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Old 11-23-2009, 06:44 PM   #1
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Question Slide lock problem

I have a 2009 Tour and today the slide lock on the passenger side would not work. I pulled the cover off and with a little bit of disassembly found that the lead screw that pushes and pulls on the locking mechanism was jammed tightly enough that the motor couldn't break it loose. I pulled the pin that couples the motor to the lead screw and was able to get thing turning again. The motor is able to power the lead screw and operate the lock, but when I go into the un-lock mode, the lead screw jams again. It seems like the micro switches are not turning off the motor before it reaches the end of the lead screw travel.

Does anyone know how to check the switches and how they are supposed to operate. I'm a bit confused why there are two switches on the unlock end of travel and no switches on the lock end of travel. A brief description on the theory of operation would be a big help.

Bill Barton
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Old 11-25-2009, 07:42 AM   #2
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I can't help you with theory of operation but I own a 2007 Ellipse which is the Itasca sister ship to your and had the same slide lock fail and replaced under extended wty.

Good Luck.
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:09 AM   #3
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This is a well known Winnebago problem. The solution is to take the cover off the slide lock and loosen the four silver nuts so that you can wiggle the lock mechanism. This eliminates the binding and frees up the mechanism. Then tighten the nuts again and you are good to go until it happens again. Winnebago does not have any solution to this problem as of last summer when I was there and asked them about it. I guess it is just a poor design.
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:55 AM   #4
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Where is the cover that you mention? I have wondered where the mechanism is that drives the locks
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Old 11-25-2009, 08:46 PM   #5
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Slide lock covers

In my 09 Tour, the slide lock mechanisms are inside the storage areas above the couch on one side and dining table on the other. Just open up the small doors that are near the center of the slides, and you will see a black plastic box that is about 8"W x 12"L x 3"H. The box is attached to the ceiling with four screws. Once you take out the screws and remove the black box, you can see the lock mechanism inside.

It's good to know where the locks are in case you need to do an emergency lock or un-lock. The motor can be removed by pulling two pins. Once the motor is out of the way, you can turn the leadscrew by hand and either lock or un-lock the slide. This is what I had to do the other day.

Bill
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Old 11-26-2009, 06:47 AM   #6
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We had this problem in our 09 tour. A tech suggested that I hold the rocker switch in the in position for 2 or 3 seconds . This worked for me and I hope it might for you.
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Old 11-27-2009, 12:09 AM   #7
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Are you talking about holding the rocker switch for slide in the "IN" position for a couple of seconds? I can see how this might be helpful in getting the lock to release, but in my case I cannot get it to lock. The mechanism is stuck in the un-lock position.

Perhaps I don't understand what you are telling me.

Thanks, Bill
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:00 AM   #8
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Bill,
I had the same problem with my Vectra. The problem is when your lock is lowered the end of the jack jams a small washer between the steel slide and the end point. The relays you see are merely to provide electricity for the direction of the spin on the motor. Like you, I have had to remove the cover and twist the screw to get it loose. My understanding is that they changed the washer from a soft brass washer to a more solid washer (perhaps steel).
In any event, what I do is when I unlock I listen for the unit to "hit the end" and then toggle the switch to lock for just a second. That pulls the jack away from the end point, and releases the washer that keeps getting jammed. It took me several months when we were traveling full time to figure it out but I have have not had any problems since.
One more time, unlock it until you hear the clunk; then toggle the switch for a second to back off the lock (and washer) from the stop position to keep it from being jammed. I hope this makes sense. Go ahead and put some grease on both sides of the washer but my washer was bent pretty bad and the grease was not going to do much. You can see the washer jam if you spin the screw with the cover off. Safe and enjoyable travels.
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:59 PM   #9
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I understand what you are saying. On my 09 Tour, the washer is a needle thrust bearing. It is like a flat washer, but has steel rollers designed for reducing friction. Perhaps they have changed the design since your unit was built, but the jamming problem remains. Actually an argument can be made that the needle thrust bearing may make things worse because it allows the system to tighten up even more when things bottom out.

My assumption was that the switches were used to cut off the power to the motor before it hit the stop, but perhaps not. If the basic design allows the lead screw nut to bottom out against a solid stop, a jam is almost guaranteed.

I have pulled the cover off the other side, but haven't gotten back to it to examine the slide lock that is working. When I do some more probing, I will report back to the list.

