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Old 06-24-2010, 11:57 AM   #1
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Step repair!

I have been doing some searching and have found several threads about the problem with the step mounting plate cracking and the stud's pulling out. But in all of it no one explained how you go about getting the bottom step out so you can get in there to work? I dont like the thought of blindly welding in this area and I would realy like to get access from the top to install a heavier plate with bolts to secure my steps.

My coach is a 99 35U Cheiftan

Any help would be appreciated
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Old 06-25-2010, 03:23 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by jscobra97 View Post
I have been doing some searching and have found several threads about the problem with the step mounting plate cracking and the stud's pulling out. But in all of it no one explained how you go about getting the bottom step out so you can get in there to work? I dont like the thought of blindly welding in this area and I would realy like to get access from the top to install a heavier plate with bolts to secure my steps.

My coach is a 99 35U Cheiftan

Any help would be appreciated
use the search function to check my recent post in "winnebago battery compartment repair'', post #19 for the stair repair that i designed and implemented, including pictures. the battery compartment floor is related to the bottom stair mount cracking.
my understanding of the best repair is to cut the lower inside stair out with a metal grinder or saw to implement a doubler repair with angle iron and thicker sheet metal on the panel that the electric steps mount to.
i didn't want to go there at this time.
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:59 AM   #3
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I was able to do it by cutting a hole over the stud with a hole saw. I then welded a plate on from the bottom. I drilled the plate for the 4 mounting studs and was then able to weld to some stronger material on the sides of the first inside step. I do have pictures some place.
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:05 AM   #4
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On my 2000 Suncruiser I was able to unbolt it from the studs(3 studs, the other pulled thru) I took it to a welder and he welded a 1/8th or 3/16" plate, with new studs installed, to the sides of the opening and then bolted the steps to the studs in the new plate. Before he welded in the new plate he bolted the steps to the plate and dry fitted the steps to be sure that the operating mechanism lined up and didn't bind. All the work was done from under the RV.
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:27 AM   #5
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jscobra97,
I went back and re-read your post. When you refer to the bottom step, are you referring to the surface where the studs are welded to? If so, just cut out the old studs and the bolt heads of the new studs will fit nicely into those holes.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:47 AM   #6
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jscobra97,
I went back and re-read your post. When you refer to the bottom step, are you referring to the surface where the studs are welded to? If so, just cut out the old studs and the bolt heads of the new studs will fit nicely into those holes.
What I was refering to was the bottom step of the motorhome is that the same surface as where the studs stick out? I have one broken stud and about an 8 inch crack in the plate I was hoping to gain access from the top to weld in new plate and take care of the broken stud. I havent had time to take a better look at it as I am working on the generator repairs right now but hope to tear into the step issue next week.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:18 AM   #7
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Here are pictures of my step taken before I repaired it

Cracked stud mount for step
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:03 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jscobra97 View Post
What I was refering to was the bottom step of the motorhome is that the same surface as where the studs stick out? I have one broken stud and about an 8 inch crack in the plate I was hoping to gain access from the top to weld in new plate and take care of the broken stud. I havent had time to take a better look at it as I am working on the generator repairs right now but hope to tear into the step issue next week.
There is no need to take the bottom step out. Unbolt the steps from underneath, I think there are four bolts. Cut out the old bolts(studs), the holes will make room for the new bolt heads on the new plate. Its important that the new plate is welded to the sides of the opening where the metal is thick. I think my new metal plate is 3/16" boiler plate.
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:33 PM   #9
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Now I know what your referring to. There is about 6" of dead space between the step in the MH and the plate that's cracked underneath. I highly recommend that once the new plate is cut and the studs welded in place, temporarily, mount the stairs to the plate and fit the stairs in place and connect the linkage. I had a hard time trying to put the pin in the linkage when I was done and I wouldn't have if I connected the linkage before it was permanently welded.
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