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Old 11-29-2012, 12:24 PM   #1
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Peeling clearcoat on top edges

I just finished repainting the top surfaces on my Adventurer. I had previously posted an idea of simply sanding and re-applying the clear coat with a foam brush. Well, forget that idea.

The paint under the top coat on the top surfaces is very thin. They must have hired Danny Devito to paint the upper edges because it's nearly non-existent. When I attempted to sand the clear coat, the color coat came off immediately and I was down to the white jelcoat color.

The fact is that that you must repaint the entire surface with a base coat-clear coat application after putting on an epoxy primer. It's an awful job that requires climbing a step ladder over and over again, but at least it looks better.

To sum it up: The materials cost is about $250 to $300 for epoxy primer and base-coat clear-coat paints. Plus, of course, sand paper, masking tape and lots of cheap plastic tarps.

The job doesn't require a professional painter (that's why I did it) because the surface is very bumpy an uneven and could even be painted with a foam brush or bristle brush. I sprayed mine because of the metallic color. I didn't think I would be able to brush it on.

It's time consuming an requires three applications. Let the epoxy primer dry completely for a day or so before applying the color. It will be ready for clear-coating about as fast as you can get around the rig.

My Body Shop bids were $2,200 and $3,000. Wow! I can see why now that I have finished the job.

Oh yes. my two helpers were there every step of the way: Trial and Error.

Good luck
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:47 PM   #2
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cardiffman,
Outstanding report. I know, realize and understand your efforts, frustration, and HARD LABOR to accomplish this task. I too have painted many things in an effort to improve my skills, save money, (emphasis on saving money) and, hoping, as always, to get the job done right and, one time.

Ours is not too bad but, most likely like yours, it has sections of the clear coat, on the radius transition from the drip rail to the actual flat section of the roof that's starting to look ugly. None of which can be seen from the ground, only when I'm on the roof, which, is quite often due to the fact that I like to keep it clean up there.

Paint materials are expensive, without a doubt. I absolutely love painting, especially metallic. But, as we all know, it's the PREP that takes all the time, and, it's what makes or breaks the finished paint job. I'm not a pro painter, just a guy that's picked up a few guns and some skills over about 45 years or so.

It's good to know that the prep you did resulted in knowing the base coat is a thin, barely there, coat and, will require re-application prior to re-coating with clear. I too don't have the required scaffolding to be able to walk up and down on to do a whole section at a time. I too will be "UP and DOWN" a ladder a zillion times to do a job like this. It is what it is. Ours is a 36 Itasca Horizon with obviously, full body paint so, I figure about a hundred trips up and down a fully extended, "Little Giant' ladder. But, I've got the tools, the guns, the air supply, the place to do the work, what the heck, I'm not dead yet.

I figured, probably around the same price for my materials as yours. What really sucks is, this rot gut state of CA consistently imposes restrictions on materials on a daily basis. What we bought last year in terms of materials and supplies, is NO LONGER AVAILABLE! Now, you have to go to other, non familiar, possibly "Water based" paint and materials. That sucks.
Scott
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:45 PM   #3
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Hi Scott, you can still buy some non-voc paint supplies here in Nevada.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:03 AM   #4
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Hi Scott, you can still buy some non-voc paint supplies here in Nevada.
Ramzfan,
Yes Sir, I realize that. You CAN BUY EVERYTHING, that's illegal in CA, OUTSIDE THIS P.I.T.A. STATE!!!!!! A while ago, I was running out of my favorite glue for multiple surface to surface projects. It's this stuff here:

Original Contact Cement Gal. Weldwood Contact Cement 00273 | eBay

I went down to our local Home Depot and low and behold, it's not sold here in CA anymore. Yes, you can get the water base junk but, that's not what I wanted. So, on a trip, outside the air head state, I picked some up. It's getting worse and worse here. No wonder folks are leaving this state by the droves.
Scott
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:02 AM   #5
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Thanks for the post cardiffman. My '04 needs it too, but I've been procrastinating now for 2 yrs. I've got 3 colors up there on the roof, so it's going to be even more work/cost.

I wonder what 40 feet of scaffolding would cost to rent? Sure would help make the job a bit easier.

