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Old 07-17-2018, 07:22 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by SarahW View Post
Do you have Flexsteel chairs? Apparently there are 4 bolts that hold it onto a frame base on the pedestal. We haven't attempted to remove them yet but posts on iRV2 say "it's easy!!" So we'll see. I will be taking pics when we swap them, but it's going to take several weeks to get the chairs.

We have a 2012 Fleetwood Bounder that has the Halo Austin fake leather that has begun to shred. Apparently several of the RV manufacturers used that crap starting in 2009 or so. It looks great and is really soft, but begins to delaminate after a few years. We got estimates on reupholstery that were basically the same as buying new seats, so we decided to just order new.

Yes, Flexsteel. The bolts go into a plate recessed into a cutout in the floor (). No idea why they did it this way. I tried to remove the chair last year and found that the bolt I loosened just spun after that. I re-tightened it as best as I could. I have no idea where the nuts are located. Is the chair bolted to the plate and that is bolted to the frame?? Look ugly and collects dirt.


After the '05 rescission most of the RV manufactures that survived downgraded quality. As I understand it, some were not good before and became worse after. Winnebago went from great to bad, skipping poor on the way. Sad but mostly true. Even the factory service center went that route.


Can you choose pedestal height? I am on the short side. (Vertically declined). I am almost uncomfortable in the legs and thighs when driving. I would like a bit more vertical adjustment. I know my chair is what it is and I will not change it soon. I am just wondering if there are options.


Happy trails.
Rick
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:41 AM   #22
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Rick, we are using our existing pedestals so no unbolting from the floor. The 4 main bolts to the frame are underneath the skirt of the chair, and on ours they are easily accessible except for one. (And the nuts are also easy to get to.) Also, we do not have powered seats; just manual adjustments and cables for the swivel. If you have powered chairs you will have electrical connections to deal with.

As far as I know there are no adjustments to the pedestal height, but you might call Bradd & Hall or Flexsteel and see if they offer different heights. I have the same problem with height; I'm 5'3" and it is difficult for me to reach the pedals in our coach which makes for very uncomfortable driving.

I'm about to call and finalize the order for our chairs after much hand-wringing over color and fabric choices. I'm thinking of going with a tweed fabric instead of the vinyl, since we had a bad experience with the fake leather delaminating. But I'd really rather have the "leather." (I'm not paying for real leather in there!!)
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:46 AM   #23
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Nice work Rick & Melissa. The stain looks good in the photo but I know how difficult it is to match new stain to old, since you're dealing with both wood and stain differences.
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:23 PM   #24
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Nice work Rick & Melissa. The stain looks good in the photo but I know how difficult it is to match new stain to old, since you're dealing with both wood and stain differences.

Thanks, Bob. I am now waiting on the doors and drawer front to arrive. All the hardware finished arriving yesterday.


After I had the side and front mounted I discovered that the slide was not coming in. Found this out this morning when I was getting ready to wash the coach. Needed to bring the slide in for easy access. Well, don't yea know? The guy at the Winnebago factory service center in Junction City, OR routed the light wires over the top of the light bar instead of in it. That put strain on the connectors to the lock control. After putting the flag connector back on the micro switch and rerouting the light wires all was well again. Glad I found this out before the day we were going to leave.


Sometimes I think our coach is an orphanage for RV gremlins.
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Old 07-18-2018, 03:56 PM   #25
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I have RV gremlins as well! I can remember my dad, a B-29 pilot in WWII, and a career USAF officer thereafter, telling me about gremlins when I was a kid. I just looked them up on Wikipedia and found this:

"The term "gremlin" denoting a mischievous creature that sabotages aircraft originates in Royal Air Force (RAF) slang in the 1920s among the British pilots stationed in Malta, the Middle East, and India, with the earliest recorded printed use being in a poem published in the journal Aeroplane in Malta on 10 April 1929.[2][3] Later sources have sometimes claimed that the concept goes back to World War I, but there is no print evidence of this."
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:49 AM   #26
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I have RV gremlins as well! I can remember my dad, a B-29 pilot in WWII, and a career USAF officer thereafter, telling me about gremlins when I was a kid. I just looked them up on Wikipedia and found this:

"The term "gremlin" denoting a mischievous creature that sabotages aircraft originates in Royal Air Force (RAF) slang in the 1920s among the British pilots stationed in Malta, the Middle East, and India, with the earliest recorded printed use being in a poem published in the journal Aeroplane in Malta on 10 April 1929.[2][3] Later sources have sometimes claimed that the concept goes back to World War I, but there is no print evidence of this."

