Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-23-2007, 02:35 AM   #1
Winnebago Owner
 
CC38EL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: McCordsville
Posts: 216
Dash air has stopped cooling. The connections and interfaces seem automotive in type, and I was wondering if anyone has serviced a A/C unit on a Spartan Mountain Master chassis, circa 2002.
__________________
Jim

2017 Cedar Creek 38EL/2015 Silverado 3500HD
CC38EL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2007, 02:35 AM   #2
Winnebago Owner
 
CC38EL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: McCordsville
Posts: 216
Dash air has stopped cooling. The connections and interfaces seem automotive in type, and I was wondering if anyone has serviced a A/C unit on a Spartan Mountain Master chassis, circa 2002.
__________________
Jim

2017 Cedar Creek 38EL/2015 Silverado 3500HD
CC38EL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2007, 06:35 PM   #3
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Full Time Traveler!
Posts: 16
ua40j: Just checking to see if you got this fixed. I am having the same problem with my new Ultimate Freedom...thx!!!
Craig
__________________
Craig Thompson

Full-Timer
craigt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2007, 02:22 AM   #4
Winnebago Owner
 
CC38EL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: McCordsville
Posts: 216
craigt,

I did get it fixed....for a while. I put in refrigerant and stop leak as recommended, but the cooling fans on the radiator did not come on nor did the compressor turn. I had a mobile technician look at it and he found a connector on the compressor was corroded. That repair got the compressor going, but still no cooling fans.

Took the cooling fans off and found both to be rusted stiff. Replaced both with fans from auto parts store and had A/C for about a month.

Now I have discovered a leak somewhere and I'm looking for it.

As for servicing, the connections are automotive and in the front next to the heater core. My low pressure cap is blue, yours may be a different color so look for the larger A/C line going to heater core. Auto parts stores sell a combo pressure guage and fill can and I do recommend using a guage.

The servicing process is fairly straight forward. Start engine and turn on A/C to max. If A/C compressor turns on, check pressure in line and if low, fill with refrigerant. Always make sure you keep the can upright so only vapor enters the system. Start slowly, adding only 1 can (13oz) at a time.

If no compressor (it won't come on for various reasons, one of which is no refrigerant), only add 1 can. If compressor still doesn't come on, need a professional to look at it. You can overpressurize your system, so be cautious.

Hope that helps.
__________________
Jim

2017 Cedar Creek 38EL/2015 Silverado 3500HD
CC38EL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2007, 04:23 AM   #5
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Full Time Traveler!
Posts: 16
Jim: Thanks! I will take a look at all this today. My rig has sat unused for 2.5 years! Everything needs to be looked at closely!

I will let you find out what happens...
Craig
__________________
Craig Thompson

Full-Timer
craigt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2007, 05:23 AM   #6
Winnebago Owner
 
CC38EL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: McCordsville
Posts: 216
Holy cow!

The a/c is just the tip of the iceberg. If you need an approach on how to confirm condition of stuff, I have a few recommendations. Let me know if you're interested.
__________________
Jim

2017 Cedar Creek 38EL/2015 Silverado 3500HD
CC38EL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2007, 01:58 PM   #7
Winnebago Owner
 
CC38EL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: McCordsville
Posts: 216
I wanted to let you all know that the airconditioner is finally fixed. And I learned an important tip which I'm passing on.

As I noted previously, I lost A/C, got it back, lost the A/C fans, replaced them. Lost the A/C again.

Well, it's fixed now. There is ONE wire on the compressor (yep, only one that I could find). It has a connector 8 inches down from where it enters the compressor. We thought it was clean, but turns out that this thing corrodes fairly easily. The whole time the A/C was not running the second time was because this connector had corroded contacts.

So if your A/C just stops working for no apparent reason, check that wire/connector first. Could save you a lot of refrigerant and time and effort.
__________________
Jim

2017 Cedar Creek 38EL/2015 Silverado 3500HD
CC38EL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2007, 06:24 PM   #8
KIX
Winnebago Master
 
KIX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Posts: 587
UA40J We have an '02 UA40J also. Thanks for the A/C "heads up".
__________________
KIX
'02 Ultimate Advantage 40J Spartan MM - Cummins ISC
KIX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 04:33 AM   #9
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: North East Indiana
Posts: 762
I wonder if this is the same wire that fried on mine two years ago. When tech called the Manf he was told it was probably either corroded contacts or a loose contact. He replaced and haven't had the problem again. It affected #2 compressor only.
Izzyblueye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 11:28 AM   #10
Winnebago Owner
 
Moder2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: On the Road in the USA
Posts: 171
Does anyone know what the pressure's are supposed to be on the Dash Air system?

I had some problems a while back, and traced it to bad cooling fans on the condenser. I replaced them with generic fans from Advance (they looked identical). I also put a can of freon in the system since on the low side I was reading 25lbs, the can didn't seem to raise it any. It is cooling, but seems like it could be cooling more. I have not taken a temp reading yet.

