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Old 06-08-2015, 04:10 PM   #1
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Oil change

How many of you Forza owners change your own oil and do you change all the filters such as the DEF and the crankcase filter on the back of the valve cover? Has anyone had any problems with the dash fan shutting off? If so, what was the fix? Did you know that if you turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and look inside the fender well on the right side, you will see two cables that you can pull to drain the air tanks?

Theo
2014 38R Forza
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Old 06-08-2015, 04:50 PM   #2
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Thanks for the info. Haven't had to change mine yet but will be doing it myself.
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:34 PM   #3
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Should be pulling the cables to remove moisture from the primary and secondary air tanks as part of your walk-around. In fact I do it as part of my air test.....(if your interested)

1. *SECURE THE VEHICLE - Set the park brake - Chock the wheels.

2. TEST THE LOW AIR WARNING DEVICE
Engine off, key on.
Air pressure is over 90 PSI
Pump the service brakes
Warning Device on at 65 PSI is good
Device on below 55 PSI vehicle is defective.

3. TEST AIR PRESSURE BUILD UP TIME.
Start Engine and run between 600-900 RPM
Reduce air pressure to 90 PSI
Time from 90 PSI to 120 PSI
Less than 30 seconds is good
More than 30 seconds vehicle is defective

4. CONFIRM AIR COMPRESSOR GOVERNOR SETTINGS
Build air pressure to maximum and note cut-out pressure
Cut-out must be between 120 PSI and 135 PSI
120 PSI is good
More than 135 PSI vehicle is defective.

Pump down pressure 20 to 30 PSI
Until compressor cuts-in
Cut-in should be @ 100 PSI
100 PSI is good
Defective if less than 90 PSI

5. TEST AIR LOSS RATE
Release spring brake
Apply service brake and shut engine off - key on.
Time for 1 minute.
Note air loss
1 or 2 PSI is good
Defective if more than 3 PSI
Spring Brake ON.

**REMOVE FRONT WHEEL CHOCK**

6. TEST SPRING BRAKE
Apply spring brake
Start engine, select drive.
See if spring brake holds
Spring brake holds - vehicle good
Defective if vehicle moves

7. DRAIN AIR TANKS
Shut off engine, key on. Proceed to drain cables.
Drain FRONT WET (supply) tank for 5-10 seconds
Go back to gauges, see if no change to PSI. = Wet tank gauge.
Drain 2nd valve for 5-10 seconds. FRONT DRY. - Look for oil, sludge, water.
Drain 3rd valve for 5-10 seconds. REAR DRY. - Look for oil, sludge, water.
If valves work - vehicle good
Vehicle defective if valves faulty
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:40 AM   #4
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I'm glad that u know the test procedure for the air brakes. The procedures are the same for CDL tests and I have a CDL license. I know these procedures very well because I have driven the big snow plows for over 20 years. These tests must be performed before the truck can leave the shop. Kind of wondering how many motorhome owners with air brakes perform those tests. The DEF filter will cost about $60 at Cummins. The DEF filter is located on the underside of the DEF tank. The DEF filter should be changed once a year or by mileage. The crank case filter is the same and runs about $40.
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:03 PM   #5
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I think we might be terrified to know how few people actually have a solid working knowledge of the safety systems on their units. Let alone be properly licensed to drive them.

This topic has been so beaten up over the years on this forum though....All we can do is our own personal part to be safe.

I do engine service on my Journey - but sorry I couldn't help with the Forza oil question!


Adam
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Hunter View Post
Should be pulling the cables to remove moisture from the primary and secondary air tanks as part of your walk-around. In fact I do it as part of my air test.....(if your interested)

1. *SECURE THE VEHICLE - Set the park brake - Chock the wheels.

2. TEST THE LOW AIR WARNING DEVICE
Engine off, key on.
Air pressure is over 90 PSI
Pump the service brakes
Warning Device on at 65 PSI is good
Device on below 55 PSI vehicle is defective.

3. TEST AIR PRESSURE BUILD UP TIME.
Start Engine and run between 600-900 RPM
Reduce air pressure to 90 PSI
Time from 90 PSI to 120 PSI
Less than 30 seconds is good
More than 30 seconds vehicle is defective

4. CONFIRM AIR COMPRESSOR GOVERNOR SETTINGS
Build air pressure to maximum and note cut-out pressure
Cut-out must be between 120 PSI and 135 PSI
120 PSI is good
More than 135 PSI vehicle is defective.

Pump down pressure 20 to 30 PSI
Until compressor cuts-in
Cut-in should be @ 100 PSI
100 PSI is good
Defective if less than 90 PSI

5. TEST AIR LOSS RATE
Release spring brake
Apply service brake and shut engine off - key on.
Time for 1 minute.
Note air loss
1 or 2 PSI is good
Defective if more than 3 PSI
Spring Brake ON.

**REMOVE FRONT WHEEL CHOCK**

6. TEST SPRING BRAKE
Apply spring brake
Start engine, select drive.
See if spring brake holds
Spring brake holds - vehicle good
Defective if vehicle moves

7. DRAIN AIR TANKS
Shut off engine, key on. Proceed to drain cables.
Drain FRONT WET (supply) tank for 5-10 seconds
Go back to gauges, see if no change to PSI. = Wet tank gauge.
Drain 2nd valve for 5-10 seconds. FRONT DRY. - Look for oil, sludge, water.
Drain 3rd valve for 5-10 seconds. REAR DRY. - Look for oil, sludge, water.
If valves work - vehicle good
Vehicle defective if valves faulty
Just reading this thread at random. We got our 1st coach and trying to gain as much info as possible. Somewhat familiar with air brakes but this test you wrote is a super good checklist ! Now what is the spring brake ?

Thanks again for sharing your experience !

Chuck
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:08 AM   #7
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Sorry Forzatm - Don't want to hyjack the thread but I will just provide this info for Chuck;


Most vehicle manufacturers combine the emergency braking system with a parking-brake system using spring brakes. Spring brakes are not air applied like service brakes. They apply when air pressure leaves the brake chamber and release when air pressure builds up in the chamber.

Chuck, if you want there are lots of videos on youtube that explain air brake systems and more to the point brake chambers. An air brake course is fairly quick to do as well then the air systems on your new coach will be old hat!

Thanks
Adam
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Old 06-11-2015, 08:56 AM   #8
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Thanks so much Adam for sharing your wisdom ! Now..the spring brake makes sense as i was wondering what kept the brakes set if pressure bleeds off and compressor not running.

I work on commercial aircraft so the only back-up when hyd. pressure fails is a air charged accumulator that will give me maybe 3-4 pumps on the brakes !!

Will add 'motorhome air brakes' to my You Tube video watching !!

You guys are right though....probably would be alarming to know how many people driving these 'air brake' coaches, know little about the systems !!!

Again thanks for the lesson before i get this rig on the road for a trip.

Chuck
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