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Old 07-25-2008, 04:34 PM   #1
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I just noticed today that one side of the rear engine hood had broken the adhesive loose from the metal frame. I remember reading a post a while back about the best adhesive to use when reattaching the fiber glass hood to the metal frame work but I don't remember what they used and I can't find the posting. Any help or suggestions? Since the whole hood isn't loose it looks like something from a tube with a nozzel on it would probably be the easiest way to get some adhesive between the two pieces.
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Old 07-25-2008, 04:34 PM   #2
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I just noticed today that one side of the rear engine hood had broken the adhesive loose from the metal frame. I remember reading a post a while back about the best adhesive to use when reattaching the fiber glass hood to the metal frame work but I don't remember what they used and I can't find the posting. Any help or suggestions? Since the whole hood isn't loose it looks like something from a tube with a nozzel on it would probably be the easiest way to get some adhesive between the two pieces.
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:35 PM   #3
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I've read where some folks have used JB Weld to make the repair. However, I also have read where it is imperative to clean the metal piece well to get an effective repair.
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:52 PM   #4
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I just had the same porblem occur on my 05 Vectra. There were previous posts regarding this issue. You may want to do a search to find it.
I spoke with Winnebago customer service and was advised that they coun't provide the adhesive they use since it requires a special dispensing gun.
I will dicuss mechanical fasteners with my repair shop. I had the sides of my front cap break loose after 9 months and Winnebago attached fastners in additon to adhesive when I was in Forest City two years ago. No problems since.
Did you have any paint damage, I did.
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Old 07-25-2008, 06:48 PM   #5
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No paint damage. Just noticed that when I opened and closed the hood that the fiber glass part moved seperate from the metal part along the one side.
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Old 07-25-2008, 07:02 PM   #6
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I had the same problem with my Journey. When I spoke with Winnie service I was told to make sure to remove the paint from both surfaces then use a good construction adhesive to reattach. I had work done at Winnie service before GNR and was going to have them repair it with what they use but they could not get my fix apart. I will keep an eye on it but feel like it is going to hold.
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Old 07-25-2008, 07:30 PM   #7
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Wagonmaster: The factory expoy on the front hood and rear hood of my '04 gave way in '05. The expoy was repaced by Winnebago and it held for about 1 year.

The solution for the rear is buying small sized/fine thread (1.75 inch) stainless bolts with lock nuts. You will also need to measure the gap between the frame and sides of the fiberglass and fill this gap with washers or spacers before you secure the frame to the fiberglass with the bolts.

I drilled the holes from the side of the rear hood into the frame and installed 2 screws per side and 2 from the top of the hood. You CAN NOT see these small stainless bolts on the rear skin of the hood you can see them when you open the hood.

I used the same stainless bolts to secure the front hood hinges to the inside lip of the front cap. This project was so easy and full-proof that I fixed several hoods at a CAL WIT Rally.

Easy bolt-on project, don't trust the expoy or re-epoxy.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:22 PM   #8
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Thanks Gary, that sounds like a much more permanent fix and one the Winnebago should have done in the first place instead of gluing everything together.
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Old 07-25-2008, 09:46 PM   #9
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Gary CA, thanks for sharing the fixes for your hoods. My 04 Horizon has the same glued hinges but one side of mine has come unglued from the rear cap. Still tight to the hood itself. Have you had any problems with your hood frame where it's glued to the cap? If so, how did you fix it?

Olive, what was the construction adhesive you used?

Thanks
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Old 07-26-2008, 01:24 PM   #10
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James, the adhesive I used was PL Premium Construction Adhesive from Home Depot. It claims it will last longer than the surface it is bonding. Winnie service said to make sure it was a good construction adhesive. It has only been a couple of months but it seems to be holding quite well. I had read the epoxy wasn't holding up. Some have also tried J-B Weld with mixed results.

I ground off the paint on the two pieces where they would bond together, applied the adhesive and clamped it until I was sure it was set. It didn't take all that long. I didn't remove the door.

