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Old 05-14-2005, 06:36 PM   #1
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We bought out 1999 Itasca Suncruiser in Dec of 2004 and picked it up in January of 2005. After reading of the problems with the roof edge seal I checked and the entire length was loose. So I cleaned it and applied 3M 4200 hoping to get a good seal with some flexibility. Wrong, after a 600 mile trip I just got around to checking the roof seal and it was all loose again. So now I am in the process if appling eternabond tape and hope that this will finally fix it. Aparently 3M 4200 does not like the metal channel because it stuck good to the fiberglass but broke away from the metal channel.
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Old 05-14-2005, 06:36 PM   #2
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We bought out 1999 Itasca Suncruiser in Dec of 2004 and picked it up in January of 2005. After reading of the problems with the roof edge seal I checked and the entire length was loose. So I cleaned it and applied 3M 4200 hoping to get a good seal with some flexibility. Wrong, after a 600 mile trip I just got around to checking the roof seal and it was all loose again. So now I am in the process if appling eternabond tape and hope that this will finally fix it. Aparently 3M 4200 does not like the metal channel because it stuck good to the fiberglass but broke away from the metal channel.
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Old 05-14-2005, 07:00 PM   #3
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It is amazing that the last two posts relate to this "roof problem." I had just posted my "to sell or not to sell" when I read your post. I have had the last two seals done by my dealer. They check it every year and reseal when necessary. I have had no problems with their work. It just doesn't last more than an year +. It is just what happened to you that makes me have the people in the know do.
Eterna bond is something I would consider and if it worked well I would keep our 01, because we really like it. My problem with Eterna bond, and no one has addressed this, is the high profile that it becomes after it is aplied. We live in a wet climite and the extra edge that Eterna bond would have would create a water flow problem and algae would begin to grow in the upward edge. I have enough algae as it is without creating more. Thank heavens for tooth brushes. Good luck on your solution.
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Old 05-15-2005, 04:07 AM   #4
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My exact same problem after only a few hundred miles it was coming loose again in places after caulking. Many folks don't know they have to press on the roof at the seam to tell if the bond is broken. For me the only way to fix the problem is with Eternabond. Again prep is the key to good bond. The poster thinking the extra edge might be a place for algae growth. I suppose to a point if you live in a very wet or humid area you most likely will get a little algae along the tape to roof edge. But my thinking is if you have that much problem with algae you must have to wash the roof frequently anyway. Like any thing if you clean it before it gets out of hand it's easier to clean. I use a car wash and wax on the roof and it cleans up very easy each time. I clean the roof about twice a year. Yours you might do monthly if you have that much algae problem. It only takes about 20 minutes to give the roof a good scrubbing. I believe you will find the 20 minutes spend cleaning is better than the time needed to clean off old caulk and redo.
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Old 05-15-2005, 05:00 AM   #5
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The "problem" with 3M 4200 not holding is that the roof and J-channel have to be meticulously clean and free of any wax or trace of silicone. This will require a lot more effore than just washing or wiping with a damp rag. If this isn't done, 4200, 5200, or Manis-Bond (the stuff originally used and very much like 4200), will not adhere.
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Old 05-15-2005, 06:37 AM   #6
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That's just great, I just did my roof seam with the stuff they sell at camping world just for roofs. I cleaned the seam after scraping out the old caulk with brake clean. The dealer did this just 18 monthsa ago and the whole seal failed. I don't mind paying the 500.00 or so to do the job but I think that I can do a much better job for about 40.00 and a couple of hours time. We'll see, time will tell.
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Old 05-15-2005, 12:46 PM   #7
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Well got the etherbond on, so lets hope it is everything it is supposed to be. It took about 3 hours with cleaning with acetone and sticking it on. I did waste about 3 feet initially till I figured out how to do it, duh. One question what is the best way to get the glue off that oozes out in places? I do not want to mess it up by using something that wull disolve the tape.
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Old 05-15-2005, 01:41 PM   #8
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I don't understand what oozed out, there is no excess adhesive on the tape to make a mess. Just clean the surface, let it dry, apply the Eterabond and roll with a small roller as you go. Only way to get any mess is if you try moving the tape once it touches. Fill me in on this one.
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Old 05-15-2005, 05:27 PM   #9
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The edge of the tape has excess adhesive that pulled out as I was unrolling the tape. When I smoothed it down some of it got on the fiberglass nad made black sticky spots. I would like to know how to remove them. Thanks for any info.
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Old 05-16-2005, 02:40 AM   #10
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Maybe I've been lucky, but have not had the same problem. Sounds like you might have installed the tape when it was very warm. I would think maybe acetone might cut the adhesive, but I really don't know. I suggest you call Eternabond at 1-888-336-2663 and ask them. Please post there suggested clean up.
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Old 05-16-2005, 05:19 AM   #11
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I called eternabond and they said that acetone would be good for removing the excess adhesive. I think it started when I cut the tape in two. Some of the adhesive pulled out as I cut it and then when I applied it and pushed it down the adhesive spread onto the fiberglass.

