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Old 07-22-2011, 09:00 PM   #21
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Winnebago Service Center Parts department sold me the Stone & Mason Sealant. I thought it was to darn expensive at $18 a tube. I used 3/4 tube on the trim ridge at bottom slide height. Cleaned according to technicians recommendation using Lacquer Thinner. No ill affects.
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Old 07-23-2011, 02:57 PM   #22
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I have worked in the meraine industry. on boats resin/fiberglass; when i resealedthe roof on our vectra and the ultimate i went to the boat shop and asked them for the best they have.
I told them of the application they gave me the good stuff;;; If it's good enough for my boat it's good enough for my motorhome;;; boat yard sir.
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:13 AM   #23
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My gutter to roof seams need recaulking but I seem to have run into a little problem. The coach has a passenger side slide out that required the patio awning to be installed above the gutter. There is no way to get a caulking gun , or probably even a tube, between the awning rail and the seam. Other than taking the awning down, and that isn't going to happen, I see no choice but to use Eternabond there and, I guess if I'm going to use it for half of one side, I might as well do the whole thing. Looks as if grey would match up pretty well.
Anyone else done a seam, with the awning above, that might have a pointer or two?
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:21 AM   #24
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Regarding 3M 5200 adhesive/caulk, it is "permanent" and extremely difficult (read near impossible) to remove. I have used it on the cap/roof seam of my previous class C and it did an excellent job. It is much stronger than anything Winnebago uses. It is really a marine sealent - one of the very extensive 3M line which includes sealents that are easier to remove. I would never use it on the fiberglass roof seam as if it ever had to be removed, the fiberglass roof radius would come with it.
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:27 PM   #25
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The last time that I caulked my roof, I used 5200. Granted, this about three years ago but it had come undone and part of my roof was starting to lift. This truly got my full attention.

Just finished eternabond.
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:49 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post

So, if you are an innocent owner who asks one of the shops to re-seal your roof seams, just what kind of a job do you get?

.
A very bad one: We had the MH at the dealer for some service and they did a "free" roof inspection. They called and said the side seams needed to be caulked. I gave them the go ahead. Two months later we had the MH back at the dealer for the frig recall. They called and said we had a water leak inside up front. They re-caulked the front cap. (Apparently the cap seals are not part of the roof inspection!) Anyway, after a down pour on our way back from Florida and water coming in on me while driving, we took it to the factory. It two techs over 4 hours to remove the crap the dealer used. The tech said he never saw such a poor caulk job and they could not ID the material used but it wasn't even close to factory specs.
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:48 PM   #27
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Quote:
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I ended up with a 3M adhesive that I found in my local ACE hardware store, and have also seen it in a NAPA store. As far as I know, there is a slow cure (7-day, the factory uses) and the fast cure (24 hours) that I used. It is fairly thick, and when cured is very tough. Sort of like the rubber you would have on a tennis shoe sole.

3M™ Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200, you can find the specs on the 3M web site.
3M5200 is great stuff. However, it is not recommended for our roof seams due to it not being UV resistant. Check out Kop-R-Plastic, or PL400 Polyurethane door and window sealant as they are.
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Old 08-22-2011, 06:48 AM   #28
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I posted this on another thread, but here is what I found out looking into the best sealer from Winnebago.

Winnebago recommended a product called Kop-r-lastic from the Canadian based company Henry. Kop-R-Lastic is not sold in the US, so I contacted Henry.

They recommended the US version of this product called HE212. You can buy it at Home Depot in clear for about 9 bucks a tube. Data sheet attached for reference.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf HE212_techdata.pdf (45.7 KB, 300 views)
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:16 PM   #29
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Thank you for the information. I have been looking for it under the old name of Mason and could not find it. This is wonderful news. Thanks.
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:46 PM   #30
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To the question of why use Dicor if Eternbond is so good.

Different tools for different jobs Eternabond comes in both long rolls and in square patches. Now, for patching a hole it's great, and for seams it's great. but where the metal meets the rubber (IE: Where the antenna sticks up) Dicor is a touch easier to apply.
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Old 08-25-2011, 02:24 PM   #31
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Is Dicor the alternate for the "flowing stuff" used along the seam between the roof and the front cap (all along the top of the motorhome)? The stuff on the antenna sticks up looks foamy but the area on the seam looks more smooth?? Or, it that the same as the Henry 212?
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:24 PM   #32
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Quote:
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Is Dicor the alternate for the "flowing stuff" used along the seam between the roof and the front cap (all along the top of the motorhome)? The stuff on the antenna sticks up looks foamy but the area on the seam looks more smooth?? Or, it that the same as the Henry 212?
Well the sealant chart show type d for the front cap which for my coach translates to Manus Bond 75-AM however when I had it redone at the factory the tech used the type D and then covered it with type B self leveling. Nuflex 311
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:14 AM   #33
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The Henry products mentioned are for the gutter seams. The stuff for the cap seams is different and as pointed out a self leveling type of material.
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Old 08-26-2011, 05:36 PM   #34
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Sealant/Caulk recommended

