Norcold Problem

["007"]

This RESET is for the Norcold if you are having problems.
The wires where they enter the chimney should be covered with the fiberglass wrap some times when people work on electric element they do not dress the wrap around the chimney as it was originally if so use some fiberglass tape to close the wrapping.

These fans should be mounted at the top of your 1200 4 door refrige they are part of the refrige unit not added by me or someone else. If not your going to have warm box temps and spoiled food.
You can place a temperary fan in lower vent opening pointed up thru the coils to get your box temps down where they should be. If you have only a 110 fan that will work also until you get to a shop for corrections.

[C&C R]

Don't know if our problem belongs here or not. We have had this problem before and a tech replaced that wire in the back that connects to the fins.
Our ref. keeps icing up and defrosting. First it was one side and we thought it might be a seal not working properly on that door. Now it's both sides.
The freezer was holding perfect, now the temp is getting out of the freeze zone. I have over $100 worth of meat in the freezer and don't want to lose it. Already had spoiled milk.
Jacked the temp up and almost to the max. Will be a month before we get back home.
What could be causing this problem again? Have to sop up water inside the ref and on the floor daily.

Carol

[steelheadbluesman]

Carol -- If you've read the thread, you know there are lot's of possibilities. If I were on the road, I would find a dealer nearby and get it done now, rather than sop water for the next month. With an '07 rig, you are under warranty for all parts and labor at any authorized repair shop and virtually all Winnebago service Dept's.

[C&C R]

We contacted our dealer. Said try running it on propane for a day or two until we get to an area where there is a dealer. That might do the trick.

We'll see.

Carol

[lajuene]

Just ordered this to fix the noco pita. I needed a new board anyway. This one allows you to do the reset from the key pad. The warranty I have may fix the board anyway but I wanted a spare for down the road. Of course this means the warranty card will work forever... 8-)
Here is the link to the new board for the Norcold 1200 series (I have the 1201LRIM):
NEW Dinosaur PCB replaces Norcold 621267, 621269, 621270, 621271 : A.S.A.P.

[wagonmaster2]

Originally Posted by DonGee

;Thank you Mr. Wizard, sorry I am so late with my follow up response. I have a model 1201. The #15, pin has been shorted to ground on several occassions by techs at various shops. I know now not to hit the on off button but just turn it off until I fix whatever caused the problem. The question remains is Norcold putting in a reset to fix this obvious flaw in their product.
Don, 2005 Itasca Horizon

Since we only have 2 chances before the frig locks up and #15 pin has to be shorted, I always wonder how hard its going to be finding what gave the "No Co" code in the first place. It doesn't give much chance for trial/error. Just 2 chances doesn't seem like much, Norcold must have been planning on this being a dealer repair - just more to stick it to the consumer.

Wagonmaster2

[lajuene]

With the new board installed my fridge is now working. At setting #5 I get freezer-20F, fridge-38F.

The problem I had was it worked in AC mode but not in LP mode. The burner flame was nice and blue and it ran fine but did not cool. After a while it would shut down with the NO CO code. I shorted out the #15pin and did it again after checking the level and burner and it still coded No CO.

I got the new board and installed it, pretty easy with photos and wire labelling to keep me straight and after 4 days on LP it is still going strong. It hasn't been too hot here lately though and I haven't seen the fans run yet. How often does the fan run? How do you check the fans to see if they are working?

["007"]

Eric if you have a hair dryer or space heater place in the vent opening blowing up through vent space with coils.
On a normal warm day you should hear your fans cycling of and on, on a hot day maybe on continuously.
You should hear the fans operate when the heat builds up in space.
Your freezer compartment should be colder than temp you posted.
It could be your fans are not working.
There have been some problems with the control thermistor for fans and it had to be changed also its been mention if power leads to fans are reversed the fans are not going to blow up and out the upper vent.

[num1dgh]

Originally Posted by Kazoo Tom

If it is any help to anyone, you can go to this site and scroll down to "service documents". If you know the model of your fridge, you can download the complete service manual from there.

THANK YOU for that link!! Very handy.

[lajuene]

Thanks for the hair dryer idea 007, it worked and both fans are running just fine. I turned up the setting in the fridge to 7 from 5 to see what temp I get in the freezer.

[lajuene]

I couldn't find the horn solenoid. Read all the posts I could find but nothing under the driver side looked like what I read about. Prolly let the dealer do it if I don't get anywhere with it.