Bill Barton
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:41 PM   #10
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The driver side slide lock on my Destination quit working while under warranty. They replaced a circuit board. It quit locking again about 2 months ago. They replaced the motor under my extended warranty. It then wouldn't unlock and they had to adjust a micro switch. The motor on mine is located in a cabinet over the sofa.
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:26 AM   #11
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Bill,
While I think of it. Get a small step and look over the top of the slide when it is closed so you can see the top of the lock. After you see that it is really a big "hook" that comes up like a scissor jack. You then realize you have lots of clearance to toggle the switch back to release the jam.
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:08 PM   #12
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As someone suggested, I have confirmed that the micro switches on the actuators do not keep the jack screw from hitting a hard stop. The switches are wired to keep the slide from moving unless the locks are in the un-lock position.

This is bad news, running a high force lead screw actuator into a hard stop is just poor design work. It almost guarantees that the system will bind. Until Winnebago addresses the fundamental problem of the hard stop, changing washers and/or putting in roller thrust bearings will not do much good.

My career was designing precision mechanisms, and the Winnebago system should have never made it past the first design review.

Bill Barton
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Old 12-09-2009, 05:36 PM   #13
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While on the topic of slide locks, remember to clean out the drain hole for the mechanism on the outside.

About 5-6 inches below the top of the slide, on the outside opposite the lock is a little round, dime sized drain with a tiny hole in it. You need to periodically clean it with a toothpick or a straightend out paper clip. The lock mechanism is in a depression on the slide top and collects water during hard, windy rainstorms. This drain keeps the water from coming inside your MH.

However, dust and dirt do collect over time and clog the hole, causing leakage into the cabinets thru the slide lock mechanism.

I have the cleaning out of the drain holes on my maintenance schedule now.

Best Regards!
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:02 PM   #14
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If your slide out lock is stuck in the unlock position, do the following:

1) Remove back cover from over lock motor assy.
2) Get your 16 or 19 or whatever VDC cordless drill battery and a set of meter leads (or something comparable).
3) Unplug motor.
4) Attach appropriate end of red meter lead to yellow motor wire.
5) Attach appropriate end of black meter lead to black motor wire.
6) Briefly touch RED lead to (-) battery post and BLACK to (+) battery post.
7) Yes please, reverse polarity.
8) Motor will jump and all is now well until next time this happens (or until 'Bago designs this correctly which will not happen).
9) Remove leads, plug motor back in, test using regular switch in cockpit, replace cover.
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:17 PM   #15
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NoMoreAz,
Thank you for your post. Help me understand what is occurring? If you reverse the connection you spin the motor in the opposite direction which some people do to release the jam. But, I don't understand why it wouldn't just re-occur? Thanks.
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Old 12-13-2009, 11:39 AM   #16
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That is "exactly" what I tried when the slide lock stuck. I used an 18V Ryobi battery. Unfortunately my lock was stuck so tight the extra voltage still wouldn't break it loose. I ended up pulling the pin and turning the leadscrew a half turn by hand.

The lock design reminds me of the power windows in an old Jag sedan that I once owned. Jaguar was smarter than Winnebago though, they provided a hand crank that could be inserted through the bottom of the door so you could turn the motor shaft and break the jam loose. Sort of a stone axe solution, but better than what Winnebago provided.
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:13 PM   #17
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The problem does reoccur, probably because of what Ouraydog has said here. My procedure is an alternative to removing the pin, etc. I have used this procudure too many times to suit me. I too am looking for a proper permanent fix. Our left (Room 1) slideout is where our failure is; Room 3 is ok, so far. If one watches the motor and leadscrew assy when it id traveling to the 'unlock' position, at the end of the travel there is so much momentum or force that the motor starts to travel in a ccw direction and jams!
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:43 AM   #18
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The motor armature acts like a flywheel and the stored energy is what jams the lead screw, just like an impact wrench.

The lock design almost guarantees failure.
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Old 04-17-2010, 03:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dengraham View Post
In any event, what I do is when I unlock I listen for the unit to "hit the end" and then toggle the switch to lock for just a second. That pulls the jack away from the end point, and releases the washer that keeps getting jammed. It took me several months when we were traveling full time to figure it out but I have have not had any problems since.
I just finished un-jamming my slide locking mechanism. I loosened the 4 nuts and wiggled the solenoid (as described by "Doug Sage"), which apparently "dis-lodged" the bolt from being backed all the way back against the stop. Anyway, I think I'm going to use the above procedure from now on since it makes sense to me that I was holding the lock button in too long and causing the screw to get jammed against the stop. Thanks for the info!
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Old 04-17-2010, 06:18 PM   #20
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Guymon.Hall,
You are welcome. I'm glad you figured out how to un-jam it. It can be very frustrating. I appreciate the note and glad to help. Safe travels.
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