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Old 11-17-2018, 05:11 PM   #57
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Many RVers have purchased pre-fab cabinets from Lowes or Home Depot and installed in their RVs. Cheaper than OEM for sure.
That's what I did in my TT when I had to change out a base cabinet next to the entry door so the cabinet door was re-oriented 90 degrees so it wouldn't interfere with mounting a heater. If you were real picky, you might notice that the oak stain was a little different but, if you were real picky, you could probably fix that.
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Old 11-20-2018, 02:28 PM   #58
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Mud Flaps

So I decided that having no mud flaps offended my sensibilities, it just didnít seem right. Yesterday I installed a set of 24Ēx30Ē truck flaps picked up from a local truck stop chrome shop. Had to jack the rear to help with access for my drill motor but they fit ok with minor trimming. They seem kind of floppy so only time will tell if they have any great effect, other than restoring my sensibilities,....for the moment.
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:10 PM   #59
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I know for a fact that my replacement nightstands will be substantially more robust than OEM. Donít know about the Ď02 era but the Ď16 cabinetry is not very heavy duty (trying to be kind in describing). Yes, I know weight saving is important too.
Finally finished new homemade nightstand install today. Now we have drawers where there were non and gained 5.5Ē on each side of the bed. Threw out the king and installed a queen memory foam.
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Old 11-29-2018, 04:01 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Thundr56 View Post
Finally finished new homemade nightstand install today. Now we have drawers where there were non and gained 5.5Ē on each side of the bed. Threw out the king and installed a queen memory foam.
Looks great!
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Old 11-30-2018, 06:53 AM   #61
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Finally finished new homemade nightstand install today. Now we have drawers where there were non and gained 5.5Ē on each side of the bed. Threw out the king and installed a queen memory foam.
So professional looking. Great job and so very practical.
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Old 12-01-2018, 08:42 AM   #62
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Similarly, I installed a 2kW inverter behind a lower kitchen cabinet in our 2014 Sunstar,



I put up a back panel of 3/4" plywood secured to the wall with a dozen screws and a lot of Gorilla Glue.


Your cabinet likely weighs less, so you could get by with 1/4" ply, I bet.



Quote:
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May install a storage type medicine chest in the bathroom to replace the 26.5Ē square mirror thatís there now. It just seems to make sense as an easy mod. Iím sure the wall is not a good structure base for screws to hold it but maybe a combination of a few screws along with some industrial strength Velcro.
Anyone done this already? Comments?
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Old 12-01-2018, 08:30 PM   #63
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Similarly, I installed a 2kW inverter behind a lower kitchen cabinet in our 2014 Sunstar,



I put up a back panel of 3/4" plywood secured to the wall with a dozen screws and a lot of Gorilla Glue.


Your cabinet likely weighs less, so you could get by with 1/4" ply, I bet.
SLO - We have flip flopped on the cabinet, itís on the back burner for now but thatís a good suggestion to beef up the wall a bit.
Curious about your inverter project. Did the 1k fail, or you just needed more juice?
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Old 12-01-2018, 10:37 PM   #64
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SLO - We have flip flopped on the cabinet, itís on the back burner for now but thatís a good suggestion to beef up the wall a bit.
Curious about your inverter project. Did the 1k fail, or you just needed more juice?

We purchased this Sunstar as a trade-in at a dealer back in September. It didn't have an inverter at the time.


25 years ago or more, I installed an 800 watt Trace inverter in our '88 Suncruiser. I just intercepted one outlet circuit at the converter panel and wired the inverter in-line. It would run the 13" tube TV, VCR, and other smallish loads (shaver, curling iron, hair dryer, kitchen appliances, etc) fine. (I labeled every inverter outlet with a rub-on letter "I" so we knew which outlets to use.



The Sunstar's house batteries were shot, so I negotiated $250 off the sale price and applied that to a 100 AH Battle Born Li battery and Victron battery monitor, and added the inverter. This time I built my own 3 breaker box, used the microwave breaker to feed the inverter, and powered both outlet circuits and the microwave off the inverter. I upsized the inverter to handle the microwave with other loads, and plan to add a second Battle Born battery next year.



I did a lot of study and dismantling to find the dead space behind that cabinet back. It's nicely located right next to the stairwell where the batteries are, and the wall where the fuse/breaker panel is.
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Old 02-18-2019, 03:52 PM   #65
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2018 Vista 32YE Pantry install

The 32YE Vista with the 4 door refrigerator (the major of them have 4 doors) have an odd shaped cabinet to the right of the fridge, too deep to make good use of all the space conveniently. Since our old Fleetwood Pace Arrow had a slide out pantry, that's what my better half wanted in this space to store cans of food, making it easy to get too.

