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Old 08-14-2008, 05:04 PM   #1
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I need to repair some brackets supporting the Onan Generator exhaust pipe. It would involve some spot welds to the generator slide assembly. Are there any precaurions that I should take to protect the electronics of the chassis and coach?
Thanks for any info.

Pete
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Old 08-14-2008, 05:04 PM   #2
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I need to repair some brackets supporting the Onan Generator exhaust pipe. It would involve some spot welds to the generator slide assembly. Are there any precaurions that I should take to protect the electronics of the chassis and coach?
Thanks for any info.

Pete
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Old 08-14-2008, 05:16 PM   #3
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More people with more knowledge will jump in on this topic -- I hope but, I am pretty sure that the batteries need to be disconnected from the MH before any welding is done on the chassis.

You might do a search on "welding" and see if any info comes up to further clarify.
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:23 PM   #4
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When I had a rattle bolt nut welded on my hitch they not only asked that I had ALL batteries shut off, but they also slid under and unplugged the Allison. Apparently there is some precedence for this procedure so I wasn't about to reason with them.
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Old 08-15-2008, 02:57 AM   #5
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Generally the procedure is to disconnect all batteries and sensitive electronics. Normally they will not be hurt by any stray currents from electric welding. You could get some one to gas weld it and not worry about the electrical issues.

Ken
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Old 08-15-2008, 04:23 AM   #6
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Before welding, disconnect shore power, then all batteries. Disconnect anything from the coach, I disconnected water, and park cable TV, and anything that can conduct current.

I had the welding done, then reconnected and had no trouble. Good luck.
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Old 08-15-2008, 04:24 AM   #7
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SCVJeff--what is a rattle bolt nut??
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Old 08-15-2008, 06:05 AM   #8
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Thanks for all the replies. Does anyone know where to unplug the Allison Trans as has been suggested?

Thanks\Pete
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Old 08-15-2008, 06:28 AM   #9
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While I try to do this when possible, sometimes it is impractical.

FWIW, I do not want to have to replace any expensive electronic components but the easiest way to avoid this issue if you have to weld on the frame is to have a GOOD ground on the part/area you are welding and have your ground clamp there rather than on some misc. bolt.

When the ground is too far from the localized welding area or is insufficient (paint, rust etc. on either the clamp, the metal or both), the current will "search" for a better ground. (A floating ground is a very BAD thing in this situation.) I have used this method many times with absolutely no damage or ill effects.

FWIW, I have electronic disconnect switches just inside the coach door but if there is ANY minor draw, the chassis battery will not disconnect. I can disconnect the coach batteries but the reality is that I will be adding a secondary group of disconnect switches in each battery compartment at each bulkhead so that I can disconnect both ground and positive terminals.

I would still insist that the local ground connection at/near the weld area is as good/clean (sanded or ground down) as possible and the welder clamp be in good condition and clamped to this area.

Just my $.02...
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Old 08-15-2008, 04:36 PM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by richf:
SCVJeff--what is a rattle bolt nut?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I had the side of the hitch drilled and a 5/16 Grade/5 nut welded on to tighten up the tow bar so it is completely secure and won't rattle or move at all.
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