Fascinating!

My dad made the props for your dad's B-29.
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:17 AM   #27
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Fascinating!

My dad made the props for your dad's B-29.
Thanks to your dad, they did their job well and brought him safely home.
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:02 AM   #28
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I made a magnetic entry door "hold open" out of two 25lb pull magnets from Home Depot, total cost $6.48 + tax:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MASTER-M...6324/203613132

One is screwed to the door, magnet facing out. and the other is screwed to the MH wall with the case facing out and a 1/2" thick spacer between the magnet and the wall. I made the spacer out of 1/2" teak marine plywood but UV protected plastic would also work. Time will tell if the plated cases hold up to the weather. Make sure the magnets are oriented so they stick together, and don't pinch your fingers playing with them. Don't ask me how I know this.

I found that, if both cases faced out, the pull wasn't strong enough and the mounting screws interfered with each other. If both magnets faced out, the pull was too strong for a comfortable release.

So far it's worked great and is much easier to use than the stock clip-in holder. It's nice to be able to reach around and close the door with a sharp tug while standing in the doorway. I haven't tried it in gale force winds but there's always the stock hardware if you need to use it.
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Old 07-20-2018, 01:50 PM   #29
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Good idea Bob - I may have to steal that one.
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:17 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by BobC View Post
I made a magnetic entry door "hold open" out of two 25lb pull magnets from Home Depot, total cost $6.48 + tax:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MASTER-M...6324/203613132

One is screwed to the door, magnet facing out. and the other is screwed to the MH wall with the case facing out and a 1/2" thick spacer between the magnet and the wall. I made the spacer out of 1/2" teak marine plywood but UV protected plastic would also work. Time will tell if the plated cases hold up to the weather. Make sure the magnets are oriented so they stick together, and don't pinch your fingers playing with them. Don't ask me how I know this.

I found that, if both cases faced out, the pull wasn't strong enough and the mounting screws interfered with each other. If both magnets faced out, the pull was too strong for a comfortable release.

So far it's worked great and is much easier to use than the stock clip-in holder. It's nice to be able to reach around and close the door with a sharp tug while standing in the doorway. I haven't tried it in gale force winds but there's always the stock hardware if you need to use it.

Great idea! Won't work for us with 90* swing doors, unfortunately. We are always coming up with new ways to keep them open.

Are you shore you want your door open in a gale wind? Gets a bit breezy in the rig. Whoops. There goes the dog!
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:21 AM   #31
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you guys are masters!
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:38 AM   #32
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Removable entrance door screen

Over the years I have seen several posts by folks wanting removable entrance door screens. I guess, in years past, one door manufacturer had a door with a screen that would slide down. I don't recall seeing any solutions.

I have wanted to loose the distraction of the screen, when I am driving, since the coach was new to me. I finely bit the bullet and did the mod. The screen needed replacement anyway so now was the time.

My design is simple enough. I used 1" bar stock on the outside of the door as a retainer for the new screen. I used screen frame from HD to make the new lite and put a sheer screen material into it.
Making the screen frame was not a problem. The corner pieces slip into the frame. You simple subtract the frame corners from the overall length of the side.
Because the frame material was brown I sprayed it black.
Putting the screening material onto the frame proved to be a challenge. It took 3 tries to get it good. Not as good as I wanted, but acceptable.

The frame is so flimsy that it flexes together, side moving toward opposite, causing the frame to twist and go out of square.
Solution: Screw 1/4" (luan in my case) in each corner to your flat work deck and strips in the center. This forms a solid barrier for the frame to retain it's shape against. Don't over stretch the screening material when pressing the rubber chime into the retaining channels. I also used a center bar to hold the left and right sides of the screen separated more securely. If I had been more careful installing the screen material I may not have had to use this.

For the fixed retainer frame, I left 1/2" of the bar width exposed in the window opening. I used VHB tape to hold the frame lengths onto the screen door and felt on the exposed face. I also used felt on the screen. Each is 1/2" wide and laid side by side on the bar perfectly.

The screen is held in place with 4 screen retainers: one near each corner. (I need to paint the screws black.)
Note: When installing the retaining clips, place the clip vertically at the edge of the screen. I used masking tape in the area I was to drill to make marking the door easier.