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Old 05-16-2005, 12:24 PM   #12
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Thanks for the update from Eternabond. I understand how cutting it and having it get a little messy could happen. Good luck on the cleanup and I'm thinking when you done you'll be very happy. Especially in years to come and not have to caulk again.
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Old 05-16-2005, 02:41 PM   #13
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Does Winne have anything to say about using Eternabond? I think they should recomend alternatives to the constant seam maintance. It would be nice to hear from them, but you won't!
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Old 05-17-2005, 01:46 PM   #14
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The seam is a money maker for the Winne dealers and an easy way to get out of roof warranty issues. There not going to tell you a cure all for the seam problem. I have talked to roofers that have used the stuff for several years. It's great stuff. You have to do what you think is right not wait for Winne to tell you.
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Old 05-17-2005, 03:56 PM   #15
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When I was at the factory a couple of years ago, the technician did the complementary inspection of the roof seams and found a small (18 inches or so) area above the driver's window. He said it needed to be inspected every six months. I asked him about re-caulking since we were there at the factory any way. He said they could do it in about 4 or 4.5 hours at (I believe) $70 per hour. He suggested that I could do it myself and save a pile of money. I bought the caulk there and then left it in the coach of about a year and a half before I finally put it on. Only then I had discovered EB and after caulking I put the EB in place for double protection. I paid too much for this thing to have it spoiled with a leak.
Got to make sure the surface is super clean before application. I used Windex and a towel and a lot of elbow grease.
Got to make sure it is where you want it to before you pull off the backing. The stuff seals very tightly.
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Old 05-18-2005, 10:17 AM   #16
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I hate to beat a dead horse with this roof thing, but in talking with my dealer/RV maintance people, they said that the roof has to flex. The caulking alows the roof to do that. EB does not. It gets rigid over time and reduces the flexing that needs to go on. Any opinion on this?
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:46 AM   #17
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I do not know how it will last over many years but as I put it on it is extremely flebible. When I talked to EB about the cleanup they said the outer layer is a rubber compound. I messed up the first 3 ft putting it on and I can attest to the fact it is flexible. I pulled off the tape and it streached three times its length but did not break. How, again this will be years from now I do not know.

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Old 05-18-2005, 04:51 PM   #18
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EB doesn't stiffen up it stays flexible & would let the roof move as much as is needed, ours has been on for 2-3 years (not exactly sure of the date but I think it was about 3 years ago). Sounds like the techs don't want to lose a gravy job.
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Old 05-18-2005, 06:53 PM   #19
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I just sealed a section of my roof gutter channel area again, I used Phenoseal White Vinyl Adhesive Caulk, Bonds, Calks, Seals, good for gutters, Boat Seams, cracks leaks.

I have also used White Bath & Kitchen Silicone II and that works well also. I was told that Silicone caulk of any kind will work. I check the gutter roof area several times a year, I also had this problem on my 97 Adventurer , this one I now have is a 2002 Adventurer 35U.

Any comments appreciated.

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Old 05-19-2005, 05:28 AM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by no18yes:
I hate to beat a dead horse with this roof thing, but in talking with my dealer/RV maintance people, they said that the roof has to flex. The caulking alows the roof to do that. EB does not. It gets rigid over time and reduces the flexing that needs to go on. Any opinion on this? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have to say as well that I think your dealer is trying to preserve his revenue. There is no doubt that most dealers hate EB because it cuts into their revenue considerably.

I think this bit about EB not flexing might demonstrate a lack of knowlege or.......
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