So with a lot of planning, measuring, and engineering, I figured out how to install this pantry with blind sliders that need to be aligned. It works great, but I now know why Winnebago didn't build the 32YE with a pantry at the factory. Took me about a week of spare time to complete.

For those crafty fabricators out there, the right wall of the cabinet required a 3/4" plywood sheet screwed to the stud where the original shelf was originally attached. This 3/4" plywood acts as a strong anchor for the pantry weight. There's a stud at the the top of the wall to screw the plywood to also. You can find it with a stud finder.

In addition to the 3/4 plywood, it needed another 3/4X4X27" spacer for each slide rail. I used 2 slide rails on the right, and one on the bottom, all of them 24" long, triple rail. The slide rails are 1/2" thick, so with the right side wall spacers (3/4" plywood + 3/4" X 4 runners for slide rails), this puts the pantry almost exactly in the middle of the cabinet, assuming a 5.5" wide shelf.

I'll let you figure out the slider alignment tricks. Too much to type.
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Old 02-18-2019, 06:47 PM   #66
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Nice work, John. I have a slide-out pantry in my 35U. I modified the cabinet holding it and the refrigerator to give me about 1.5" more "hallway" space for wheelchair access. This entailed re-installing and aligning the sliders. After several iterations they're still not perfect but I'm probably the only one who notices.
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:29 PM   #67
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From one old "woodchuck" to another, Nice Job!

Fair Winds and Following Seas
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:56 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Locke View Post
The 32YE Vista with the 4 door refrigerator (the major of them have 4 doors) have an odd shaped cabinet to the right of the fridge, too deep to make good use of all the space conveniently. Since our old Fleetwood Pace Arrow had a slide out pantry, that's what my better half wanted in this space to store cans of food, making it easy to get too.

So with a lot of planning, measuring, and engineering, I figured out how to install this pantry with blind sliders that need to be aligned. It works great, but I now know why Winnebago didn't build the 32YE with a pantry at the factory. Took me about a week of spare time to complete.

For those crafty fabricators out there, the right wall of the cabinet required a 3/4" plywood sheet screwed to the stud where the original shelf was originally attached. This 3/4" plywood acts as a strong anchor for the pantry weight. There's a stud at the the top of the wall to screw the plywood to also. You can find it with a stud finder.

In addition to the 3/4 plywood, it needed another 3/4X4X27" spacer for each slide rail. I used 2 slide rails on the right, and one on the bottom, all of them 24" long, triple rail. The slide rails are 1/2" thick, so with the right side wall spacers (3/4" plywood + 3/4" X 4 runners for slide rails), this puts the pantry almost exactly in the middle of the cabinet, assuming a 5.5" wide shelf.

I'll let you figure out the slider alignment tricks. Too much to type.
Job well done! Looks great and will serve its purpose for DW. What a good hubby you are.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:06 AM   #69
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Propane / 120 VAC Refrigerator on Inverter while traveling

Here is a mod I did so I could run my Norcold Propane / 120 VAC refrigerator off the inverter when traveling from place to place. It is a manual operated transfer switch to move the refrigerator outlet from it's own breaker fed circuit (normal) to another circuit in the RV that is fed by the inverter.

I have a 2 door Norcold and it's electric heater is 300 watts, the inverter draws around 30 amps DC when the fridge heater is running, which is supplied by the alternator when traveling with the switch set to "fridge on inverter" and the inverter turned on.

Be sure to put the manual toggle switch in a electrical box. In my Vista there was enough slack in the Romex going to the refrigerator outlet for this mod. I tied into a romex fed by inverter with the tap-in splice in an electrical box.

Be sure to use at least a 15 Amp DPDT toggle switch.



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Old 02-20-2019, 07:09 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
Here is a mod I did so I could run my Norcold Propane / 120 VAC refrigerator off the inverter when traveling from place to place. It is a manual operated transfer switch to move the refrigerator outlet from it's own breaker fed circuit (normal) to another circuit in the RV that is fed by the inverter.

I have a 2 door Norcold and it's electric heater is 300 watts, the inverter draws around 30 amps DC when the fridge heater is running, which is supplied by the alternator when traveling with the switch set to "fridge on inverter" and the inverter turned on.

Be sure to put the manual toggle switch in a electrical box. In my Vista there was enough slack in the Romex going to the refrigerator outlet for this mod. I tied into a romex fed by inverter with the tap-in splice in an electrical box.

Be sure to use at least a 15 Amp DPDT toggle switch.





That works! Good mod. Saves propane and allows the tank to be off when traveling.
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