trik-L-start

[teeman]

I have a 04 sightseer and going to install a trik-l-start to keep the chassis charged. The instructios say to put it in between the 2 post on the solenoid,(chassi post house post) Is this right there isnt a electical drawing for a 04. on this WINN didnt install them in 04. Is there any one that install one any info would be great help.
Thanks
Tony

[teeman]

I have a 04 sightseer and going to install a trik-l-start to keep the chassis charged. The instructios say to put it in between the 2 post on the solenoid,(chassi post house post) Is this right there isnt a electical drawing for a 04. on this WINN didnt install them in 04. Is there any one that install one any info would be great help.
Thanks
Tony

[John_Canfield]

The solenoid provides a convenient connection point to access both battery banks. One lug of the solenoid will be the house bank, the other the chassis bank.

The Trik-L-Start probably has three wires (like my Xantrex) - one to ground, one to the source (house batteries), and one to target (chassis betteries.)

[FrankO]

I put mine right on the battery posts. Less likely to make a mistake IMHO.
Frank O.

[Bagger97]

If all your batteries are in one location,like mine, under the step then just put the Trik-l-start directly on the battery posts.

[gmanatl]

My 1999 Chieftain DP has the house batteries and chassis batteries on opposite sides of the coach. I had a Battery Pal put on at the solenoid just as John described and it works great.

[Finhawk]

Hook it directly to the batteries---much easier and simple to do

[lewisedge]

As a new owner in 2012 of an Itasca Sunova 33C, I mistakenly believed that keeping my coach plugged into shore power during winter storage would keep the batteries in tip-top condition but I learned better the hard way. After greatly diminishing the capacity of my coach batteries, which ultimately required their replacement, and finding my chassis battery unable to start the engine following three months of winter storage I'm successfully following a new storage strategy. After my mistake, I learned that Winnebago recommends that its motorhome owners, such as me, not leave the shoreline plugged in continuously during storage periods because the batteries can lose electrolytic fluids and become damaged from continuous charging without periodic use.

Each of my recently-replaced 12V two deep-discharge coach batteries are rated at 105 amp-hours for 20 hours and are connected in parallel. The chassis battery is robust enough to start my Triton V-10 engine. With that kind of battery power on board, I needed more than the typical light-weight battery maintainer that delivers less than an ampere of current. I chose a Stanley BC6809 6/8 Amp Automatic Battery Charger/Maintainer. I now feed the chassis battery via a TRIK-L-START, which prevents a reverse flow of power. After disconnecting most circuits that put a parasitic drain on the batteries, I have found that this charger will maintain a voltage of 13.3 on the coach batteries, which is ideal, and 13 volts on the chassis battery. As long as I leave this charger/maintainer connected, it should keep my batteries in tip-top condition throughout the winter. Thus far I have seen no evidence of over-charging.

[Tom-NC]

Hi,
I have a trickle charger connected to my chassis battery and leave my coach plugged in 24/7 with no problems. The main reason is that when the electric steps are operated it draws current from the chassis battery and we are in and out of coach all the time.

I do make it a practice when I do monthly generator exercise that I check battery levels.

BTW I have had my 04 Winnebago which I owned for 10 years plugged in 24/7 and never had a battery problem. I did have to replace the batteries as they got old and lost their specific gravity.

The charger I use I bought at WalMart and it does a nice job keeping the chassis battery charged.

[grtharris]

teeman, I prefer to put my in the Chassis Electrical Box Assembly. See attached drawing. Makes for a cleaner install.

[camaraderie]

Originally Posted by lewisedge

Each of my recently-replaced 12V two deep-discharge coach batteries are rated at 105 amp-hours for 20 hours and are connected in parallel. The chassis battery is robust enough to start my Triton V-10 engine. With that kind of battery power on board, I needed more than the typical light-weight battery maintainer that delivers less than an ampere of current. I chose a Stanley BC6809 6/8 Amp Automatic Battery Charger/Maintainer. I now feed the chassis battery via a TRIK-L-START, which prevents a reverse flow of power. After disconnecting most circuits that put a parasitic drain on the batteries, I have found that this charger will maintain a voltage of 13.3 on the coach batteries, which is ideal, and 13 volts on the chassis battery. As long as I leave this charger/maintainer connected, it should keep my batteries in tip-top condition throughout the winter. Thus far I have seen no evidence of over-charging.

It would be safer if you simply charged up ALL your batteries fully and then walked away for a month or so. Leaving them disconnected at the negative posts. They will maintain a 90% charge for at least that long and I'd bet on 2 months or more. Cold actually helps hold a charge and slow down passive loss. After a month you'll have to put back in about 25 amp hours to your batts to top them off... which your present device will do...but it not a great choice. Suggest that for year round use, a full time SMART charger with an EQ cycle is your best option and with your bank...20-30 amp capabiity is minimum. Like this:

IOTA DLS-30/IQ4 12 VOLT 30 AMP 4 STAGE AUTOMATIC SMART BATTERY CHARGER / POWER SUPPLY

[MutinyGuy]

The boost solenoid on my 2010 WGO View is under the passenger seat...good place for the Trik-L-Start...
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