I hope whatever method you use works well for you.
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:47 PM   #11
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I re-epoxied mine about two months ago, not enough time or miles to know the outcome. I completely removed the rear engine cover and separated the parts, ground the paint from the metal surfaces and attached with aluminum angles all around the framing to maintain the same location of original attachment.
I think if I had to do it all over I would use Gary CA's fix. It sounds much easier. I also had the bonding release from the bracket/rear cap interface so don't know if I want screws there to be seen but what the heck; as long as it keeps all the parts together and not on the highway, it's all good.
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Old 07-26-2008, 07:16 PM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Olive </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks, I'm going to try the PL Adhesive. I bought some J-B weld but was hesitant to use it. Just doesn't seem gloppy enough. Don't want to put a screw through the read cap unless I have to. Afraid stress cracks would develop due to the vibration and then would have to start using bigger headed bolts.
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Old 07-26-2008, 07:50 PM   #13
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I had the same problem, and I fixed it with 3M 5200, quick cure. WOW! This stuff is amazing!
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Old 07-27-2008, 05:57 AM   #14
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We had the same problem with our 03 Advantage rear hood. I took it completely off, cleaned all the contact points, making sure there was sufficient roughness to make good contact and re-glued with a good construction adhesive - and clamped until dry. I don't remember what it was now. That was about a year ago after Winnebago had repaired it once at the plant.

Seems to be holding well with no problems. Like others, I'm reluctant to use metal fastners through the fiberglass being concerned about vibration damage causing stress cracks.

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Old 07-27-2008, 06:03 PM   #15
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Well, I went out and re-glued the rear hood and the lower part of the the front cap today. I used PL Adhesive and found it easy to work with. Its slowly drying now I hope. It does foam up some but not like gorilla glue. I let you know when I un-clamp and put some pressure on the joints. The lower right side of the front cap came unglued and has sprung out about an inch. Hope the new glue holds when I pull it back.
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Old 07-27-2008, 08:04 PM   #16
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James: The rear hood hinges on my coach are actually bolted to a larger metal frame that is secured nicely. Good luck with your fixes.
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Old 07-27-2008, 10:28 PM   #17
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Form those of us anxiously waiting for this to pop up (pun intended), are there pictures of these various fixes?
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:40 AM   #18
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Gary CA </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
My rear hood is also secured to a metal frame bolted to the hinges. In my case, these are then bolted to a support which holds all that to the rear cap. The support on each side is glued at two points to the cap. Its hard to see the glue points which are both horizontal and vertical and under the bottom lip on each side of hood opening. I removed two bolts holding three parts together (hinge,frame and support) to remove the support. I only had to re-glue one side as the other side was still stuck hard and fast and only need to remove that side.
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:42 AM   #19
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Regarding the glue method of construction:

I too have been the victim of loose glue joints. The first I knew of it was when someone at a fuel stop asked me if I knew if my headlight had sunk down behind its "socket". I fixed that with stainless steel bolts (ignore the appearance, fix the problem) and proceeded to look for other areas of loose glue joints, and found some on the rear apron. I bolted them back together and did some "preventive" repairs on other likely places where the glue joints would likely separate. BUT, I did find a place where the glue technique possibly prevented a greater amount of damage.

While backing into a camping spot in Yuma, AZ this past winter, and with the helpful "assistance" of fellow campers, I backed into a rather tight squeeze between the patio pad and the electric pedestal. Too tight! The right rear apron, just aft of the grill for the transmission cooling fans was seized by the pedestal. The apron ripped loose from the securing strip of perforated steel, and bent the fiberglass back about 10 inches, and cleanly separated it from the coach body, forming a bend with minimal damage to the paint and appearance of the fiberglass. I repaired it with pop rivets, and now it doesn't look too bad, (especially since we never look at it) My point is: if the apron had been more securely connected to the coach body, the damage could have been greater. So the glue joint probably saved the day in this case.

Have you all heard of the fellow who lost his glued rear apron while underway in at highway speeds? I really would not have wanted to have been in the vehicle following him.

By the way, when I consulted factory techs about the glue separation, their first and only response was "Do you realize that the coach is out of warranty now?" followed by "Take it to the dealer so it may be re-glued" (my dime)

We all remembrer what happened in the case of the Boston "Big Dig" when the slab of concrete glued to the ceiling of the tunnel separated and crushed the car, killing an occupant. Glue technology is very good, but not in all applications.

Just a few trivial observations.

Cheers.
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:27 PM   #20
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We have a 2007 Meridian and had thre samething
happen after 3 months.I drilled some holes in the sides,top and bottom and installed tappered sheet metal screws and counter sunk the surface(as the guy said you will need to "spacer the inside") as not to crack the fiber glass.Good luck on the repair.
Also had the rear bumper panel loose(my bad) and I used some glue from a friend in the body shop biz.I think it was 2057 glue,a two part type of expoy, it sets in 4 minutes and works great .DD1
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