Padnah: I'm afraid I can't follow your last post. That's probably because I only know what my RV lock is like inside?
If your cam lock fell out, are you also saying you were able to open door or did you get locked out?
===> The following is a duplicate post for other people who may have encountered key related problems with their Trimark 030-900 lock.
Messing with the key was my very first indication I had a problem with my lock. However, it wasn't the key.
This situation occurred on a cold morning and I got locked outside. I ASSUMED it was a key or Cam Lock problem; and so sprayed WD in the key hole; banged on the door; and then repeated the sequence while I was trying to figure out what to do about this situation?
Finally I got the door to open; for several weeks the door unlocked and locked fine. So I paid no further attention to it.
Then I put my RV in storage and over the next few months I started getting very familiar with the Trimark 030-900 lock.
IMO, this lock is actually a very good lock, but you will never know what to do (how to adjust it) unless you read about it in a forum.
EVERYONE NEEDS TO KNOW HOW TO ADJUST THEIR TRIMARK LOCK BEFORE YOU REGRET THE OUTCOME, BECAUSE YOU DID NOT RECOGNIZE THE SYMPTOMS BEFORE YOU HAVE A MAJOR PROBLEM!
Anyway, I am replying to suggest you follow these steps, to adjust your Trimark Lock, because it's usually not the key or the cam lock that is the problem.
When my door handle started "flapping" and not working, I got around to disassembling the lock.
The problem was that little tab got bent up over time and it was mostly working right, but not all the time.
The solution was to bend the tab back in place, which I did 4 years ago and I have not had a problem since.
As for the "key trick" I think, and I'm not sure about this, but I think the cam-lock will not properly release if the lock is really out of adjustment.
So before you get locked out, or locked in, I hope you learn how to adjust your lock... and do it soon if you have a lot of "travel" in the door handle when opening it.
Note: Disassembling the lock face is not required to adjust the actuator nut located on the end of your door, behind a black plastic tab that is glued on to cover the hole. (See picture.)
For more information you can click on this IRV2 link:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/tri...le-479375.html
====
Here's another thread that may help you as well:
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...re-330834.html
And this one if you want to fix your automatic door lock and keyless entry (FOB):
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/scs...ls-451241.html
=== DOOR ACTUATOR FIX ==
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...rk-358744.html
*Last month I had to replace my Keyless Entry System (KES) door actuator.
Note: When you find you door locking behind you, this is an indication your door actuator motor is getting old and will one day fail.
* The door actuator has a metal arm that connects to the bottom of the Trimark Lock cam, and when the actuator motor gets weak it can't keep that 1" metal rod in the "unlocked" position after you shut your door.
NOTE: If your coach did not come with and SCS-Frigette KES then may not have an actuator installed. And I think other people has said they have a spring that performs the same function.
* In any event, if your find your door locking behind you... to fix it you just remove the door skin... and follow the instructions in the link above.
Linear Mode