The other curious thing I question do the fans blow air through the condenser or pull air out? Mine blow it through, which I find slightly strange that they would plan to put more hot air into the engine compartment, but on the other hand I don't know that it would make sense to suck in hot air out of the engine compartment.

John
__________________
"It's always wrong, everywhere, for anyone, to believe anything beyond insufficient evidence" -- William Kingdon Clifford

John (N9MXX) & Derek (KC9KEM)
Moder2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 11:51 AM   #11
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 52
Last year we lost front a/c -- two problems

1. a little low on coolant

2. big problem was that the vac. tube that goes up under the dash by the driver had disconnected -- so not getting switch to change all the way from heat to cool on the dash control

Bill
__________________
Bill
FenceMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 12:55 PM   #12
Winnebago Owner
 
CC38EL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: McCordsville
Posts: 216
John, if I correlate your '25lbs' to the gauge that I got with my can of R134, then your system would be 'low' on my scale. My gauge has a 'full' range of 25-45. The system is automotive, so the stuff at AutoZone and other places works on the connections in my coach. (large pipe in front above generator with blue cap) You may want to invest in one of those guages (about $15). The fans I put on, I put on in the same direction as the main radiator fan. So, I blow hot air into the engine compartment as that is the way the air goes into the radiator. If it went the other way, it would probably cause less efficient cooling.

Bill...thanks for the vac hose tip. I had that happen once and had forgot about it.

By the way...using the gauge that came with my can of R134, I have put 4 cans of refrigerant into my system, 1 can of stop leak, and 1 can of refrigerant oil. I remain in the 'filled' zone and the A/C works great.
__________________
Jim

2017 Cedar Creek 38EL/2015 Silverado 3500HD
CC38EL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 01:12 PM   #13
Winnie-Wise
 
TXiceman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Full Time, TX Home Base
Posts: 432
The refrigerant system stop leak is a BAD thing. It will generally cause more problems than it will cure. If you had to add that much refrigerant and oil, you have a serious leak and it needs to be repaired soon or did you have the system open. If you had it open, you need to use a vacuum pump to dehydrate the prior to recharging. R134a and the POE are very hygroscopic.

Ken
__________________
Amateur Radio Operator (KE5DFR)|Full-Time! - 2012 6.7L Ford Crew Cab Dually -2013 HitchHiker Champagne 38RLRSB - Travel with one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot
TXiceman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 03:01 PM   #14
Winnebago Owner
 
Moder2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: On the Road in the USA
Posts: 171
Jim,

Thanks, That is how I also set the fans, blowing into the compartment. I wasn't sure which way they went since mine were both seized up.

Yes, I also bought the reusable gauge and can spigot, and yes, on a regular auto system I would say Yes, It is reading 25lbs, at the low end of the charged spectrum, which is exactly the same as it read before and after I put the can of 134a in. Most auto's only take about 3 cans of freon, so I didn't want to dump another can in since it didn't seem to have any effect by adding the can I did.

I am hesitant to add more since I don't have a high side gauge, and would hate to overfill the system and cause damage to the compressor.

Does anyone know the exact capacity or pressures for the system?

John
__________________
"It's always wrong, everywhere, for anyone, to believe anything beyond insufficient evidence" -- William Kingdon Clifford

John (N9MXX) & Derek (KC9KEM)
Moder2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2007, 03:55 PM   #15
Winnebago Owner
 
CC38EL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: McCordsville
Posts: 216
According to the Winnebago Service tips for A/C's, the Spartan chassis uses 40oz of R134.

My system was nearly empty and the stop leak was highly recommended by others to inject the dye necessary to find the leak. Also, being 5 years old, it was also recommended to add the oil.

Inspection of the system didn't reveal any leaks and that included following the hoses from the front air exchanger to the compressor to the heat exchanger except where they are hidden.

I didn't add the cans of R134 all at the same time. I used the gauge to determine if the system needed more R134 after running the A/C on a trip. This repair has been going on for about 4 months during which I would add a can of R134, drive the coach a couple of hundred miles, check the system again, and being low, add another can. System now reads 'filled' and cools effectively. Still no sign of the red dye, but I don't make a habit of crawling under the coach every trip.

I'll keep tabs on it and let you know if I've damaged the compressor or seals. But right now, it's working as advertised.
__________________
Jim

2017 Cedar Creek 38EL/2015 Silverado 3500HD
CC38EL is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Servicing the slide out at the factory... Davel Winnebago General Discussions 11 10-07-2011 10:54 PM
An interesting day servicing my motorhome RCtime General Maintenance and Repair 7 08-09-2008 08:41 AM
Air Dryer Servicing? LK23 Winnebago Lifestyle 17 10-28-2006 05:41 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.