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06-13-2011, 09:23 AM
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#1
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 15
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Square holes in gutter
Our 2005 Winnebago Sightseer 29r has a square hole in the gutters, about halfway between the front and back. They look like they were made that way, but the run-off from the air conditioner drains out these holes and runs down the sides of the MH leaving streaks.
Anyone know if these holes have a purpose?
Maybe they used to have a plug in there that has fallen out?
I'm pondering plugging them myself but don't want to spoil some grand design that Winnebago spent millions of $'s in R&D funds on.
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06-13-2011, 10:21 AM
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#2
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Winnebago Watcher
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n9iui
Our 2005 Winnebago Sightseer 29r has a square hole in the gutters, about halfway between the front and back. They look like they were made that way, but the run-off from the air conditioner drains out these holes and runs down the sides of the MH leaving streaks.
Anyone know if these holes have a purpose?
Maybe they used to have a plug in there that has fallen out?
I'm pondering plugging them myself but don't want to spoil some grand design that Winnebago spent millions of $'s in R&D funds on.
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I have the same model and year and wondered the same thing, however I now believe these are the attachment access for installing the gutters.
The reason I believe this is because I purchase those drip extenders and the instructions stated to remove the vinyl strip that covers the screws attaching the gutter, to my surprise the gutters on our coach don't have the vinyl inserts , so much for installing the drip extenders.
If you find out I'm wrong let me know.
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06-13-2011, 05:39 PM
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#3
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ldowning
I have the same model and year and wondered the same thing, however I now believe these are the attachment access for installing the gutters.
The reason I believe this is because I purchase those drip extenders and the instructions stated to remove the vinyl strip that covers the screws attaching the gutter, to my surprise the gutters on our coach don't have the vinyl inserts , so much for installing the drip extenders.
If you find out I'm wrong let me know.
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I'll let you know. I just bought a set of the drip extenders but our MH is in the shop so I don't know when I'll get to it.
The holes I'm talking about though are midway between the front and the back of the MH, about even with the AC unit on the roof. Not where the drip extenders would go.
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06-13-2011, 11:32 PM
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#4
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 548
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I'm pretty sure these are weep holes to allow any water that gets past the roof seal to drain outside instead of inside. I have some spots near the rear where the roof-to-gutter seal is open. When it rains I get a small amount of water flow out the square holes. For years when my roof seal was 100%, no water exited the weep holes.
Maybe someone else can confirm my theory.
Bill
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06-14-2011, 06:24 PM
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#5
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 15
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I hope you don't mean that the AC is leaking under the roof!? I got rid of our last MH due to damage from a leak.
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06-14-2011, 08:01 PM
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#6
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n9iui
I hope you don't mean that the AC is leaking under the roof!? I got rid of our last MH due to damage from a leak.
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No, I don't mean that condensate is leaking from the AC in the middle of the roof and then running under the roof over to the edge.
What I'm talking about is a broken seal right at the edge of the roof. The seal right above the gutter is the place where Winnie says to check once or twice a year. You can test for a broken seal by using your finger to push the fiberglass in right above the seal. If you can see it move away from the sealer, then it can leak in at that point. Any water that gets in there is trapped in the aluminum extrusion channel until it flows out those square holes.
Your motorhome won't be damaged from a leak of this sort because the water is directed to the outside and not down in the wall. The alum extrusion that connects the wall to the roof is a rather elaborate and has one edge just inside the fiberglass that is about 1.5 inches higher than the seal. One time going down a steep driveway I had some water flow out the end of the extrusion above the drivers seat. That told me it's time to reseal the roof.
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06-26-2011, 01:13 PM
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#7
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Winnebago Watcher
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n9iui
I'll let you know. I just bought a set of the drip extenders but our MH is in the shop so I don't know when I'll get to it.
The holes I'm talking about though are midway between the front and the back of the MH, about even with the AC unit on the roof. Not where the drip extenders would go.
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Hi, I was wondering about the drip extenders, did you get them installed?
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06-27-2011, 05:56 AM
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#8
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ldowning
Hi, I was wondering about the drip extenders, did you get them installed?
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No, they don't quite fit right. My gutters seem to be missing an end piece that the spouts clip onto.
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06-28-2011, 10:37 AM
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#9
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Apex, NC
Posts: 449
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Bill is correct about the purpose of the square holes. Don't plug them. I have a 2006 29R. My awning rail is 2 pieces butted together. That is where my rail was leaking water down the outside of the MH. I fixed it by putting a small piece of aluminum duct tape into the U in the top of the rail -- no more water running down the side.
Concerning the gutter extensions, good luck with that. I've been searching for 5 years on and off and haven't found any that fit. The gutters are not missing any plastic ends, water just runs out the open ends of the gutter (awning rail) and down the sides of the coach.
__________________
2010 Winnebago Journey Express 34Y
2010 Freightliner XCS (mfd 9/'09)
'07 Saturn Vue V6
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06-29-2011, 04:49 PM
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#10
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Winnebago Watcher
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChasA
Bill is correct about the purpose of the square holes. Don't plug them. I have a 2006 29R. My awning rail is 2 pieces butted together. That is where my rail was leaking water down the outside of the MH. I fixed it by putting a small piece of aluminum duct tape into the U in the top of the rail -- no more water running down the side.
