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Old 03-21-2012, 09:42 PM   #1
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Rust in windshield channel

Reading other posts about windshield channel rust, I have a question for others who have experienced this.

I have a 2004 Meridian 36G that had to have the passenger side windshield replaced by Forest City 3-4 years ago and the channel had enough rust in it I was charged extra to clean that up.
My question is, and should have asked long ago, what do I do to keep it from happening again and also to prevent more rust in the driver's side windshield channel when (and I'm sure it will happen) it needs to be replaced?

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Old 03-21-2012, 09:50 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagonmaster2 View Post
Reading other posts about windshield channel rust, I have a question for others who have experienced this.

I have a 2004 Meridian 36G that had to have the passenger side windshield replaced by Forest City 3-4 years ago and the channel had enough rust in it I was charged extra to clean that up.
My question is, and should have asked long ago, what do I do to keep it from happening again and also to prevent more rust in the driver's side windshield channel when (and I'm sure it will happen) it needs to be replaced?

Wagonmaster2
I'm not expert and am certainly on a learning curve on the subject, but in the thread that I have running on this subject, what I've read so far in three or four different forums is that the 'repair' is only a repair, and doesn't actually solve the problem long-term. I found a couple of posts that people claim they have had the repairs done more than once over a 4-6 year cycle. That concerns me, as who wants to spend up to almost $4k every 5, 6 or 7 years? -RT
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:53 AM   #3
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I had mine repaired in 2007 when I had a leak at the top of the passenger side. That was the only rust on both frames, and obviously from a leaking clearance lamp. The frame was cleaned up and entire frame primed and painted before new glass was installed. After they were finished, I fingered a fine line of caulk along both sides of the rubber molding where it contacts the glass and the fiberglass. I removed and left off the plastic trim across the top ...the dealership did a really sorry job of reinstalling it as they lost/left out most of the screws and it rattled. I removed it entirely as that area is hidden from normal view, and without it in place it is much easier to inspect the top glass seal from inside. I inspect the clearance lamps every six months, and repair sealant as needed. So far, so good.
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:20 AM   #4
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When I had my passenger windshield replaced last year, my local shop used some sort of rust preventative (similar to POR15) that he uses when he is doing classic car restorations. He said I should not have more problems. However, considering the amount of rust I had on that side, it is only a matter of time before the driver's side breaks the glass.
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Old 03-22-2012, 04:31 PM   #5
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Wonder if Winnebago is the only manufacturer having this problem? Don't remember reading any other particular coach with rust around the windshield.

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Old 03-22-2012, 04:40 PM   #6
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Wonder if Winnebago is the only manufacturer having this problem?
Most others don't have a metal frame around the cab ...the glass is "held in" the opening in the fiberglass only by the rubber molding, and many have problems with the glass popping out while leveling or even while driving due to the body twisting. I'll take the Winnebago with the possible rust problem...
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:07 PM   #7
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Never again will I. I have an old 1980 Alegro sitting in my yard and the windshield is as solid as when it was new. I have had numerous motor homes over the years and have never been as disappointed in a company as I am now.
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:04 PM   #8
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It seems the Winnebago's have a design problem that allows water to sit in the area (trough) above the windshield that will eventually rust the steel pinchweld area around the windshield.

There are a few things you can do, get the rubber trim off the top of the windshields and remove the piece that holds the rubber trim in and check where you can for rust. Clean the area as best you can and treat the metal with something like rusty metal primer. Once you are satisfied you have "arrested" the rust put the trim piece back in with 3M doublestick outdoor tape.

Next using 3M 191 moisture resistant and UV resistant 1 1/2" black tape, seal across both windshield rubber trim strips at the top. (Scotch® Colored Plastic Tape - Catalog No. 191 1-1/2 inch x 125 inch. Super thin, waterproof vinyl plastic tape). This tape is available at Ace Hardware stores, and is also available in white and other colors.
3M 191BK "Scotch" Color Plastic Tape 1.5'' X 125'' - Black


The next thing you want to do is to always park your vehicle so the front is elevated above the rear forcing water to run to the rear of the unit.

This will keep take care of most of the problems people are experiencing with there leaks, and when you have your windshield replaced due to rust, do the same thing again with the 3M 191 tape at the top. I have had no leaks over the past year and I still have a whole probably the size of a quarter on one side that only has the black windshield urethane sealing it up, the key is the 3M tape and the way you're parking your vehicle.

This seems to be a good and inexpensive way around WB's design flaws.
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:47 AM   #9
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I just had a new passenger side windshield installed yesterday. I have been pretty uneasy after reading all the horror stories about windshield rust. I was pleasantly surprised when the installers removed the old one. There was no rust perforation and only surface rust on the two tabs at the bottom which were used for supporting the windshield during installs. The installers used a mini grinder to clean the tabs up and then primed the entire frame with a rust inhibitor. This is a 13 year old Chieftain which spent 6 years in Florida, 6 years in Rhode Island and now here in Nova Scotia, Canada.
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Old 03-24-2012, 03:59 PM   #10
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Angry trying to seal a windshield leak

I am working on a windshield leak for a few hours. The installers cut the channel to make it curve around the unit. (Winebago 35 L,08 full one piece winshield) I am trying to do this like a dentist neat, just plug the few 1/4 inch slits. It is tough, may not work, and I might have to be more sloppy and caulk under the trim molding or use tape across the molding. Any other ideas let me know. I know there must be rust underneath.
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