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Old 10-29-2009, 12:58 PM   #1
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Using air to winterize

I know that many have been successful doing this.

What I'm worried about isn't that it will work, if the water isn't there, how could it not? What I'm worried about is the method that I'd like to utilize to blow the lines out.

In my Brave, I have a line that's near the fresh water tank for drawing in antifreeze for the winter months. The line has what appears to be a 1/4" NPT end on it. I'd like to be able to just put a airline connector on it and blow out the system. I'm concerned that I'll damage the pump, as the air would be going through it. I'd use the city water connection but it is connected well forward of much of the water system, and I'm concerned that I wouldn't get all the water out.

So the question is, is it save to use the hose for pulling antifreeze into the system safe to use with pressurized air?
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:46 PM   #2
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Hi Ho: I haven't had any problems damaging the pump. I find it easiest to just attach the compressor where you connect to water at the campsite. You can then flip the valve to blow out the fill line and if the pump is running you will be able to get air back through the pump.

Be sure to empty the fresh water tank after this exercise.

A couple of parts from the local hardware shop allows you to connect the air compressor. (This same fixture attaches to a hose bib to blow the water out of my outdoor water lines and sprinkler lines)

Be sure to blow out the outdoor shower if you have one and also the ice maker. I like to take off the line and blow out the line and then blow air as the fridge is on so that the ice maker is cleared out.

Sine you can set the air pressure to about 40 or 50 lbs. you don't stress anything any more than when there is water present.

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Old 10-30-2009, 05:27 AM   #3
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It will go a little faster if you open all of the faucets, shower head etc. then take the outside shower, put it on the ground open to drain out as much as possible first. Then close everything up, pressurize and blow out each fixture one at a time. It is easier if you have help to monitor the pressure while you run around opening and closing things. You can make the tire valve adapter for your street water connection or buy one pretty cheap from an RV supply.

I do this every fall but where we live it gets cold enough that I don't trust that there is some place in the lines where water finds its way to a low spot and lays there waiting to freeze and explode because it didn't all blow out. When we return from our yearly Florida vacation the worst is usually over and the blow out is good enough till the weather gets better.
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:01 PM   #4
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I empty fresh water tank and run pump to remove all water. Then I attach air at the hose water fill. I blow out all lines opening all faucetts and flushing toilet. Drain the hot water tank. Then dump all water from black and grey tanks. Set hot water to by-pass. I then run the pink stuff through the system from the pick-up at the pump. This also gets antifreeze into your traps. I then blow the system out again with air. Over kill I know, but only takes a few more minutes.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:26 PM   #5
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I have used both the "pink stuff" and the blow-out method. Last year after doing the blow-out method, we had a severe cold spell and I had a few problems. Even though I have used this method before with good results, the shower valve and the kitchen faucet spray wand both failed. At least Moen was kind enough to replace the valve with a kit, and replace the spray faucet wand also. There must have been a pocket of water laying in there that the air pressure couldn't get at. So, this year I'm going to go back to the ant-freeze method, even tho' it is a little more of a PITA, I've never had any problems afterward.
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:00 AM   #6
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You get a plastic screw in adapter for your city water fitting from any camping store, 2-4 bucks tops. You hook onto it with a standard tire chuck.. I like the fancy one I have that 1: Locks on and 2: has a lever valve to control air flow.

This blows out the city water inlet lines, and all the lines save the pump lines.

Lay a towel under the pump and open the inlet strainer housing,, Inspect and clean the strainer as needed... Switching to an "Air gun" nozzle (or just shove a common rubber valve stem into the locking tire chuck and press it against the inlet hole in the houseing) blow out the line to the tank (Keep tank drain open)

Blow out the line from the water pump to wherever by simply turning the pump on.. NOTE very low pressure air may be blown in using the tire stem and pressing against the strainer outlet hole

Inspect and clean the inlet filter screen as needed, re-assemble

When blowing the lines

Blow, pause, blow pause, blow, pause.. You get the idea, several times... The first blow is a long one, you blow till no more water comes out.. Then let water still clinging to the lines to pool for a minute or two, and blow again. at least 5 or 10 times.

Finally dump pink stuff into the drains and toilet to take care of them and to protect the waste tanks as well

If the air you blew into those lines freezes... WE all in big trouble son.
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:40 AM   #7
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Well, I took a chance and went ahead with my original plan. I put the air hose on the pickup for the antifreeze and proceeded to drain the line. Things seemed to go well.

I guess I'll find out what I damaged (if anything) in the spring.
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:57 PM   #8
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Gang, Newbie here with a 1998 Itasca Spirit 329WQ (Calif. MH brought to new home in Ohio). The books say the bypass valve is under the Galley. I found the drain valves, they open to tubes out through the floor. But I can't locate the heater bypass valve and my plumbing book says it's there ... any idea where I should be looking?

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Old 11-02-2009, 06:09 PM   #9
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No one has bother to explain that you need to use SUMMER air to winterize. If you try to use WINTER air, it will take about 300% more air..... even then you might freeze up the water with Winter air.

But the best thing to do is to use a hose end adapter and use no more than about 30 PSI of pressure. Shut off the faucets andt then open and blow several times. Finally blow the low points. You will still need to put RV antifreeze in all of the P-traps. Also drain the water heater.

Ken
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:59 AM   #10
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Thank Dog that I saved some of that summer air!
I had to struggle with whether to use it or not, I usually keep it bottled up for those bitter cold winter afternoons when I just can't get warm.

In all seriousness, the process went pretty smoothly.

It turns out that the thread on the pick up tube for the antifreeze was a 3/8" NPT, and, of course, the thread on the airline connection was 1/4" NPT. A quick trip the the hardware store and it was sorted.

The process took no less time than filling with antifreeze, but the undoing process should be pretty easy.

I did drain the hot water heater, and cycled the air several times at each faucet. I continued until my hand under the faucet was dry.

Compressor air was set to 40PSI.

Now it turns out that I'll be taking it out this weekend, so I'll have feedback sooner than I expected on whether or not I damaged anything.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:12 AM   #11
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You also need to blow out the city water inlet line so get the el-cheapo adapter and blow Grabrial blow
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Old 11-08-2009, 10:49 AM   #12
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Well the overnight camping trip was fun.

No issues at all with the systems after the blow out.
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:08 AM   #13
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While on the water system subject, I have problems with the water pump surging when faucet is cracked open. It runs steady if you open the faucet wide. This surging, or pulsating, of the water pump sounds awful and is very irritating.
Thanks,
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:35 AM   #14
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I used to use air to blow out my lines but did not feel safe as to leaving some water that sometimes accumulate in the tank of the compressor. All it takes is some water resadue get into the air and set in a low part of the line. That could freeze and cause a problem. So now I use the pink stuff through out the water system to including the washer/dryer and the icemaker. Three gallons is cheap insurance.
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Old 11-24-2009, 02:09 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Folis Jones View Post
While on the water system subject, I have problems with the water pump surging when faucet is cracked open. It runs steady if you open the faucet wide. This surging, or pulsating, of the water pump sounds awful and is very irritating.
Thanks,
Folis
(Virginia)
you should update your signature block with info about your moho.
on my moho, if there is any air in the pump from running the water tank low, the pump is very noisy.
my moho has a water drain valve in the vicinity of and below the water pump. i found that if i bled the air out of the pump and lines from the tank to the pump and through the pump by opening the drain valve during the tank filling operation i get rid of the air. i only drain 2-3 gallons of water into a bucket to get the air out of the system. then don't run the tank below 1/4, or you will have to bleed the air again. i turn my water pump off during the filling and bleeding operation.
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