Concerning the gutter extensions, good luck with that. I've been searching for 5 years on and off and haven't found any that fit. The gutters are not missing any plastic ends, water just runs out the open ends of the gutter (awning rail) and down the sides of the coach.
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My 2005 29R gutters are the same 2 pieces butted together. I thought the square holes were the access for attaching the gutters since I can not figure out how they are attached otherwise. From what I've read most gutters have a vinyl strip running along the inside top edge which cover the screws attaching the gutter to the RV, but the gutter on mine is solid metal there is no vinyl insert.
If you know how the gutters are attached I would be real interested.
Thanks.
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06-29-2011, 07:31 PM
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#11
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Apex, NC
Posts: 449
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The awning rail is attached through the wall with screws under the roof skin. There's no way to get to them unless you remove the roof. I'll try to attach a pdf file that shows this.
__________________
2010 Winnebago Journey Express 34Y
2010 Freightliner XCS (mfd 9/'09)
'07 Saturn Vue V6
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06-30-2011, 06:11 PM
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#12
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Coaldale, AB
Posts: 64
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We have the same MH but I have not noticed any square holes, I will have to have a look for them.
__________________
05 Itasca Sunova 29R
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07-01-2011, 05:42 AM
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#13
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duner
No, I don't mean that condensate is leaking from the AC in the middle of the roof and then running under the roof over to the edge.
What I'm talking about is a broken seal right at the edge of the roof. The seal right above the gutter is the place where Winnie says to check once or twice a year. You can test for a broken seal by using your finger to push the fiberglass in right above the seal. If you can see it move away from the sealer, then it can leak in at that point. Any water that gets in there is trapped in the aluminum extrusion channel until it flows out those square holes.
Your motorhome won't be damaged from a leak of this sort because the water is directed to the outside and not down in the wall. The alum extrusion that connects the wall to the roof is a rather elaborate and has one edge just inside the fiberglass that is about 1.5 inches higher than the seal. One time going down a steep driveway I had some water flow out the end of the extrusion above the drivers seat. That told me it's time to reseal the roof.
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That's my problem! I finally got the Winnie together with a ladder and checked it out. There is a visible gap along one edge where the caulk has pulled away. Any idea what caulk I should use? I have the sealant chart in the manual but Winnebago numbers don't do me any good; I was told W can't ship the caulk due to hazmat regulations. I need a substitute I can buy locally.
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07-01-2011, 08:03 PM
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#14
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 167
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n9iui,
Its not just calk, its adhesive. There are several threads here in the Winni forum on how to do it.
When we did ours we rented a scissor lift. I cant imagine doing it without one.
http://www.winnebagoind.com/resource...%20Sealing.pdf
__________________
Bill & Dar - 2012 Journey 40U
STP, Bilsteins, Ready Brute pulling a 2013 Avalanche Z71
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07-02-2011, 02:27 AM
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#15
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n9iui
That's my problem! I finally got the Winnie together with a ladder and checked it out. There is a visible gap along one edge where the caulk has pulled away. Any idea what caulk I should use? I have the sealant chart in the manual but Winnebago numbers don't do me any good; I was told W can't ship the caulk due to hazmat regulations. I need a substitute I can buy locally.
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eternabond tape is permanent.
there are threads on this forum with pictures detailing how to install it. use the search function.
Roof Leak Repair Products & Sealing Tape | EternaBond
__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
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07-02-2011, 11:07 AM
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#16
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n9iui
That's my problem! I finally got the Winnie together with a ladder and checked it out. There is a visible gap along one edge where the caulk has pulled away. Any idea what caulk I should use? I have the sealant chart in the manual but Winnebago numbers don't do me any good; I was told W can't ship the caulk due to hazmat regulations. I need a substitute I can buy locally.
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I re-sealed my roof about 5 or 6 yrs ago with OSI Quad from Home Depot and it has held up very well. I scraped out the factory sealant which was not penetrating very deep and it had pulled away in many areas. I applied the the new sealant much deeper into the joint...1/4" to 3/8" and I think that has made it work so well for so long.
Mine is full body paint so I won't use Eternabond, but if yours is all white, that would be a good choice.
I copied this from HomeDepot.com:
OSI QUAD Advanced Formula Window, Door and Siding Sealant Clear 10 Fl. Oz.
$5.44
FINISH: Clear
Description:
OSI QUAD Advanced Formula Sealant is composed of elastomeric polymers and high quality synthetic resins. This product offers the superior adhesion characteristics and unmatched elasticity found in high performance sealants. It yields a tough, rubbery seal which resists outdoor weather-related elements like water, oxygen, ozone, heat and UV light. The formula skins over in a short time to resist dirt and dust pickup. It goes on smoothly and has easy cut-off without stringing. When cured, the surface displays a slight sheen similar to some silicone sealants. QUAD is paintable with either latex or oil-based paints.
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