On a side note....
Ya, I'm ready to move out of CA too, .... for about 18 additional reasons. One of the gals in the church choir is trying to sell her house (good luck with that!). Her husband is already working a new job in Texas. Going to be a lot more of that happening.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:47 AM   #6
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Duner,
For projects just a tad shorter in height, I've devised a mini-version of scaffolding. I have a "Little Giant" ladder. I think it's the 12' version, can't remember (imagine that). What I do is break the two sections apart, and, one section automatically bends into an A-frame ladder and, the other section needs some attachments that clamp into the ends to make it also, a A-framed ladder.

Now, I've got two A-framed ladders, both pretty darn stable. I also have a two-by-twelve, about 10' long. I lay that on the top rungs of the two ladders and clamp it to the rungs of both ladders. See the picture? Now, I can do high up, (almost to the roof) like waxing and other stuff and, walk along about an 8' section, until that section is done with whatever I'm doing. Then, I get down, drag both ladders and plank, all in one piece, to the next section that needs whatever I'm doing.

It's crude but, it works. If you could get your hands on a larger version of that ladder, and the special attachments that make the second section, an A-framed ladder when the two are separated, and, a bit longer plank, you'd be in business. And, it's a great ladder to have around anyway. I've used it a zillion times for all kinds of purposes. When I open the whole thing up, it's about 14' high, plus or minus. I've used it that way for trimming my Palm trees, 'till they got too high, now I make a phone call and sit and watch it being done.
Scott
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:53 AM   #7
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Duner,
For projects just a tad shorter in height, I've devised a mini-version of scaffolding.......Scott
Ya,Scott, I think that's what I'm going to do. I've got a nice flat concrete pad where I park it so ladders would be stable. I had a shorter version for spray painting the trim & eves on the house. I'd need the plank about 7 ft high.

Take care,
Bill
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:54 PM   #8
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Here are a couple obvious tips that I overlooked: Be sure to use the blue masking tape, not the cheap stuff. I had to work an extra hour or two just to get the tape off. because I bought the cheap stuff. Daaaah

The whole project takes two or three days for sanding, masking,preparation, primer and drying time, then application, unmaking, etc.

I had to paint all of the upper section, above the windshield and the outside temperature and sun exposure was troublesome. I used the fastest drying reducer: around 70 degrees, but I found that the color and later the clear coat would dry and lay flat if exposed to the sun when I was spraying it. I had to wait until the afternoon when the temperature was around 70 and the sun was not overhead. I live in St. George, Utah were the sun always shines.

Base coat-Clear coat application is much more user friendly than the old type enamels. The base coat lays down flat and drys immediately. You just have to keep the gun evenly placed so the metallic will not look blotchy. Then, the clear coat. It's a bit more tricky to spray while getting it even without getting runs. Not to worry. When the clear coat drys completely you can sand the runs out by beginning with course (about 600) and eventually ending with 2000 grit just before polishing. The higher the grit, the less polishing you will need and the less chance of burning through.

Good luck.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Ramzfan,
Yes Sir, I realize that. You CAN BUY EVERYTHING, that's illegal in CA, OUTSIDE THIS P.I.T.A. STATE!!!!!! A while ago, I was running out of my favorite glue for multiple surface to surface projects. It's this stuff here:

Original Contact Cement Gal. Weldwood Contact Cement 00273 | eBay

I went down to our local Home Depot and low and behold, it's not sold here in CA anymore. Yes, you can get the water base junk but, that's not what I wanted. So, on a trip, outside the air head state, I picked some up. It's getting worse and worse here. No wonder folks are leaving this state by the droves.
Scott
Yes sir, that's why I left 25 years ago. Grew up in Newport Beach but it got so crowded, smoggy, liberal & the taxes got ridiculous, so I decided Nevada was a much friendlier place for my money.
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:57 AM   #10
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GREAT info on dealing with peeling clearcoat! That will really help me when I decide to tackle my paint issues.

BTW, I too am an ex-Californian like some others....for all the same reasons. We are a growing bunch, that's for sure. Northern Nevada is awesome....and California is about 10 miles or so down the freeway. California becomes a lot cheaper that way!!
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:44 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by HeapBigEngin View Post
GREAT info on dealing with peeling clearcoat! That will really help me when I decide to tackle my paint issues.

BTW, I too am an ex-Californian like some others....for all the same reasons. We are a growing bunch, that's for sure. Northern Nevada is awesome....and California is about 10 miles or so down the freeway. California becomes a lot cheaper that way!!
Heap Big Engin...it sounds a lot like we both live in or near Reno...? Where are you located?
Steve
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