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Old 05-09-2010, 01:19 PM   #1
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Slide won't open completely on one side...

My bedroom slide is off a little, has become a little noisier, and locks up with one side not out enough to seal on the inside. So the outside gasket is functional, but I can get my fingers between the wall and the inner seal at the bottom left. The top is tight, and the other side is tight all the way up. The machinery is under the bed. Can an adjustment be made? I'm concerned that this could get worse... Thanks for any advice!
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:43 AM   #2
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My bedroom slide is off a little, has become a little noisier, and locks up with one side not out enough to seal on the inside. So the outside gasket is functional, but I can get my fingers between the wall and the inner seal at the bottom left. The top is tight, and the other side is tight all the way up. The machinery is under the bed. Can an adjustment be made? I'm concerned that this could get worse... Thanks for any advice!
you don't say what brand of slide you have. it sounds to me like you are low on fluid and have air in your system.
check for hydraulic leaks in the lines. repair any leaks found. then, the next time you have both slides (front and rear) retracted fully and the jacks retracted fully, make sure that the hydraulic reservoir is full. mine uses dexron 3 atf. hwh fluid is the same thing without the pink coloring and is much more expensive.
operating the slide several times with a cooling off period between times for the hydraulic pump motor will eventually bleed any air out of the hydraulic system.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:14 PM   #3
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Make sure you consistently use the techniques explained in the coach user manuals and HWH website concerning extending the time the retract or extend button is presses. You need to give the slides an extra 10 to 20 seconds of actuation time after they are fully extended or retracted in order to alleviate any unequal pressures/quantities between the forward and aft extension cylinders.
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:22 AM   #4
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Make sure you consistently use the techniques explained in the coach user manuals and HWH website concerning extending the time the retract or extend button is presses. You need to give the slides an extra 10 to 20 seconds of actuation time after they are fully extended or retracted in order to alleviate any unequal pressures/quantities between the forward and aft extension cylinders.
Paul, can you tell me where you saw info about the "extra" actuation time? I've held the buttons, but no help. There is a manual method to "realign" the two drives, but I'm waiting to discuss it with a Kwikee tech before I do it. Thanks for the help.

Also Dan, are you saying a good quality ATF is the fluid to use in topping off the reservoir? I'm also wondering how the system can bleed itself? Thanks for your assistance as well!
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Old 05-11-2010, 01:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul T View Post
Make sure you consistently use the techniques explained in the coach user manuals and HWH website concerning extending the time the retract or extend button is presses. You need to give the slides an extra 10 to 20 seconds of actuation time after they are fully extended or retracted in order to alleviate any unequal pressures/quantities between the forward and aft extension cylinders.
Adding to Paul's response, recommend that you check for updates to your HWH Operating Manuals/Supplements. Winnebago Industries Operators' Manuals
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Old 05-11-2010, 04:08 PM   #6
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Paul, can you tell me where you saw info about the "extra" actuation time? I've held the buttons, but no help. There is a manual method to "realign" the two drives, but I'm waiting to discuss it with a Kwikee tech before I do it. Thanks for the help.

Also Dan, are you saying a good quality ATF is the fluid to use in topping off the reservoir? I'm also wondering how the system can bleed itself? Thanks for your assistance as well!
hwh systems are self bleeding. hwh uses colorless dexron 3 for hydraulic fluid. i don't know what kwikee uses. which system do you have?
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Old 05-11-2010, 04:39 PM   #7
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My reco is do NOT continue to press the extend/retract button for an extended period, like 10-20 secs, after cylinders have been fully extended or retracted. Continuing to press on the button increases the hydraulic pressure to the point where the over pressure value will open. This puts a very unnecessary and very HUGE stress on all of the hydraulic components.. the lines, the seals, the pump, the valves, which will eventually lead to premature failure of any or all of these components. Listen to the load on the pump.... an additional 3 or 4 seconds should start building huge pressure which will start dragging the pump speed down. At that point the pump is drawing huge amounts of current and everything in the system is being severely and unnecessarily overloaded.

Once the slide is totally in, or out, and the cylinder has reached it max travel limit then within a second release the button. This brief additional second is more than sufficient to build adequate pressure to hold the cylinders in place which will hold the slide in place.
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:04 PM   #8
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Dan L: Assumptions and wrong assumptions!
My info comes from the HWH website, (http://www.hwhcorp.com/), for my specific system. I assumed your system was also HWH. So sorry, it may not be applicable to your system.
In my HWH system when the cylinders reach their far end of travel and if pressure is maintained for a short time period the design allows for an equalizing of any small fluid differential between the cylinders. Perhaps 5 seconds is more applicable than 15 for such purposes and I should have referenced the HWH website instead of paraphrasing. I hope you solve your problem. And when you do, please pass along the solution.
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:16 PM   #9
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Paul, I also hold the "Extend" switch for three to four seconds after the room is fully extended. This is per the HWH "Room Extend Procedure" (MP35.9300, 24 Apr 03) -- HWH cautions to not hold the "Extend" switch for more than ten seconds. HWH states "This assures proper pressurization of the cylinders."
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Old 05-13-2010, 08:05 AM   #10
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Hi, your coach does not have HWH Slide Mechanisms. There is no Hyd. Fluid used, the slides are electric. The rear slide has only one screw, the front has two. I would contact Winnebago to find out if there is an adjustment to correct this problem. Has Kwikee responded to your question?
Please let us know when you find out what has caused this problem.