Some of the materials I got through Amazon, like the tapes and the clips.


Screen Door Parts List

J.V. Converting ACF-06/BLK05833 JVCC ACF-06 Acrylic Craft Felt Tape: 1/2" x 25 ft, black
3M VHB Tape 4929, 0.5 in width x 5 yd length (1 Roll)
Prime-Line Products PL 7906 Flush Screen Clips with Screws (Pack of 12), Plastic Black
4 ea 1” x 36” x 1/8” bar aluminum
2 ea 5/16” x 84” aluminum screen frame
Pack of screen frame corners
Pack of cross bar adapters
Black spray paint
#6 x 3/8” sheet metal screws
36” x 84” sheer black screen


I have a few more pictures but this is all I'm allowed to post now. Let me know if you need more detail.
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Old 07-24-2018, 04:26 PM   #33
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Rick, this one took me a while to figure out the initial problem until I realized that you had a Diesel pusher. For the life of me I couldn't understand why the screen was an issue while driving.
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Old 07-24-2018, 07:26 PM   #34
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View Drawer manual locks

I have a 2017 View. The drawers below the range keep popping open while driving. Sometime they go right through the slide locks and end up on the floor. Fixed it before something breaks. Here is a picture.
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:41 AM   #35
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I have a 2017 View. The drawers below the range keep popping open while driving. Sometime they go right through the slide locks and end up on the floor. Fixed it before something breaks. Here is a picture.
What did you add?
The locks on my drawers come in two flavors. Regular and heavy duty.
https://smile.amazon.com/CampN-Grabb...+catches&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Grabber-Cat...es+and+catches
These look the same but the 10# unit is larger than the 5#. I have not had a problem with the 10# one. T have had many of the 5# leg part of the system break.
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:42 AM   #36
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Rick, this one took me a while to figure out the initial problem until I realized that you had a Diesel pusher. For the life of me I couldn't understand why the screen was an issue while driving.
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:17 AM   #37
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WiFi Thermostat Conversion from TrueAir

Hello Everyone,
Thought this might help some people from doing a lot of leg work to get rid of their TrueAir thermostat and replace it with a WiFi enabled modern thermostat.

My wife and i are new to Winnebago but not to RVing as we have done that for a long time. Just purchase our first coach and with retirement around the corner we have a spot in Eastern Florida for the winter months. That being said I really like to know what is happening when I'm not at the coach location so I wanted a way to monitor the temperature, humidity, etc in the coach while we were not there. Thinking it would be great to have a smart thermostat I didn't realize that none where made to take the TrueAir out and do a conversion.

As I have been a contractor for 40 years I just had to come up with a way. Talked to Winnebago but they had no solution. Then comes the leg work.

Well I have converted the TrueAir to an Ecobee SI with full control over heat and ac from anywhere with internet access or via an app on my phone. I have pictures of the install and am now working on detailed instructions which I should have in a few weeks and will post on our website. Anyone interested please let me know Hope this helps others
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:13 AM   #38
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Hello Everyone,
Thought this might help some people from doing a lot of leg work to get rid of their TrueAir thermostat and replace it with a WiFi enabled modern thermostat.

My wife and i are new to Winnebago but not to RVing as we have done that for a long time. Just purchase our first coach and with retirement around the corner we have a spot in Eastern Florida for the winter months. That being said I really like to know what is happening when I'm not at the coach location so I wanted a way to monitor the temperature, humidity, etc in the coach while we were not there. Thinking it would be great to have a smart thermostat I didn't realize that none where made to take the TrueAir out and do a conversion.

As I have been a contractor for 40 years I just had to come up with a way. Talked to Winnebago but they had no solution. Then comes the leg work.

Well I have converted the TrueAir to an Ecobee SI with full control over heat and ac from anywhere with internet access or via an app on my phone. I have pictures of the install and am now working on detailed instructions which I should have in a few weeks and will post on our website. Anyone interested please let me know Hope this helps others
Attachment 170019[/ATTACH]
I may be interested but for a different reason.
In the winter humidity buildup is a problem. We have a small dehumidifier running all the time but it is only a band-aid when the humidity is really high. I would like to have separate heat and cool control over each of my 2 zones separately. One zone could then be used as a dehumidifier when the other is heating. Sounds like a defeating purpose but I think it could work. Would your system do that?