The only one recommended for fiberglass and not rubber is "Sikoflex" Use on end caps and gutters
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:13 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swreeder70 View Post
The Henry products mentioned are for the gutter seams. The stuff for the cap seams is different and as pointed out a self leveling type of material.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lwasouth View Post
The only one recommended for fiberglass and not rubber is "Sikoflex" Use on end caps and gutters
My curiocity is getting the best of me.
How come you don't want to use Eternabond ??
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Old 08-27-2011, 09:31 AM   #36
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So just an update for all looking to do this. I spent about two+ hours working on the gutter seams yesterday.

One side of the coach 90% of the sealant had failed and I could flex the fiberglass in to create a gap. I removed it all with a surgical scalpel with removable blades (Havalon Piranta is the name of the knife). It was tedious work. After removal, cleaned with mineral spirits and laid down a new bead with the Henry 212. This material has the consistency of hot glue and skins over quickly. This part was easy.

Other side of the coach only 25% was bad. The 75% that was intact was nearly impossible to remove. So I removed all the bad areas, and followed the same procedure as the other side.

Will let this set for two days then seal with eternabond over the seam.
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:04 AM   #37
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So, just so I understand the process.
As at least an annual process, you scrape out all the old failed caulking, which serves both as a seal, and a structural component.
You use a great caulking compound which should last, but since it is an annual requirement, there must be some stress on the caulking for it to fail in a short time, thus the requirement to keep inspecting and touching up the failed areas.
After you are done, you want to put eternabond tape over the seam. This should do a great job of sealing from leaks, but is it going to keep the joint structurally sound?
Just wondering? How are you going to tell when the caulking has failed structurally again when it is covered with the eternabond tape?
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Old 08-28-2011, 02:06 PM   #38
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So, just so I understand the process.
As at least an annual process, you scrape out all the old failed caulking, which serves both as a seal, and a structural component.
You use a great caulking compound which should last, but since it is an annual requirement, there must be some stress on the caulking for it to fail in a short time, thus the requirement to keep inspecting and touching up the failed areas.
After you are done, you want to put eternabond tape over the seam. This should do a great job of sealing from leaks, but is it going to keep the joint structurally sound?
Just wondering? How are you going to tell when the caulking has failed structurally again when it is covered with the eternabond tape?

My understanding is that this is a structural issue more than a leak issue and think that makes sense looking at the diagram attached.

Now the thought process is to 1. Get a good structural setup by resealing all the seams and eliminating the potential for any water intrusion type problems. (so get it back to factory condition). 2. Seal with eternabond. This provides three things. One, it does add structure support, if you have used this stuff it is strong and does not give. Two it blocks UV from deterioration the gutter sealing that is in factory condition which is what makes this joint fail. Three it provides an additional water barrier even though again I do not think this is as big of an issue with the Winnebago style.

Once this is done it provides a seam and seal that should require little to no maintenance for many years to come.

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Old 08-28-2011, 02:58 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Journey39n View Post
So, just so I understand the process.
As at least an annual process, you scrape out all the old failed caulking, which serves both as a seal, and a structural component.
You use a great caulking compound which should last, but since it is an annual requirement, there must be some stress on the caulking for it to fail in a short time, thus the requirement to keep inspecting and touching up the failed areas.
After you are done, you want to put eternabond tape over the seam. This should do a great job of sealing from leaks, but is it going to keep the joint structurally sound?
Just wondering? How are you going to tell when the caulking has failed structurally again when it is covered with the eternabond tape?
I find how long it lasts is directly related to how much you walk on the roof!
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:15 PM   #40
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With all the problems I read on the RV forums about the Winnebago roof seams I guess maybe Winnebago doesn't know what sealant to use either or they sure would use something that lasts longer than 6 months. Our brand new Winnie was driven 750 miles from the factory to the dealer and the seam on one side had about 20% length open and about 10% on the other side open. I didn't let the dealer touch it. I applied new caulk to Winnie specs, drove the unit just under 1000 miles and found the seam open again in places. I applied Eternabond and after 30K miles the Eternabond is still holding and there are no tears or splits in the Eterabond so there is no way for water to get in. It may not last forever as not to many things do. But it lasted me 7 years before I sold it and bought a new one. Less than 2500 miles on the brand new one and yup the same old seam problem, Winnie hasn't found the right product yet. I have touched the seam up twice and next time I'll apply Eternabond. Again it may not last forever but I bet it out lasts me this time around.
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