Thank you and good luck!
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Old 05-13-2010, 11:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Hi, your coach does not have HWH Slide Mechanisms. There is no Hyd. Fluid used, the slides are electric. The rear slide has only one screw, the front has two. I would contact Winnebago to find out if there is an adjustment to correct this problem. Has Kwikee responded to your question?
Please let us know when you find out what has caused this problem.

Thank you and good luck!
Thanks to all. You are correct millrv, my system is electric. There is a procedure whereby you use the extend/retract buttons to "even" out the screws. But my rear slide is the problem, and if you are correct and it only has one screw, how does it even out? I'm wondering if I can use the hand cranking tool to push it? I will contact Kwikee and get to the bottom of this, then post back. I appreciate all comments.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:05 PM   #12
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Thanks to all. You are correct millrv, my system is electric. There is a procedure whereby you use the extend/retract buttons to "even" out the screws. But my rear slide is the problem, and if you are correct and it only has one screw, how does it even out? I'm wondering if I can use the hand cranking tool to push it? I will contact Kwikee and get to the bottom of this, then post back. I appreciate all comments.
Please do post your findings as my 35L (08) always has one side that makes contact first by about an inch and a half. I hold the button till it cuts out and it does even out.
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Old 05-13-2010, 11:47 PM   #13
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I googled Kwikee today, got a single 800 number, but it was "no longer in service." I'll try to locate a number after talking with Winnebago tomorrow.

Roger your post Zippo, I'll post any info I can get.
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:25 AM   #14
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Dan L: Assumptions and wrong assumptions!
My info comes from the HWH website, (http://www.hwhcorp.com/), for my specific system. I assumed your system was also HWH. So sorry, it may not be applicable to your system.
In my HWH system when the cylinders reach their far end of travel and if pressure is maintained for a short time period the design allows for an equalizing of any small fluid differential between the cylinders. Perhaps 5 seconds is more applicable than 15 for such purposes and I should have referenced the HWH website instead of paraphrasing. I hope you solve your problem. And when you do, please pass along the solution.
paul t,
what r u talking about???
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Old 05-14-2010, 08:11 AM   #15
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I will describe 3 slide systems..

Rack and Pinion, normally used on large slides, this type has a long toothed rail (rack) with a gear (pinion) that turns moving the rail in and out, it is normally on the bottom (outside look up) of the slide.. One company that makes these is power Hear

Hydraulic.. Pistons are filled with hydraulic fulid moving the slide in and out.. one maker is HWH

Cable car system. This system has 4 (really 8) cables, one top and one bottom on both the left and right sides, which you can see when it is all the way out.. (The other four are on the inside) One maker: Accu-Slide

I have both the rack & pinion (power gear) which shears shear pins like they were toothpicks in my case (I buy 'em by the dozen)

And the Accu-Slide cable car

On the accuslide the power unit is either over the slide (header) or below it (usually over) and when you remove the trim you will see it up there. Depending on the slide out you may remove the part that slides out or the part that does not slide.

There will be eight long bolts with joiner nuts on them, the bolts connect to a cable (the 8 cables) and one of the nuts has fallen off, they are quarter inch standard thread.

That is if you have the accu-slide type.. Or .. you have a broken cable.
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Old 05-14-2010, 08:22 AM   #16
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In addition there is Kwikee, now apparently owned by Power Gear. Kwikee uses an electric motor at the end of long threaded rod. My 07 Voyage has these slide mechanisms and for better of worse they are mine. So far so good, but I would much rather have the HWH Slide System. It obviously was not a deal breaker and I sure hope that it was a good decision, time will tell.
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Old 05-14-2010, 12:13 PM   #17
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During the PDI ours did that plus made a popping sound. The techs made a series of adjustments and it has worked correctly since. I don't know what they adjusted but it took them about an hour to get it right. So yes there are adjustments. Do you get any kind of error code (blinking led light) at the panel ?
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Old 05-14-2010, 12:19 PM   #18
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This report from indy Itasca is encouraging. I cannot find any information on how to adjust Kwikee Slides but if there is a way, and apparently there is, we need to find out how.
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:09 PM   #19
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Well I've never worked on one. I did talk to the tech who fixed ours and he said that on the Kwikees there are levelers and limit stops on the arms that come out. He said that they expect the arms to come out at a slightly different rate because no slideout room is square. There are some sort of limit switches on each side and when one side hits the limit the other is allowed to travel a preset distance to catch up. If the first limit isn't set correctly the second never gets all the way out. Don't know if this helps or not....
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Old 05-16-2010, 12:43 AM   #20
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Not sure what you have but if its KWIKEE scrool down this link to slide system controls you have and it may help you out.
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