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Old 03-18-2018, 03:07 PM   #1
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Navion rear tire pressure

New Navion owner here (2018 model). How on earth is one supposed to check the rear tire air pressure? Just took off the hub covers (not easy) and the valve stems are hard to get to. In fact, the outer tire valve stem actually points towards the center of the vehicle vice towards you. I donít even know if I can get my fingers in there to take off the cap. What is the trick?
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Old 03-18-2018, 09:45 PM   #2
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Dually Valves. Google is your friend.

Suggest using the pressures stated on the driver's door placard. No higher.
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Old 03-22-2018, 08:04 PM   #3
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Good call "Old Crows"! Went to Preston Auto & tire in La Mesa CA (Near San Diego) and they had the Dually valve set *just* for the Sprinter van type RV. 2 hours, $300, and now I can keep my hubcaps on and EASILY check air pressure. They agreed: don't put in what is on the tires (80 PSI), put in what it says on the door placard (61 PSI). Only problem I can see now is I can't rotate the tires (as the Mercedes-Benz manual recommends) without also changing the valve stems. SO...I guess I won't be rotating tires.
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Old 03-22-2018, 08:49 PM   #4
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What is on the tires is the MAXIMUM cold pressure that provides the maximum rated load for the tire. The pressure on the door card is what is needed to carry the load of the specific vehicle. I suggest you always go 5 PSI over that. You NEVER want to have less pressure than the door card when tires are cold, going 5 PSI over makes that less likely to happen. One way to simplify dual tire pressure management and to make sure inner and outer tire pressures always match, which makes the rear tires last longer, is to buy and install CROSSFIREs for your rear duals. Crossfire Dual Tire Pressure Equalization System
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:03 PM   #5
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Crossfire; interesting. I didn't see a price on the web site - do you know how much they cost? Seems like it is mostly for truckers.
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Old 03-23-2018, 05:44 AM   #6
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I bought these for our 2018 View ...

DL1SP13FR Chrome Duallyvalve Kit W/ Front Stems

There are several different versions, youíll have to be sure you get the set for your particular wheel type (round holes, oval holes, steel, aluminum, etc.). I had to trim the front wheel simulators so the front stems fit properly. Discount tire applied all six of my stems, $100 I think.

Good luck. Great modification!
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Old 03-23-2018, 04:32 PM   #7
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For what it is worth..... the Crossfire system has been around for awhile. Generally for big rigs. Crows like to keep things simple and avoid points of failure. It is a piece of cake to add/adjust air pressures with the extended valves. Simple.

Absolutely.... the PSI marked on the tire is the MAX Inflation Pressure. Not what you want.

The PSI recommendation on the door sill is for the MAX Gross Vehicle Weight (GVWR), in your case 11,030 lbs. Somewhere in the shiny labs in Stuttgart, Mother's engineers have cleverly worked out the correct psi for the Sprinter's GVWR. If you are a little lighter running, you can move down a PSI or three and still be OK.


For the best ride, handling and performance use the recommended 61 psi. Forget adding an additional 5 psi. Here's why.

Set your TPs cold and out of the sun. "Cold" means just not driven or at least not very far. So lets say it, the tire, is 50F (ambient morning) and you set 61 psi. As you drive the tires heat up ~ 1 PSI per 10 degrees F. It's now about 90F ambient, and you are on the road awhile. Now the tires temp has increased to around 110 F at the tread surface using an indirect IR thermometer. Quick math says the probably PSI is now 61+ (6x1) = 67ish PSI. (Yeh.... the Boyz from Stuttgart have sorted all this out.....)

Go to the Tire Rack website.... lots of info there about tire pressures.


For several decades, I'm an OLD Crow, I've used an IR indirect thermometer gun to measure all kinds of things. On the road, I use it to measure the tire temperatures across the tread when we stop for a break, fuel or water the pups. About three places, edges and center. Two things are important: the temperatures across the tread are reasonably even; and, the temperature ranges on all 6 tires are uniform. I.e., there is no tire running way hotter or colder than the others. Sort of tells you all is well.

A hot running tire would be an indicator of possible problems: low pressure, slow leak, puncture or ???? Time to investigate.

The other issue is looking at the readings across the tread. They should be reasonably uniform. An under inflated tire will have a markedly cooler center tread. An over inflated tire will be cooler at the edges. (Sort of mirroring the wear patterns of under/over inflated tires.)



A third simple test is to is to look at the dust pattern on the tire tread if you drive over gravel or on a dirt surface. If it's just about right PSI, you will have an even coating of dust over the tread surface. If it's underinflated.... heavy on the edges and light in the center. Over inflated: heavy in the center.... very little on the edges.


It's all 'old school'..... hope it helps...
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:16 PM   #8
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I have run our 15NJ with WGO supplied Continentals at 61PSI for 41K miles. About time to retire.

To check the air in your tires with the sims on or off use the WGO supplied cap remover.
Get a push pull valve gauge checker. You need to pull to check the outers and push to check the inners. There are probably extensions on the inners IIRC correctly. You don't need to remove those to check the tire pressure.

It is much easier to remove the entire "simulator" to check the pressure on the rears. Fronts are not an issue so no need to remove.
Use and carry a rubber mallet and pry bar to pop the sims off.
Eventually it is prudent to take the sims off and leave them off. Sooner or later you will loose one and they are expensive to replace. Eventually the little teeth that bite into the steel wheel don't do the job holding the sim in place.
You can keep them secure by using SS ties or even plastic zip ties are better than nothing. This becomes a PIA and eventually you will stack your sims in the garage until you sell the unit.
You might not look quite as fancy but your peace of mind will improve.

Do Not Put Metal Extensions on the rubber stems!! That's an accident waiting to happen.

Best move is to purchase Borg Dually kits from Your Tire Supply in CA.
You need to supply them with your model, year, hole type etc for the right kit.
$120 plus shipping for rears only.

To install these you have to remove the tires and replace the existing stems.

Putting the Borgs on introduces a possibility of making balancing a challenge.
Not always, but this is addressed in the fine print of the Kits.
One way to get around this is to use Equal Flexx Balance Beads instead of wheel weights. Your tire shop may carry the beads but make sure they use the right amount for your tire. In our case 215 85 R16 the right amount is 3 ounces per wheel/tire.
You can get this from yourtiresupply.com also. It's about $5 per wheel.
it helps to work with a tire store that is familiar with duallys.
I have heard stories where the stems were not installed properly. The installer doesn't follow directions. There is a strict procedure required to get the on right.

The Borg stems are compatible with TPMS. (Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems).
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