RV/car cleaning success

[affreeman]

Do you / should you / would you use Wash Wax All on a fiberglass roof?

[smlranger]

I tried it on my fiberglass roof once and decided not to continue. I don't care if my roof doesn't shine but I do want it clean and don't want it to chalk and put white streaks on the coach.

So, I either get the roof washed when I pay someone to wash the coach or wash the roof myself. I then use the Wash Wax All mop to apply 303 Protectant to the roof. I can stand up and do it and it only takes me about 30" to do the 303 on the roof.

[affreeman]

Originally Posted by smlranger

I tried it on my fiberglass roof once and decided not to continue. I don't care if my roof doesn't shine but I do want it clean and don't want it to chalk and put white streaks on the coach.

So, I either get the roof washed when I pay someone to wash the coach or wash the roof myself. I then use the Wash Wax All mop to apply 303 Protectant to the roof. I can stand up and do it and it only takes me about 30" to do the 303 on the roof.

Why did you decide not to continue?

[smlranger]

Originally Posted by affreeman

Why did you decide not to continue?

Primarily because 303 offers better UV protection and that is what Country Coach recommends for my roof. The Wash Wax All would certainly clean and shine the roof.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by smlranger

Primarily because 303 offers better UV protection and that is what Country Coach recommends for my roof. The Wash Wax All would certainly clean and shine the roof.

That might be a good combination. Wet wash the roof with the red Wash Wax and then use the 303.

I was amazed to see how much built up dirt was removed the first time I used the Wash Wax. I have not been able to do the rig again since I started this thread because of weather and time availability. But, we have had a lot of rain. I just noticed that many of the bugs on the front end cap and windshield seem to have washed off some.

When I did my rig I used the blue product on every surface below the roof line. The glass and mirrors stayed cleaner as I traveled and the wipers did a better job in the rain.

[VerboortTech]

Has anyone compared this RV aircraft waterless cleaning solution to the Mary Poppins solution in this other thread? http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/tiffi...-224427-3.html

What are the pros/cons of each of these solutions?

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by VerboortTech

Has anyone compared this RV aircraft waterless cleaning solution to the Mary Poppins solution in this other thread? http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/tiffi...-224427-3.html

What are the pros/cons of each of these solutions?

Wash Wax All is much more expensive. I like the results of the product but if the Mary Poppins works as well, go for it. The thread you posted is very interesting. The wax salesman is very informative. In any case, work and care are a part of doing a good job, and the correct product needs to be accessed from experience. Good advertising is just that.

I hope we get so folks to respond who have used both. I had never heard of Mary Poppins cleaning products till you posted. I might have tried it first. I got Wash Wax All because I saw it used when at the Winnebago Grand National Rally last year by a guy parked next to me waiting for serves as I was. His coach looked great.

Now we wait...

Rick Y

[smlranger]

I think it is Mary Moppins. IMO, there is nothing terribly unique or different with the Wash Wax All system other than the mop system is easy to use on a large vehicle. The liquid (blue) stuff works well but IMO no better than other waterless products I've used. Years ago I used Dri Wash and then switched to No Wet. Either one of those worked fine as a waterless cleaner/polymer and should work fine with the Wash Wax All mop.

I still have a gallon of No Wet and have used it with my Wash Wax All mop and it works. No Wet is a bit thicker liguid and you have to rub it with the dry side of the mop a bit longer than when using Wash Wax blue liguid.

When my No Wet is gone, I will not get more since I am completely satisfied with the Wash Wax All solution.

[GaryM2]

I was asked to take a look at this thread and comment.

I must say, the original post sure does have the look of a commercial.

When I was a distributor of detail products in a major market, I was approached by just about every manufacturer of cleaning/waxing/etc. products asking that we sell their products. While the average Joe has the luxury of simply voicing an opinion, we were tasked with determining scientifically what worked and what didn't.

When it comes to 'dry' washes, they simply don't work. In fact, they do more harm than good. Relying more on the mechanical aspect of soil removal than the chemical, they invariably leave behind micro scratches in the paint.

To the untrained eye, they may not be noticeable for a while. But under a microscope, they are certainly there. And they're cumulative. Each use adds to the damage. Dry wash products typically have some chemical in them (glaze) that will provide a little shine so the consumer believes he's getting something good.

