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Old 07-08-2018, 02:04 PM   #1
Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Cocoa, FL
Posts: 10
Exclamation Starting problem on 2004 35U adventurer

Hi all, haven't been active for some time. now I have a electrical starting problem on 2004 35U adventurer. Last Florida hurrcane was the first time i used the coach to run away from Irma. bought two new house batteries. did not have any problems with engine start battery. but today could not start so checked engine battery and it was totally dead so bought a new one $110.00. installed it but still unable to start engine. I have a 50amp plug on the side of the house. most of the interior systems are working. but just the selond just clicks like I have a dead battery. dash lights all come on but as soon as I turn the key to start the dash lights start dimming. any suggestions.
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Old 07-09-2018, 05:11 PM   #2
Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 133
From the factory the converter charges the house batteries but not the chassis battery. The ECM will drain the chassis battery if left sitting long enough.

Use the boost switch on the dash, hold it on and try starting the engine. If that works I would look at your chassis battery connections. Actually I would check the connections no matter what. It's possible the starter is toast but more likely a bad connection somewhere. At the battery, at the starter, ground (negative) wire from battery to frame.
Hank & Lynda
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 35U
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Old 07-09-2018, 07:04 PM   #3
Winnebago Master
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 1,448
Although it's not related to your problem, you should think about upgrading your converter to a modern multi-stage converter. Your house batteries will last longer with the new technology. I did it on my 2002 35U and it's a pretty simple process.

Here's what I used for a replacement ($117 at Amazon):

On mine, the color codes on the wires weren't logical and didn't match Winnebago's wiring diagram, so be careful. My advice is to unscrew the existing converter from the floor and pull it out so you can see all the wire connections. Carefully disconnect one wire at a time, noting the name on its terminal and connect it to the matching terminal on the new converter. You may have to unscrew one or more wire "hold-downs" to do this. Once all the wires have been connected to the new converter you can mount it to the floor and re-secure any wire hold-downs.

I didn't do this, disconnected all the wires and connected them to the new converter in what seemed to be the logical order based on conventional color codes. As soon as I flipped the breaker, the new converter started smoking and blew it's internal fuse. Fortunately I was lucky and it seems OK after I replaced the fuse. I monitored the voltage output periodically and it's stepping through the charge phases as it should.
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