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Old 07-13-2018, 09:33 AM   #15
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I'll be posting here soon. Just saving the thread. Removed the bedroom TV. Building a cabinet for DW to store sewing stuff in. Going out today to order new doors. Will post the project when complete.


Rick
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Old 07-13-2018, 02:01 PM   #16
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First thing first

To be honest, I started this project backwards. This story will explain why.
We have rarely used the bedroom TV. We were having work done on the slide lock at the factory in Junction City, OR. The tech told me what he went through to get to a screw in the drop ceiling side strip so I thought it would be prudent to remove the TV before he did any more damage. I had to return to have parts installed.

With the TV gone we found the room more open. Then I removed the mounting bracket. DW came up with the idea to utilize this area with a cabinet for her sewing stuff. When I started the project in earnest I was under the false impression that doors would be relatively easy to find. Well, let me tell you, they ARE NOT! (So much for "more open'.)
Here is where I found the closest match and by my design options: https://www.horizoncabinetdoor.com/index.php


I found out that the door width is limited in a single panel size. I was over the size limit so the doors will have two panels each. I must use the frame size I have built. While at the factory a leak was discovered in the slide roof caused by factory install screws that were too long. The vinyl ceiling was still full of water when I started working on this project so I have a small drain hole with a paper towel wick hanging out of it. The ceiling is slowly drying out. The doors and drawer front will be here in 4 to 6 weeks. Cost $220.67 with free shipping.


I have the left side panel and front frame made. I picked up the custom stain from the store today. When I am satisfied with the color depth I will finish it with a satin poly.
In my next post I will publish pictures.
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:39 PM   #17
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Project update

I am on my way to making this a reality. First I need to make a confession. I realized that when I placed the order for the doors I gave the wrong width measurement. This error may cost me a $35 cancellation even though I caught it within a few hours. We'll see tomorrow. I used the full width of the opening instead of the half width X2.
Here are some pictures:
I removed the TV, TV mount and cables. The power cable ran down to the lower equipment bay and over to the left side of the stand. I removed the two outlets and left the one in place on the stand side. The facade panel over the equipment port was held on with brad nails in each corner. I popped off with little effort. The rail was held on with 4 screws. The rail is pocket drilled. I removed the screws with a long square drive bit and reattached it on the bottom to finish the drawer receiver space.

The new side panel is a simple rectangle with 1/4" birch ply glued to it. The face styles and rails are 1 1/2" maple. I used a router for the bull nose edge. I used a pocket drill jig to prepare the styles for attachment to the rails. The left style has a 1/4" grove in it to receive the side panel.

The stain is not a great match but it works. I tried to have it mixed but the guy didn't have a good eye. This picture is only a dry run. I am going to do a little more stain concept and then poly with a satin.

The drawer is a simple box made from 1/2 cdx. Only thing I could get at the local HD in a 2x2 panel. I have a prestain that I am using and I will use this to seal the drawer.

I'll post again when the doors and hardware arrive.

Rick
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:58 PM   #18
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Wow, lookin' good, Rick.

I'm getting ready to order new captain's chairs for our RV from Bradd & Hall and I'm scared I'll make a mistake.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:13 AM   #19
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Wow, lookin' good, Rick.

I'm getting ready to order new captain's chairs for our RV from Bradd & Hall and I'm scared I'll make a mistake.

Wanted to pull mine off to deep clean under it. Couldn't figure out how to get to the nuts to hold them while removing the bolts. What do you have for a RV? Any light shedding on how to find the nuts?



Why are you replacing your chairs?
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Old 07-16-2018, 10:36 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Wanted to pull mine off to deep clean under it. Couldn't figure out how to get to the nuts to hold them while removing the bolts. What do you have for a RV? Any light shedding on how to find the nuts?



Why are you replacing your chairs?
Do you have Flexsteel chairs? Apparently there are 4 bolts that hold it onto a frame base on the pedestal. We haven't attempted to remove them yet but posts on iRV2 say "it's easy!!" So we'll see. I will be taking pics when we swap them, but it's going to take several weeks to get the chairs.

We have a 2012 Fleetwood Bounder that has the Halo Austin fake leather that has begun to shred. Apparently several of the RV manufacturers used that crap starting in 2009 or so. It looks great and is really soft, but begins to delaminate after a few years. We got estimates on reupholstery that were basically the same as buying new seats, so we decided to just order new.
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Old 07-17-2018, 07:22 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by SarahW View Post
Do you have Flexsteel chairs? Apparently there are 4 bolts that hold it onto a frame base on the pedestal. We haven't attempted to remove them yet but posts on iRV2 say "it's easy!!" So we'll see. I will be taking pics when we swap them, but it's going to take several weeks to get the chairs.

We have a 2012 Fleetwood Bounder that has the Halo Austin fake leather that has begun to shred. Apparently several of the RV manufacturers used that crap starting in 2009 or so. It looks great and is really soft, but begins to delaminate after a few years. We got estimates on reupholstery that were basically the same as buying new seats, so we decided to just order new.