I've often said that the detail business is overrun with 'smoke and mirrors' sales pitches - not unlike SO many booths at the auto show. Don’t we love it when the guy with the goofy hat sets the lighter fluid on the hood ablaze? At the top of my list would be dry wash products. They appeal to us because they appear to provide results with little effort. I’m sorry Virginia, but there ain’t no Santa Claus and there ain’t no free ride to loveliness.

For those that haven’t read my previous comments, I’ll provide a very brief description of what is really a complex process.

Removing contaminants (dirt, etc.) from the surface of your vehicle requires somehow lifting the offenders without them digging in and scratching the surface on the way out. Using your old t-shirt will push the dirt into the surface and scratch it.

What’s needed is a combination of both chemical and mechanical action. Just the mechanical (t-shirt) will leave scratches and just the chemical (touch free washes) will assault and degrade the surface. A good quality car wash soap, with plenty of water, will be mild enough to not damage the surface yet will help lift contaminants and also provide lubrication so they don’t scratch on the way out. When used with a quality mitt or brush, they offer the least amount of damage to the surface. I know you’d like to hear that it can be done with no damage, but that just isn’t so. It can be done with barely noticeable damage, and that’s the best you can hope for.

Assuming good quality paint, not necessarily the norm in the RV industry, regular washing, occasional polishing, and regular waxing/paint sealing can provide many years of good looking, high gloss surfaces. We all cheat a little from time to time. Just be aware that every time you cheat you leave that surface a little weaker.

[dexters]

Originally Posted by GaryM2

I was asked to take a look at this thread and comment.

I must say, the original post sure does have the look of a commercial.

.

Next you will be telling us there is no Santa Clause.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by GaryM2

I was asked to take a look at this thread and comment.

I must say, the original post sure does have the look of a commercial.

When I was a distributor of detail products in a major market, I was approached by just about every manufacturer of cleaning/waxing/etc. products asking that we sell their products. While the average Joe has the luxury of simply voicing an opinion, we were tasked with determining scientifically what worked and what didn't.

When it comes to 'dry' washes, they simply don't work. In fact, they do more harm than good. Relying more on the mechanical aspect of soil removal than the chemical, they invariably leave behind micro scratches in the paint.

To the untrained eye, they may not be noticeable for a while. But under a microscope, they are certainly there. And they're cumulative. Each use adds to the damage. Dry wash products typically have some chemical in them (glaze) that will provide a little shine so the consumer believes he's getting something good.

I've often said that the detail business is overrun with 'smoke and mirrors' sales pitches - not unlike SO many booths at the auto show. Don’t we love it when the guy with the goofy hat sets the lighter fluid on the hood ablaze? At the top of my list would be dry wash products. They appeal to us because they appear to provide results with little effort. I’m sorry Virginia, but there ain’t no Santa Claus and there ain’t no free ride to loveliness.

For those that haven’t read my previous comments, I’ll provide a very brief description of what is really a complex process.

Removing contaminants (dirt, etc.) from the surface of your vehicle requires somehow lifting the offenders without them digging in and scratching the surface on the way out. Using your old t-shirt will push the dirt into the surface and scratch it.

What’s needed is a combination of both chemical and mechanical action. Just the mechanical (t-shirt) will leave scratches and just the chemical (touch free washes) will assault and degrade the surface. A good quality car wash soap, with plenty of water, will be mild enough to not damage the surface yet will help lift contaminants and also provide lubrication so they don’t scratch on the way out. When used with a quality mitt or brush, they offer the least amount of damage to the surface. I know you’d like to hear that it can be done with no damage, but that just isn’t so. It can be done with barely noticeable damage, and that’s the best you can hope for.

Assuming good quality paint, not necessarily the norm in the RV industry, regular washing, occasional polishing, and regular waxing/paint sealing can provide many years of good looking, high gloss surfaces. We all cheat a little from time to time. Just be aware that every time you cheat you leave that surface a little weaker.

My apologizes to all for making my first post sound soooo commercial sails pitch. I was attempting to be as detailed about my first use of this product as was practical.

I agree with you, Gary, about the micro-scratch problem with dry washing. With the red soap spray, wet washing works very well. I wet washed my car with this stuff and it got off dirt that had been left behind by the previous soaps and waxes I had used. After applying the blue spray on the dry car surface it left a smooth feeling protective film behind. I haven't had a chance to wash the car again since my first post. Really needs it. (The coach too. Wet wash only from now on after a trip.) Lets see how the dirt comes off. I will wet wash. I think the dry wash is more for daily dusting. It is simply too much work and the chance of damaging the paint is great. On a plane or boat it may not be as much of a concern. Our rigs are traveling in the dirtiest of environments.