Another problem many of us have is the "00" gremlin in the thermostat window. When this locks in the thermostat is useless and its fuse must be removed for a period of time. The main cause of this problem is noise in the DC. One of the greatest causers of interference, in my experience, is LED lighting. I retrofitted my rig and then started to notice the problem. It was True-Air support who put me on to the LED problem. I have had to replace several. Is your thermostat setup prone to DC line noise?
In any case, thanks for doing the leg work on this. I know many folks out there will benefit greatly. Especially those with pets.
Rick
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Old 07-28-2018, 07:23 AM   #39
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Rick
I have not tested the new system enough to find out about an interference with the LED's
This thermostat is really supposed to use 24 Volt AC current as it's power supply which would be coming from a transformer on a conventional HVAC system in your home. But in theory the thermostat will operate with no problems on 12 Volt DC making it suitable for the RV. Ecobee has a thermostat which is an upgrade from the SI that you can power with a 12 Volt DC power adapter but it's over double the price of the SI but really they are using the same board consequently the SI will power with the 12 Volts. Ecobee wants to sell the more expensive one of course.
As for your 2 zones the way this is working is with 2 heat and 2 cool but you need all of that for anyone with the basement heat pump, gas heat, dual compressor unit like we have in our coach. It does have the ability for the 2 heat and 2 cool but I'm not familiar with your unit.
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Old 08-06-2018, 04:37 PM   #40
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Review of my upgrades

We have been in this coach just over 5 years now. I started thinking about what I have done (and in the process of) since we moved in. I think I have a pretty good list of things (I can remember).
The one mod I did was for the towed. In 2014 we bought a 2014 Honda CR-V. At the time I didn't realize it was the last year the CR-V could be towed 4 down. I had been hulling a Sicion xA around on a tow dolly since I first went on the road in '05. The car was fantastic. The tow dolly was nothing but a major headache.

I heard about the Air Force One breaking system on one of the forums. I looked into it and was impressed. Plug and play after initial install. Now, that is for me! I put diodes to the tail break lights so I could use the coach signals. But the AF1 remote LED strip mounted someplace where you could see it in the rear camera just wasn't cutting the mustard.
A fellow RVer on the forum suggested a key FOB transmitter and receiver set, modified a bit, to operate the AF1 supplied LED and locate it on the RV dash. (https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_4ujtrakx9j_e) The FOB button is shorted and the battery replaced with leads connected to the break switch. The receiver is powered via a DC plug in a DC accessory outlet. The NO contacts of the receiver are wired to the LED strip and the common is wired to the 12V source. Works great. The air hose got disconnected on the car one day. This told me that I had no towed breaks.

The coach pulls to the right a bit. The Blue Ox TruCenter helps very much with that.
The ride was harsh. I replace the shocks with Bilstein's. Great improvement!
The tires were starting to crack after only about 3 to 4 years of service. I put Continental steer tires on the front (great handling... too much $$$) and Toyo's on the rear the following year. The original tires were required, by coach actual weight, to run at max PSI cold. Too little tire for the coach. New tires have head room.
Added a pegboard to one small bay wall to hang some tools from.
Added a catch-all box shelf to the back of the sink door.
Installed LED's from 4M Products. I have not been pleased with them because many have failed and several interfere with the thermostat causing the '00' error and lockup problem.
Installed a LED strip under the patio awning. Got a cheap one. Can't use. Interferes with the thermostat.
Change to 10W-30 Royal Purple oil in place of the 15W-40 most truckers use. A bit better fuel mileage and quicker start lubing. Last oil test came back with great reviews from Blackstone. I am extending oil changes.
One mod I didn't like having to do was adding a flat bar of aluminum to the living room slide roof to catch the mounting screws for the full length cabinet. The left side had detached and pushed the valance down. That one ranks up there with dumb engineering practice. The cabinet was supposed to stay attached to the slide ceiling with screws mounted into 1/16" aluminum and 1/4" luan. I don't think so. DW might have compounded the issue early on with storing her cooking magazines up there. Heavy. But even so. No square tubing to mount to?

And lastly, I just got the stain for my earlier post of converting the bedroom TV spot to a cabinet. Hope to finish this project this week and publish the finished project. I'll be glad to get back on the road at the end of the month. As you can tell, I am really board today!
Happy trails all,
Rick


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