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Old 11-09-2006, 10:24 AM   #1
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I have several of the storage door locks broken on my '02 UA. The plastic pins that engage the bracket on either side of the door break back in the channel that they slide in. A real PITA to get the door open then because they can't be retracted. Once opened, the plastic piece falls right out.

I have located the replacement parts and am ready to order them, plus a couple of spares (given the frequency of failures). My question is do I have to remove the entire inside cover or can I just drill out the latch (it's pop riveted on the end of the door) and replace that.

I'm hoping that someone here has been thru this before, (Brent - feel free to jump in here anytime )and can save me some heartburn.
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Old 11-09-2006, 10:24 AM   #2
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I have several of the storage door locks broken on my '02 UA. The plastic pins that engage the bracket on either side of the door break back in the channel that they slide in. A real PITA to get the door open then because they can't be retracted. Once opened, the plastic piece falls right out.

I have located the replacement parts and am ready to order them, plus a couple of spares (given the frequency of failures). My question is do I have to remove the entire inside cover or can I just drill out the latch (it's pop riveted on the end of the door) and replace that.

I'm hoping that someone here has been thru this before, (Brent - feel free to jump in here anytime )and can save me some heartburn.
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Old 11-09-2006, 03:50 PM   #3
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JB:

I've not seen the door latches on the UA but they sound like the same on my Journey. I recently replaced one that also broke the plastic plunger off. I did not have to remove the panel.

Here is what I did:

> drill out the rivets.
> remove the screws holding the handle so you can jimmy it around and release the rod that activates the latch.
> I tied a string to the end of the rod near the handle so I could retreive it if it fell down in the door.
> now you can remove the latch from the end of the door and release it from the rod.
> attach new latch to rod, install with new rivets.
> pull the string to get the handle end of the rod, re-insert into handle mechanism.
> reinstall handle.

This worked on mine which has the release handle in the middle of the door.
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Old 11-09-2006, 04:07 PM   #4
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smlranger;
That is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks so much for the prompt reply. I pulled the inside latch cover off (I have the electric latches) and your description matches what I saw there.
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Old 11-11-2006, 04:58 AM   #5
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As a preventive messure I use silicone spray on the latches.Also when closing the compartment doors I do not slam them down,lower the door and then gently push each corner in.
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Old 11-11-2006, 06:27 AM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Ed Gardiser:
As a preventive messure I use silicone spray on the latches.Also when closing the compartment doors I do not slam them down,lower the door and then gently push each corner in.
Ed Gardiser
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</div></BLOCKQUOTE>This is how I close mine also. The trouble I have is that the little steel pin that holds the latches in the door works its way back out of the hole and then the latch handle falls off. You meed a long punch to push the pins back in where they belong. They just don't stay in. It's like routine maintenence any more. Once the pin comes out you have to remove the inside cover and disconnect the rods and move the handle out the way, line up the pin, and hammer back in, then reassemble the cover and close the door. What a pain.
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:38 AM   #7
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Hi guys. I need to renew this one. I took the 4 screws holding the handle off and the door has a sheet of foam inside so I can't get the plastic plunger out even if I drill the rivets out. Its a 1999 Adventurer Pusher Model 34V ISB 5.9

Any ideas????
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Old 12-04-2008, 01:52 AM   #8
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bobpie,

Put a drop of threadlock on the pin before you tap it back into place and it should be good enough to keep it from backing out again. Use the medium strength such as Permatex Threadlocker Blue.

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Old 12-04-2008, 05:31 AM   #9
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Anyone else please.

Don and barb
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Old 12-04-2008, 06:43 AM   #10
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Don:

Even if the door has foam inside, does the plunger mechanism in the edge of the door have rivets in it? If so, you will need to drill out the rivets to remove the mechanism.

Does that help?
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:45 AM   #11
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Thanks smlranger. Yes it does have rivets.But the mechanism is inside the door. I can drill the rivets out ok but how do I get the mechanism out with all the foam inside the door???

Thanks Don and Barb
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:49 AM   #12
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I just did my on the 99 Suncruiser 34v. I had to do the rivets, and corner brackets. Then the end will slide out. It was really easy. Make sure you get the rivet 1/2 down on the inside. I missed it at first. Came right off and easy to get to when you get the screws and rivets out. Spent 1/2 on first, less than 10 minutes on the second one. I spent most of the time fiddle around with the pop rivet gun.
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Old 12-04-2008, 07:03 PM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tcloud7:
Hi guys. I need to renew this one. I took the 4 screws holding the handle off and the door has a sheet of foam inside so I can't get the plastic plunger out even if I drill the rivets out. Its a 1999 Adventurer Pusher Model 34V ISB 5.9

Any ideas???? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

When you say to undid the screws holding the handle on are you talking about the outside of the door or the inside? On my Vectra there is a raised plastic cover over the lock mechanism on the inside of the door. When that is removed it exposes the lock and the rods that go to each latch. The door is full of styrofoam, but there is channel on each side for the latch rod.
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Old 12-05-2008, 04:59 AM   #14
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Yes Chris I was talking about screws holding the handle on the inside. Mine sound just like yours. I will be giving it a go this morning.

Thanks Don and Barb
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:01 AM   #15
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In that case it's simple to unhook the actuator rods from the handle mechanism, drill out the pop rivets, and remove the latch assembly. Transfer the rod to the new latch, put it back in place with some pop rivets, and re-attach the rod to the handle mechanism. If you didnt' have the styrofoam you might need to attach a line to the actuator rod to make it easy to get it back to the handle.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:46 PM   #16
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Chris. On my doors I have the slot in the foam inside the doors as you do but the mechanism with the plastic latch that locks the door thats held by the rivets is on the inside of the door so it cannot be removed from the inside because of the foam. If it was on the outside of the door edge it would be nice.
I have been sick today but hope the try what Jeeperrmartin said and remove the end.

Thanks Don and Barb
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:39 PM   #17
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When I removed the end after the rivots, and screws were out of the l brackets, I used a piece of wood and lightly tapped the end, and it slid right out.

I turned out a lot easier than I thought.
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Old 12-06-2008, 11:08 AM   #18
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Thank you thank you Jeeperrmartin. I just got it done. Thanks for posting it so I gould understand it. The frist side took about 30 mins. the second side took about 15 mins.
Maybe we sill see you at Dome Rock in Jan.

Thanks again

Don and Barb
I just love this forum. I have learned so much
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