Thanks for your expert comments Gary.

Happy trails,
Rick Y

[halfprice]

I'm looking at getting the mop and blue cleaner. Do you guys find the premixed or concentrate is better. The mop comes with two pads. Is that enough to do the entire motorhome or are more pads needed. How often do the pads need to be changed and how long do they last.

Sorry for all the questions just don't want to buy a bunch of stuff I don't need.

Thanks Jerry

[smlranger]

Originally Posted by halfprice

I'm looking at getting the mop and blue cleaner. Do you guys find the premixed or concentrate is better. The mop comes with two pads. Is that enough to do the entire motorhome or are more pads needed. How often do the pads need to be changed and how long do they last.

Sorry for all the questions just don't want to buy a bunch of stuff I don't need.

Thanks Jerry

I use four pads to do the entire coach. I've always used the premix so can't comment on using a concentrate.

[halfprice]

Just what i needed to know thanks

Jerry

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by halfprice

I'm looking at getting the mop and blue cleaner. Do you guys find the premixed or concentrate is better. The mop comes with two pads. Is that enough to do the entire motorhome or are more pads needed. How often do the pads need to be changed and how long do they last.

Sorry for all the questions just don't want to buy a bunch of stuff I don't need.

Thanks Jerry

The spray bottle is simply the applicator. The gallon is the same stuff as in the spray bottle. It will not clean heavy dirt. I suggest getting a gallon of blue, a blue spray bottle and a red spray bottle. Get extra pads. Go to the website. There is much good info there.

[halfprice]

Thanks ill probably get the $199 package

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by halfprice

Thanks ill probably get the $199 package

It has a lot with it. Now, if I just could find the time to use it as needed. I might be retired but I have less time available now than when I was paid. Life is too short to sit still.

Happy trails,
Rick Y

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by GaryM2

I was asked to take a look at this thread and comment.

I must say, the original post sure does have the look of a commercial.

When I was a distributor of detail products in a major market, I was approached by just about every manufacturer of cleaning/waxing/etc. products asking that we sell their products. While the average Joe has the luxury of simply voicing an opinion, we were tasked with determining scientifically what worked and what didn't.

When it comes to 'dry' washes, they simply don't work. In fact, they do more harm than good. Relying more on the mechanical aspect of soil removal than the chemical, they invariably leave behind micro scratches in the paint.

To the untrained eye, they may not be noticeable for a while. But under a microscope, they are certainly there. And they're cumulative. Each use adds to the damage. Dry wash products typically have some chemical in them (glaze) that will provide a little shine so the consumer believes he's getting something good.

I've often said that the detail business is overrun with 'smoke and mirrors' sales pitches - not unlike SO many booths at the auto show. Don’t we love it when the guy with the goofy hat sets the lighter fluid on the hood ablaze? At the top of my list would be dry wash products. They appeal to us because they appear to provide results with little effort. I’m sorry Virginia, but there ain’t no Santa Claus and there ain’t no free ride to loveliness.

For those that haven’t read my previous comments, I’ll provide a very brief description of what is really a complex process.

Removing contaminants (dirt, etc.) from the surface of your vehicle requires somehow lifting the offenders without them digging in and scratching the surface on the way out. Using your old t-shirt will push the dirt into the surface and scratch it.

What’s needed is a combination of both chemical and mechanical action. Just the mechanical (t-shirt) will leave scratches and just the chemical (touch free washes) will assault and degrade the surface. A good quality car wash soap, with plenty of water, will be mild enough to not damage the surface yet will help lift contaminants and also provide lubrication so they don’t scratch on the way out. When used with a quality mitt or brush, they offer the least amount of damage to the surface. I know you’d like to hear that it can be done with no damage, but that just isn’t so. It can be done with barely noticeable damage, and that’s the best you can hope for.

Assuming good quality paint, not necessarily the norm in the RV industry, regular washing, occasional polishing, and regular waxing/paint sealing can provide many years of good looking, high gloss surfaces. We all cheat a little from time to time. Just be aware that every time you cheat you leave that surface a little weaker.

Well Gary,
I'm gonna have to agree with you on this. Being involved with the fire service for well over 35 years, we too had been approached by many, many companies wanting us to try all sorts of products, INCLUDING many DRY WASH styles. Well, as some of you may know, a fire truck kind-a lives in a pretty harsh environment. And, while they do use very high quality paints, dirt is DIRT. And, to simply grind it into the paint, wasn't going to happen.

