could not get it apart. I feel confident this is a good fix. I will always keep an eye on it but so far so good.
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:00 AM   #9
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Ah-ha - I found the adhesive that Winnie uses for fiberglass to metal applications. I used some of this a year ago to refasten my engine grill and it has worked great so far. I suspect not enough was originally used or the surface wasn't clean (a guess...)

The adhesive details:

Winnebago part number 112901-02-000
Plexus MA330 Methacrylate Adhesive 50ml (dual tube dispenser like some epoxies are packaged)
ITW Plexus, Danvers, MA 01923
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:03 PM   #10
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There are some good recommendations here. It appears that Winnebago used a black colored adhesive and attempted to fasten the fiberglass panels to metal parts that were painted with a high-gloss enamel or thermo-setting powder. They did punch a few holes in the metal parts thinking the adhesive would grip those. That made no sense at all, the adhesive let go of the glossly metal part but not the fiberglass panel. It appears that I will have to remove the rear panel, rough up the metal parts and apply new adhesive. Removing the old adhesive from the fiberglass panels may prove to be a challange.
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:20 PM   #11
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I had the same problem with my hood latch others have had. I sanded and cleaned both surfaces and used JB Weld. It has not failed yet for 2 years.

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Old 09-01-2008, 01:08 PM   #12
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John C..Said.......
Quote:
I suspect not enough was originally used or the surface wasn't clean (a guess...)
John has this pegged. Winnie (at least im my experience) has tried to glue things together with bad, lazy preparation. On my Advent. several items were painted at the attach point. The glue held on to the paint, the paint turned loose.. There is nothing wrong with glueing things together, it just MUST be the right glue, and prepared according to the instructions for that glue.I use JB....rgr..
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Old 02-05-2009, 07:48 AM   #13
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HAPPY ENDING.
I had previously inquired re: my engine grill cover coming "unglued". Spoke with Winne corp. and couldn't have been nicer. "Even though it's out of warranty-take it to Lazy Days and we'll take care of it. That shouldn't happen." I did. LD did a great job, said it wasn't prop. prepared, ground down to the metal. I'm a happy camper again.
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Old 02-06-2009, 11:55 AM   #14
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Winnebago reglued some of the connection spots on our 2001 Journey and they lasted about as long as the original. I cleaned off the factory adhesive as good as I could and refastened the front hood and the rear bottom cap with Gorilla glue. Kept the coach another 1 and 1/2 years before getting rid of it and all the joints were absolutely tight when it went.
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:37 PM   #15
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I support the JB Weld approach - A couple of yrs ago I reattached the fog lamp bracket to the fiberglass cowl and so far no problem.
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Old 03-19-2009, 07:47 AM   #16
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I just reglued my engine cover yesterday. I used black windshield adhesive. I think one problem winne has is simply not putting enough glue on the metal frame bracket. I just washed with soap and water, then glued around the entire frame. I would not use a fiberglass repair, or jb weld. I like something rubbery that has a little give to take up the vibration.
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:27 PM   #17
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Talking Trina's other half, Wally

I'm about to do some resealing on the top of a 1998 winni that has some delamination on the roof near the front vent and air unit. And also to ck for leaks in other places. I came across a product call Sikaflex Sealant that is used in attaching metal to metal and other materials, without using hardware. I think you can get it at marine supply dealer. I have used JB Weld in stain glass repair and it does not have a high strength, mostly a filler and a so-so bond. The P.L. Premium construction adhesive from home depot etc. is good . If you have a good auto repair shop in your area they know all about the new adhesive for auto repair. If anyone has had to repair a delamination any help would be great. Wally
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