Yes, Flexsteel. The bolts go into a plate recessed into a cutout in the floor (). No idea why they did it this way. I tried to remove the chair last year and found that the bolt I loosened just spun after that. I re-tightened it as best as I could. I have no idea where the nuts are located. Is the chair bolted to the plate and that is bolted to the frame?? Look ugly and collects dirt.


After the '05 rescission most of the RV manufactures that survived downgraded quality. As I understand it, some were not good before and became worse after. Winnebago went from great to bad, skipping poor on the way. Sad but mostly true. Even the factory service center went that route.


Can you choose pedestal height? I am on the short side. (Vertically declined). I am almost uncomfortable in the legs and thighs when driving. I would like a bit more vertical adjustment. I know my chair is what it is and I will not change it soon. I am just wondering if there are options.


Happy trails.
Rick
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:41 AM   #22
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Rick, we are using our existing pedestals so no unbolting from the floor. The 4 main bolts to the frame are underneath the skirt of the chair, and on ours they are easily accessible except for one. (And the nuts are also easy to get to.) Also, we do not have powered seats; just manual adjustments and cables for the swivel. If you have powered chairs you will have electrical connections to deal with.

As far as I know there are no adjustments to the pedestal height, but you might call Bradd & Hall or Flexsteel and see if they offer different heights. I have the same problem with height; I'm 5'3" and it is difficult for me to reach the pedals in our coach which makes for very uncomfortable driving.

I'm about to call and finalize the order for our chairs after much hand-wringing over color and fabric choices. I'm thinking of going with a tweed fabric instead of the vinyl, since we had a bad experience with the fake leather delaminating. But I'd really rather have the "leather." (I'm not paying for real leather in there!!)
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:46 AM   #23
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Nice work Rick & Melissa. The stain looks good in the photo but I know how difficult it is to match new stain to old, since you're dealing with both wood and stain differences.
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:23 PM   #24
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Nice work Rick & Melissa. The stain looks good in the photo but I know how difficult it is to match new stain to old, since you're dealing with both wood and stain differences.

Thanks, Bob. I am now waiting on the doors and drawer front to arrive. All the hardware finished arriving yesterday.


After I had the side and front mounted I discovered that the slide was not coming in. Found this out this morning when I was getting ready to wash the coach. Needed to bring the slide in for easy access. Well, don't yea know? The guy at the Winnebago factory service center in Junction City, OR routed the light wires over the top of the light bar instead of in it. That put strain on the connectors to the lock control. After putting the flag connector back on the micro switch and rerouting the light wires all was well again. Glad I found this out before the day we were going to leave.


Sometimes I think our coach is an orphanage for RV gremlins.
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Old 07-18-2018, 03:56 PM   #25
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I have RV gremlins as well! I can remember my dad, a B-29 pilot in WWII, and a career USAF officer thereafter, telling me about gremlins when I was a kid. I just looked them up on Wikipedia and found this:

"The term "gremlin" denoting a mischievous creature that sabotages aircraft originates in Royal Air Force (RAF) slang in the 1920s among the British pilots stationed in Malta, the Middle East, and India, with the earliest recorded printed use being in a poem published in the journal Aeroplane in Malta on 10 April 1929.[2][3] Later sources have sometimes claimed that the concept goes back to World War I, but there is no print evidence of this."
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:49 AM   #26
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I have RV gremlins as well! I can remember my dad, a B-29 pilot in WWII, and a career USAF officer thereafter, telling me about gremlins when I was a kid. I just looked them up on Wikipedia and found this:

"The term "gremlin" denoting a mischievous creature that sabotages aircraft originates in Royal Air Force (RAF) slang in the 1920s among the British pilots stationed in Malta, the Middle East, and India, with the earliest recorded printed use being in a poem published in the journal Aeroplane in Malta on 10 April 1929.[2][3] Later sources have sometimes claimed that the concept goes back to World War I, but there is no print evidence of this."

Fascinating!

My dad made the props for your dad's B-29.
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:17 AM   #27
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Fascinating!

My dad made the props for your dad's B-29.
Thanks to your dad, they did their job well and brought him safely home.
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:02 AM   #28
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I made a magnetic entry door "hold open" out of two 25lb pull magnets from Home Depot, total cost $6.48 + tax:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MASTER-M...6324/203613132

One is screwed to the door, magnet facing out. and the other is screwed to the MH wall with the case facing out and a 1/2" thick spacer between the magnet and the wall. I made the spacer out of 1/2" teak marine plywood but UV protected plastic would also work. Time will tell if the plated cases hold up to the weather. Make sure the magnets are oriented so they stick together, and don't pinch your fingers playing with them. Don't ask me how I know this.

I found that, if both cases faced out, the pull wasn't strong enough and the mounting screws interfered with each other. If both magnets faced out, the pull was too strong for a comfortable release.

So far it's worked great and is much easier to use than the stock clip-in holder. It's nice to be able to reach around and close the door with a sharp tug while standing in the doorway. I haven't tried it in gale force winds but there's always the stock hardware if you need to use it.
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