So, long story short, out came the SOAP and Water, plenty of both. Then, based on the fact that we were all slave labor, out came the WAX. Lots of labor and lots product(s), is what kept and keeps them looking as nice as they do, for as long as they are in existence which, is a limited life span anyways.

But, as much as I, just like any humanoid that owns an RV, would like to get away with the least amount of effort to get a task like washing an RV done, I just can't bring myself to grinding in ANY amount of dirt into the paint that I work tirelessly on keeping nice. If the folks that are using the products mentioned in this thread are happy and content with the results, then by all means, keep up what makes you happy, it's your coach.

In the end, for me (the wife and I), we use the Costco CR Di-ionizing car wash system. Wet, with any water, wash with soap and water, rinse with that system and, WALK AWAY. Don't even touch it with a rag, shamois, micro-fiber towel, NOTHING. Not one water spot will appear.

Now, of course this is all done at home, not on the road. So, while on the road, we go to plan B which, is explained above. Good luck.
Scott

[GaryM2]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Well Gary,
I'm gonna have to agree with you on this. Being involved with the fire service for well over 35 years, we too had been approached by many, many companies wanting us to try all sorts of products, INCLUDING many DRY WASH styles. Well, as some of you may know, a fire truck kind-a lives in a pretty harsh environment. And, while they do use very high quality paints, dirt is DIRT. And, to simply grind it into the paint, wasn't going to happen.

Scott,

I sold products to several fire departments and was always impressed by how conscientious firemen were. They take a lot of pride in how their equipment looks and works. It was not unusual to see a fire truck with a lot of years on it that still looked brand new. They were also concerned about the environmental impact of anything they needed.

By the time I got done with the educating, demonstrating, and answering questions, I often thought I’d have been better off getting paid for my time and giving them the product!! But their sincerity came through and made it all worthwhile.

I wouldn’t hesitate to buy used equipment from a fireman. They may be the Wikipedia definition of ‘anal’.

[legolas]

Originally Posted by GaryM2

I was asked to take a look at this thread and comment.

I must say, the original post sure does have the look of a commercial.

When I was a distributor of detail products in a major market, I was approached by just about every manufacturer of cleaning/waxing/etc. products asking that we sell their products. While the average Joe has the luxury of simply voicing an opinion, we were tasked with determining scientifically what worked and what didn't.

When it comes to 'dry' washes, they simply don't work. In fact, they do more harm than good. Relying more on the mechanical aspect of soil removal than the chemical, they invariably leave behind micro scratches in the paint.

To the untrained eye, they may not be noticeable for a while. But under a microscope, they are certainly there. And they're cumulative. Each use adds to the damage. Dry wash products typically have some chemical in them (glaze) that will provide a little shine so the consumer believes he's getting something good.

I've often said that the detail business is overrun with 'smoke and mirrors' sales pitches - not unlike SO many booths at the auto show. Don’t we love it when the guy with the goofy hat sets the lighter fluid on the hood ablaze? At the top of my list would be dry wash products. They appeal to us because they appear to provide results with little effort. I’m sorry Virginia, but there ain’t no Santa Claus and there ain’t no free ride to loveliness.

For those that haven’t read my previous comments, I’ll provide a very brief description of what is really a complex process.

Removing contaminants (dirt, etc.) from the surface of your vehicle requires somehow lifting the offenders without them digging in and scratching the surface on the way out. Using your old t-shirt will push the dirt into the surface and scratch it.

What’s needed is a combination of both chemical and mechanical action. Just the mechanical (t-shirt) will leave scratches and just the chemical (touch free washes) will assault and degrade the surface. A good quality car wash soap, with plenty of water, will be mild enough to not damage the surface yet will help lift contaminants and also provide lubrication so they don’t scratch on the way out. When used with a quality mitt or brush, they offer the least amount of damage to the surface. I know you’d like to hear that it can be done with no damage, but that just isn’t so. It can be done with barely noticeable damage, and that’s the best you can hope for.

Assuming good quality paint, not necessarily the norm in the RV industry, regular washing, occasional polishing, and regular waxing/paint sealing can provide many years of good looking, high gloss surfaces. We all cheat a little from time to time. Just be aware that every time you cheat you leave that surface a little weaker.

Gary , I tend to agree with you about the best process....what I need to know has wit a "paint sealer" can you expand on that and tell me where I can get such a product.